Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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GreyGhost said:
You might get 10 dB improvement at best (impact sounds half as loud). Resilient channels above the drywall would be cheaper with a bigger improvement but obviously that would suck to do with tenants already there. I'd probably go with QT4010 if I was doing it on top and didn't have much height. Sonopanx or QT will both be better than the thin foam crap they pretend is IIC70. For footfalls, weight and deflection are your friends. If you want to make a huge difference, float Gypcrete over a resilient layer and it will be magically better but it will cost you a few inches and most people are unwilling/unable to give up that much height.


Normally ceiling board would go up before wall and that gap would be a labyrinth from above. You could lay a drywall scab over the gap and or acoustic cauking that would block the path. It would require cutting a strip from subfloor to get access to every cavity though and then put the strip back sealed with acoustic caulking (which makes a hell of a mess).

Insulation doesn't need to completely fill every cavity. 90% is good enough. It's not ideal to have gaps like your picture but assuming that each joist cavity is mostly filled, I wouldn't waste a ton of time and money trying to get to 100%. You could drill some holes and blow in insulation. That would help and be minimally annoying but it's up to you.
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Looks like qt 4010 needs thinset on top but you can install flooring directly on top of 4005? Am I reading the specs correctly?
 
Scuba Steve said:
Don't do that insulate the basement walls or you will have a mould issue keep the basement warm to avoid issues.

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So you’re saying just the walls and floor? And keep the space in between floors without insulation?
 
So I made $644.75 bucks at the scrapper today.

Over the weekend I started to pick away at the mess in the garage .
I had about 20-25 computers of various sizes. About 200 lbs of ethernet and other wire and 1 UPS.

Too bad that some of it sat there for 2 years accumulating value dust.


I was expecting around $200 maybe. so I'm impressed with the $644. Especially that I was just going to drive the e-waste to a ReStore or other e-waste collection place.
 
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Alrighty then...learn something new every day! And here I was going to buy a ton of BATT and insulate b/w the basement -> main floor.
 
Scuba Steve said:
Don't do that insulate the basement walls or you will have a mould issue keep the basement warm to avoid issues.

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That’s the right idea, heat loss is primarily thru the walls and unsealed windows and doors. insulating the floor will improve comfort, insulating basement walls reduces heating costs, improves comfort, and makes the downstairs liveable.
 
Scuba Steve said:
Spray foam in the headers will also make a huge difference.

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Only do that if you’re gonna drywall the ceiling and walls right away. Any spray foam in a basement requires fire protection, either totally enclosed with drywall or if left open or behind a suspended ceiling it has to be Intumescent spray coated ($$$).

Fire protection of exposed foam anywhere except an attic or crawl space is non-negotiable with inspectors, fire dept and your insurer.
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