Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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I built and installed two new gates to replace the sagging ones. I just have to apply some end-cut sealant.

Mine's the curvaceous one.
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The next major project is replacing the cedar hedge across the back of the property. A discussion with the neighbour on the other side has opened up some options.

He already has cedar on three sides of his yard and wants a fence to break things up. I don't want to see a fence so will go ahead with the hedge on my side.

He sees a fence and I see a hedge, all good. Some shared input reduces the extent and therefore costs. If he pays for his fence on his property, I'll pay for the hedge on mine.

I've got pricing on the R&R of the hedge but have no idea of the cost of a six-foot high fence, PT or cedar. Comments for about 40 feet long?

Also on the prewinter list is painting a few exterior windows. Scrape, sand, prime and finish coat. The joy of home ownership.
 
GreyGhost said:
If it is a leak, it should be pretty obvious on the underside of the deck. I'd probably put a sprinkler on the roof and ensure there was nothing coming in prior to spray foam installation. You may not have the time to do that though.
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Looks like a leak, maybe more than one, not huge but bad enough No idea why we only saw issues in the summer but maybe the batts dried out when there was little humidity in the winter/end of summer and soaked the water up, in the summer with high humidity they were saturated along with condensation and the water came through? There was also condensation too so who knows. They also got rid of an old bees nest and some dead mice. They also found out that the continuation of the ceiling inside a closet wasn’t insulated at all.

Plans have changed. Drying the ceiling out with industrial fans and a huge dehumidifier. Getting a quote for a peaked roof. Need an engineer and building permits. The idea is to go ahead with the spray foam insulation, keep the flat roof. Put a ridge line down the middle of it and add a peak with soffits and vents. That's quite a bit cheaper than ripping off the flat roof and installing a proper attic space. The new roof above the existing flat roof will be fully ventilated and the spray foam above the ceiling will be a very good thermal barrier.

I've been up on the roof all morning putting bitumen patch compound down every seam with seaming tape. I spread it out wider where the plywood underside was wettest.

Time to open the pocket book.
 
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JC99 said:
Looks like a leak, maybe more than one, not huge but bad enough No idea why we only saw issues in the summer but maybe the bats dried out when there was little humidity in the winter/end of summer and soaked the water up, in the summer with high humidity they were saturated along with condensation and the water came through? There was also condensation too so who knows. They also got rid of an old bees nest and some dead mice. They also found out that the continuation of the ceiling inside a closet wasn’t insulated at all.

Plans have changed. Drying the ceiling out with industrial fans and a huge dehumidifier. Getting a quote for a peaked roof. Need an engineer and building permits. The idea is to go ahead with the spray foam insulation, keep the flat roof. Put a ridge line down the middle of it and add a peak with soffits and vents. That's quite a bit cheaper than ripping off the flat roof and installing a proper attic space. The new roof above the existing flat roof will be fully ventilated and the spray foam above the ceiling will be a very good thermal barrier.

I've been up on the roof all morning putting bitumen patch compound down every seam with seaming tape. I spread it out wider where the plywood underside was wettest.

Time to open the pocket book.
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You might need permits, but you don't need an engineer. If you buy trusses (usually cheapest and best), the truss company stamps your drawings. If you stick frame (heavier on labour) your carpenter will know how to do it to code.

Another option is to keep it simple with a single slope instead of a peak. Fast and easy to frame, works great up to 16' spans, and if you face the high point to the front of the house you can use forever sheet metal roofing.
 
Mad Mike said:
You might need permits, but you don't need an engineer. If you buy trusses (usually cheapest and best), the truss company stamps your drawings. If you stick frame (heavier on labour) your carpenter will know how to do it to code.

Another option is to keep it simple with a single slope instead of a peak. Fast and easy to frame, works great up to 16' spans, and if you face the high point to the front of the house you can use forever sheet metal roofing.
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I don’t know if it makes a difference but the roof is not a normal shape. I'll post some pics.
 
Weird shape. Second photo shows a bit of the tie in to the existing sloped roof. The stripes are what I did this morning to the seams.
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The wettest plywood was in-between the 3rd and 4th seam from the leading edge of the roof. That's a low point on this particular roof and where we get pooling water. The stains on the plywood indicate that it isn't a huge area. There was staining at one edge where we get an ice dam at times and opposite at a point where I can see daylight from inside the room which is a bit disconcerting. That point seems to be from an edge panel that was bulging out a bit from an old satellite cable under it that looks like it was installed pretty shoddily.
 
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I built this generator sound box this morning using spare wood I had laying around. The top is angled to allow snow/rain to run off, sound waves to be directed away, and heat to escape easier. It is also the correct size to fit nearby under a deck out of sight to store when not needed.
I plan to line it as well but I took some initial readings using my calibrated microphone inside the room closest to the generator. Red is without the box and green is with. There is a massive difference as well. The human ear perceives 3dB as being twice as loud. In the 100-200Hz area it is 7dB quieter and in the 250Hz area it is 13dB.
 

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Hardwrkr13 said:
I built this generator sound box this morning using spare wood I had laying around. The top is angled to allow snow/rain to run off, sound waves to be directed away, and heat to escape easier. It is also the correct size to fit nearby under a deck out of sight to store when not needed.
I plan to line it as well but I took some initial readings using my calibrated microphone inside the room closest to the generator. Red is without the box and green is with. There is a massive difference as well. The human ear perceives 3dB as being twice as loud. In the 100-200Hz area it is 7dB quieter and in the 250Hz area it is 13dB.
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3 dB is half the energy but not perceived as half the level. 10 dB is perceived as half/twice as loud.
 
Sigh. For my roof issue I think the major damage is partly down to a satellite cable install (not me) from nearly 20 years ago I think. The cable looks like it helped water follow a course under the edge flashing at one area to a point where there was a small gap into the ceiling cavity. If rain blew a certain way it would lead water into that area. One of the roof repairs we had must have created that gap or shifted the cable.

If I had a Time Machine there's quite a bit of ass kicking I'd like to do.
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