Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Good to know there's DIY options. I thought they needed an HVAC tech 100% for any charging of the system.

Will look into it.

The cottage does have ducting, but no AC. We had one in the basement for many years but ended up throwing it out as it was for the old freon (R134?) that is no longer legal so we tossed it.

Second question:

Currently have a LARGE 10" Bosch Table Saw with gravity stand. It's great for what it is...but too big and heavy for normal use.

Recommendations for a smaller portable one? I very rarely need to cut 4x8 plywood sheets (which is a pain with the Bosch, but will need something smaller for the cottage when we start up there.
Ducting for A/C is larger than ducting for heat only. I don't know what the cottage ductwork was designed for. While is it common in the US, it is rare here to have a mini-split with a coil in ductwork. If you could find one here, a coil in the ductwork and head in the living room would probably work well as that lowers the load and airflow required for the ductwork.

For portable table saws, I like Dewalt as their rack and pinion fence is quite accurate. I don't know about weight compared to the Bosch but I carry it down a ladder from storage. Your gravity Stand is handy but very heavy.
 
Ducting for A/C is larger than ducting for heat only. I don't know what the cottage ductwork was designed for. While is it common in the US, it is rare here to have a mini-split with a coil in ductwork. If you could find one here, a coil in the ductwork and head in the living room would probably work well as that lowers the load and airflow required for the ductwork.

For portable table saws, I like Dewalt as their rack and pinion fence is quite accurate. I don't know about weight compared to the Bosch but I carry it down a ladder from storage. Your gravity Stand is handy but very heavy.
You can get ducted air handlers for small houses. They don’t mount into the furnace but will deliver decent flow to a few rooms. If you get a 2 zone mini, put one come in the biggest common area, then the air handler in the attic for three bedrooms. Or Cold air falls, so the basement will stay cool.

 
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You can get ducted air handlers for small houses. They don’t mount into the furnace but will deliver decent flow to 2-3 rooms. If you get a 2 zone mini, put one come in the biggest common area, then the air handler in the attic for three bedrooms. Cold air falls, so the basement will stay cool.

In his case, basement is atypical. No passage between main floor and basement without going outside. The ductwork does have vents into the basement but no intentional returns (just unsealed connections that probably work). Cycling fan may be sufficient but in that cottage, gravity alone won't help the basement.
 
In his case, basement is atypical. No passage between main floor and basement without going outside. The ductwork does have vents into the basement but no intentional returns (just unsealed connections that probably work). Cycling fan may be sufficient but in that cottage, gravity alone won't help the basement.
Floor grate would do the trick.
 
You can get ducted air handlers for small houses. They don’t mount into the furnace but will deliver decent flow to a few rooms. If you get a 2 zone mini, put one come in the biggest common area, then the air handler in the attic for three bedrooms. Or Cold air falls, so the basement will stay cool.

Wow never even knew this existed….need to look further into this.
 
Good to know there's DIY options. I thought they needed an HVAC tech 100% for any charging of the system.

Will look into it.

The cottage does have ducting, but no AC. We had one in the basement for many years but ended up throwing it out as it was for the old freon (R134?) that is no longer legal so we tossed it.

Second question:

Currently have a LARGE 10" Bosch Table Saw with gravity stand. It's great for what it is...but too big and heavy for normal use.

Recommendations for a smaller portable one? I very rarely need to cut 4x8 plywood sheets (which is a pain with the Bosch, but will need something smaller for the cottage when we start up there.

Not any more. Many mini splits come in kits with pre-charged lines now. As for coverage, the kits are getting cheap enough that you can install multiple units and come out ahead.


24k BTU and $1400.

You need space on your breaker panel for these. The better units are 220V but if you go lower BTU you can get 110v. If you need circuit space you can do a pony panel.

If you want the full warranty then these things are supposed to be professionally installed but at $1400 if it lasts a few years you can just replace it and likely come out ahead of a central AC unit.

Bonus…they can heat the place too.

Our mini split that was installed last year is great. Very glad we went this route.
 
Not any more. Many mini splits come in kits with pre-charged lines now. As for coverage, the kits are getting cheap enough that you can install multiple units and come out ahead.


24k BTU and $1400.

You need space on your breaker panel for these. The better units are 220V but if you go lower BTU you can get 110v. If you need circuit space you can do a pony panel.

If you want the full warranty then these things are supposed to be professionally installed but at $1400 if it lasts a few years you can just replace it and likely come out ahead of a central AC unit.

Bonus…they can heat the place too.

Our mini split that was installed last year is great. Very glad we went this route.
That's awesome thank you!

First thing that will be installed at the cottage is a new 100A panel as the 60A isn't enough for the cottage as is. I have the panel, just need to find the time and talk to a good GTAMer here about installation and when it can be done (and for how much).

I know where I want it, what I want, and just a matter of getting the thing moving.

I also don't want to overwhelm myself but the order will start with panel, then joist rim insulation. The lights on the main floor need to be upgraded, but that's not an urgent need (probably some fan LED units to help move air).

Basement will be with 1" rigid insulation, then framing, and another 1" in b/w the studs for an R10 value. Debating on laying it all over the floor or just use the bubble that @Scuba Steve mentioned many pages ago, with flooring directly above it. Basement ceiling height is an issue, so don't want to reduce it much more than I really have to.
 
That's awesome thank you!

First thing that will be installed at the cottage is a new 100A panel as the 60A isn't enough for the cottage as is. I have the panel, just need to find the time and talk to a good GTAMer here about installation and when it can be done (and for how much).

I know where I want it, what I want, and just a matter of getting the thing moving.

I also don't want to overwhelm myself but the order will start with panel, then joist rim insulation. The lights on the main floor need to be upgraded, but that's not an urgent need (probably some fan LED units to help move air).

Basement will be with 1" rigid insulation, then framing, and another 1" in b/w the studs for an R10 value. Debating on laying it all over the floor or just use the bubble that @Scuba Steve mentioned many pages ago, with flooring directly above it. Basement ceiling height is an issue, so don't want to reduce it much more than I really have to.

If you don’t need to cut any of the lines (people just loop the excess if doing a self install) then the process is cut a small hole (it’s smaller than you think) to run the lines from the head unit. Install the head unit and run the lines outside. Install the condenser unit either on a stand or a shelf attached to the wall. Connect the lines. Run a weatherproof electrical cut off fuse box (that’s code I believe) from the panel and run the power from that to the condenser unit.

Extras are the shelf/stand, electrical supplies and shroud for the lines (which are weirdly expensive). You don’t necessarily need the shroud but it makes things look neat. It’s an extra few hundred bucks.

We paid to have our unit installed and they were a great company to deal with and I got a name brand high end unit but if I was doing it again I think I would pay an electrician to do the electrical work and connect up one of the cheaper units. Once the fuse panel and connections are there you can just remove and replace whenever you like.

People do this all day every day in tropical countries and have done for years such that an install costs very little. The HVAC industry here have mostly steered everyone away or charge an arm and a leg for the things.
 
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