Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 244 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Our new fridge was about 8 months old when it started spitting the ball bearings out of the drawer glide. CSR tries to tell me that's normal wear and tear and the part is not warranted as such. I was having none of that. If it means the drawer guides fall apart in less than a year under normal wear and tear there's a big problem .Eventually got her to just mail me out the part (no charge) and I replaced it.
 
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So she now works in a corner not on the big desk with a window view ? Your a brave lad


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That desk was in the corner, took it out to take a photo to sell it. I asked her if she wanted a desk side that came out to the window and she said no.
 
If some want to try repairing their appliances I found reliableparts.ca for parts. They have schematics for most models with all the parts codes. They wanted $120ish for the dryer compressor capacitor. Local electronics shop had a compatible cap for $15. Does anyone know better suppliers? Kinda like rockauto for appliances?

Considering the experience I would suggest people source spare caps for their major appliances that have a run/start cap for the motor. ACs and fridges are the first that come to mind. An AC cap could cost a lot of money on a hot summer day.

Another win. I fixed a fancy motorized lift downdraft ventilation hood for a friend. They got the standard too expensive to fix quote, new board is almost $1000. All it needed was a $2 voltage regulator. I wonder if I can make a side gig out of this.

PS: That is NOT my wiring. Copper sticking out of a terminal is like wearing a crop top in church.

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If some want to try repairing their appliances I found reliableparts.ca for parts. They have schematics for most models with all the parts codes. They wanted $120ish for the dryer compressor capacitor. Local electronics shop had a compatible cap for $15. Does anyone know better suppliers? Kinda like rockauto for appliances?

Considering the experience I would suggest people source spare caps for their major appliances that have a run/start cap for the motor. ACs and fridges are the first that come to mind. An AC cap could cost a lot of money on a hot summer day.
Buddy of mine was showing me that website recently and it’s an awesome resource. EBay and Amazon have been my go-to for parts but I’m all ears to a better option.
I’ve never dealt with Rockauto but Partsavatar have been excellent btw ;)
 
Hmm….so, in the space of about 6 months my range, washing machine and fridge (two weeks ago) went kaput…..and now my dryer is a useless kinetic ornament with no actual drying abilities. The only silver lining is that by some piece of luck, the 5yr extended warranty runs out on Thursday and so it “broke just in time”.

Cliched but true… “they don’t make them like they used to”.

Also, how the heck is a dryer now $1k? At least I shouldn’t have to buy one for a bit except this is a Samsung and I’ve been purging the house of Samsung appliances slowly. The refrigerator was a prime example, looked nice, had bells and whistles but any fridge that lies about the temperature inside is useless and double so if you need to keep disassembling it to defrost the fan hidden in the back. Also…ice maker didn’t really make ice more than on any given day it either randomly dispensed ice dust or gummed up with titanic killers.
On the dryer....

If you are fuses check to make sure one is not blown. If on breakers make sure they are ganged, if not check to see if one is tripped.... because...

True story:
Ours stopped working, it would turn but no heat, old crappy dryer.... I just assumed it was the element and spent zero fucks troubleshooting it--really negative ones. Wife was hanging laundry for a few months waiting for me to get around to troubleshooting. Not sure why, but one day I checked and one of the fuses was blown due to corrosion in the fuse holder... It was somewhat illogical as the fuse with only the element was blown not the one with the higher load element and motor (motor is 120v) (the corrsion made the lower load fuse blow). Don't tell my wife..... but I just said I fixed it. I should have known better to check this first but then there was the no fucks thing... upside, lower hydro bills for a few months.

Obviously before the new panel and service....
 
If some want to try repairing their appliances I found reliableparts.ca for parts. They have schematics for most models with all the parts codes. They wanted $120ish for the dryer compressor capacitor. Local electronics shop had a compatible cap for $15. Does anyone know better suppliers? Kinda like rockauto for appliances?

Considering the experience I would suggest people source spare caps for their major appliances that have a run/start cap for the motor. ACs and fridges are the first that come to mind. An AC cap could cost a lot of money on a hot summer day.

Another win. I fixed a fancy motorized lift downdraft ventilation hood for a friend. They got the standard too expensive to fix quote, new board is almost $1000. All it needed was a $2 voltage regulator. I wonder if I can make a side gig out of this.

PS: That is NOT my wiring. Copper sticking out of a terminal is like wearing a crop top in church.

View attachment 57680
Very very few people do component level repair. As a business that makes sense as schematics arent easy to come by and the blown part you replaced may have been a symptom not the cause and callbacks are a killer. Sucks as a consumer though. I'd rather spend 200 and hope it works than buy a new appliance as it will be down for a month waiting for a part.
 
Very very few people do component level repair. As a business that makes sense as schematics arent easy to come by and the blown part you replaced may have been a symptom not the cause and callbacks are a killer. Sucks as a consumer though. I'd rather spend 200 and hope it works than buy a new appliance as it will be down for a month waiting for a part.
In many cases this is a bit geographic/economic and is different in different countries. Here (and much of the "west") we have high labour rates and. while it does not feel like it right now, higher buying power so the cost in labour to troubleshoot and repair is not usually economical vs just replace. In other parts of the world they have cheap labour and much lower buying power, they repair everything as the cost to replace is very high to them.
 
In many cases this is a bit geographic/economic and is different in different countries. Here (and much of the "west") we have high labour rates and. while it does not feel like it right now, higher buying power so the cost in labour to troubleshoot and repair is not usually economical vs just replace. In other parts of the world they have cheap labour and much lower buying power, they repair everything as the cost to replace is very high to them.
Yup. Amazing to see the difference. Windows in kenya are all small panes leaded together, it would be hard to find someone to do that here and would cost an absolute fortune. In korea, I needed a spring and went to a hardware store. We grabbed a piece of wire off a rack the size of a wall and he wound the spring and faced the ends while I waited. I dont know if I could get that done anywhere in canada (a machine shop could do it but probably doesnt have a huge stock of suitable rods).
 
On the dryer....

If you are fuses check to make sure one is not blown. If on breakers make sure they are ganged, if not check to see if one is tripped.... because...

True story:
Ours stopped working, it would turn but no heat, old crappy dryer.... I just assumed it was the element and spent zero fucks troubleshooting it--really negative ones. Wife was hanging laundry for a few months waiting for me to get around to troubleshooting. Not sure why, but one day I checked and one of the fuses was blown due to corrosion in the fuse holder... It was somewhat illogical as the fuse with only the element was blown not the one with the higher load element and motor (motor is 120v) (the corrsion made the lower load fuse blow). Don't tell my wife..... but I just said I fixed it. I should have known better to check this first but then there was the no fucks thing... upside, lower hydro bills for a few months.

Obviously before the new panel and service....
Thanks for that. New task for the day is to now find the dryer fuse. I don’t recall there being two though.
 
Thanks for that. New task for the day is to now find the dryer fuse. I don’t recall there being two though.
Unless it is a really small apartment sized 120v dryer there are always two as the dryer element is 240VAC in a normal one, the motor and "controls" are 120VAC. Probably 30 amp fuses, give or take. Both hots need to be fused the element spans the two hots but the 120V stuff is one hot to neutral.

For breakers it will be a "double" or two seperate that should be ganged if done "right".
 
Unless it is a really small apartment sized 120v dryer there are always two as the dryer element is 240VAC in a normal one, the motor and "controls" are 120VAC. Probably 30 amp fuses, give or take. Both hots need to be fused the element spans the two hots but the 120V stuff is one hot to neutral.

For breakers it will be a "double" or two seperate that should be ganged if done "right".

its a breaker and it’s a double. Guess that means it should be all or nothing in that case.
 
We get a guy to coat the drive , with the volume of material he purchases I couldn’t do it myself as reasonably


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Tarred new driveway. Although bigger than last house my time factor of 3hrs was way off. 8hrs and 8 pails of tar later I was done (as was my back).
I want to do this. But I’ve got a few spots where it dips so not sure how to properly fix that before the tarring.

I expect 5-6 pails of tar for my driveway.

Do you use a roller or something else for good coverage?
 
We get a guy to coat the drive , with the volume of material he purchases I couldn’t do it myself as reasonably


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Used to be that way when I lived in Durham but not out here in rural land. Maybe it’s the less competition. Got a price for my last house and it was $400-500 so I did it myself for $175. I didn’t bother getting a price for this house.
I want to do this. But I’ve got a few spots where it dips so not sure how to properly fix that before the tarring.

I expect 5-6 pails of tar for my driveway.

Do you use a roller or something else for good coverage?
Black Knight Depression Filler. I think I got it at Home Hardware, cheap and works great. Driveway squeegee is much quicker but you’ll use more product unless your asphalt is really smooth. Roller takes longer but saves product.
 

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