ECM box damage. | GTAMotorcycle.com

ECM box damage.

Jinster81

Banned
Hey all. One question to those knowledgeable about ECM boxes. If there is a slight (1/8") hole, or a crack in the ECM metal case but the car runs fine, does that mean the ECM itself is still fine? Does it need to replaced ASAP or use it until it shows problems? And can a ECM last with a blem on it casing for long?

I got some worries, so any advice would be great. Thanks.
 
"If it works, leave it alone" that sort of thing normally either works, or doesn't.

What car is it and where is the ECU in the car? How did the hole/crack appear? Main concern I'd have is water intrusion into the electronics, which is never good.
 
If it's working and it's a later model car that's not throwing any codes, it's almost certainly fine. You should seal the crack to prevent humidity but all the later model PCBs I've seen have been conformal coated.
 
Main concern I'd have is water intrusion into the electronics, which is never good.

I'd just put a bead of silicone there just to be safe
 
It's a late model Nissan Sentra. Thanks for the tips!!
 
I'd recommend epoxying it.. Here's how I'd do it if I were you:

1) Clean up the general area with alcohol or acetone. Dampen a rag, don't spray it in there

2) Mix up a bit of speed-set epoxy like JB-Kwik, apply over and around the hole (at least about 1/4-1/2" diameter)

3) Let it sit overnight (while it sets in 5min, I'd give it a few hours to cure)

4) Forget you ever had it

Total time: 3min if you take your sweetass time

One additional consideration: If there is also a crack that you think might start spreading, I'd consider drilling out the ends, but you'd have to be EXTRA careful about not going too far with your drill or you'd fubar the board.

P.S. Whoever formulated JB Kwik deserves a Nobel Prize! I've used it to fix my wife's jewlery, a crack in the air intake tube on my old Mazda, farings on the Fizzer, Bubba'd mirror-mounting hole in the wall, picture frame at dear ol' mum's place, brass liners on my razor scales, to name a few things.. I use it more than cyanoacrylate (super-glue or Krazy Glue) even though it has its uses as well. Hell, I use it more than duct tape :D
 
P.S. Whoever formulated JB Kwik deserves a Nobel Prize! I've used it to fix my wife's jewlery, a crack in the air intake tube on my old Mazda, farings on the Fizzer, Bubba'd mirror-mounting hole in the wall, picture frame at dear ol' mum's place, brass liners on my razor scales, to name a few things.. I use it more than cyanoacrylate (super-glue or Krazy Glue) even though it has its uses as well. Hell, I use it more than duct tape :D

I never had luck with those things. They crack like biscuit after they are dry. Maybe I;m mixing it all wrong.

I've had so much luck with silicone. Its flexible and watertight, they should give the guy a noble prize :D
 
One additional consideration: If there is also a crack that you think might start spreading, I'd consider drilling out the ends, but you'd have to be EXTRA careful about not going too far with your drill or you'd fubar the board.

The ECU casing isn't a structural component, there's no strain to cause a crack to spread.

Then again, how does a hole grow in an ECU unless someone hangs out in the Jane/Finch area too often? That I dunno.
 
I never had luck with those things. They crack like biscuit after they are dry. Maybe I;m mixing it all wrong.

I've had so much luck with silicone. Its flexible and watertight, they should give the guy a noble prize :D

Silicone as a cure all is old hat. Good for heat but for bonding I use polyurethanes. FWIW. JB weld is an epoxy not a miracle. Treat it as such.
 
I never had luck with those things. They crack like biscuit after they are dry. Maybe I;m mixing it all wrong.

I've had so much luck with silicone. Its flexible and watertight, they should give the guy a noble prize :D
The 5min. JB Weld I don't find is very strong but the long cure version is a Godsend. I have even used it as a high strength body filler, sands well and even takes paint.
 

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