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Does Thin Oil Destroy Engines?
- Thread starter Evoex
- Start date
I came across this video recently. It's interesting.
It's a bit of a common misconception some have that "thicker oil is better because it sticks to parts better", but it really fails to take into consideration that thinner oils flow faster when they're cold, so every time you cold start your engine that thinner oil gets to everywhere important much, much faster as a result of being thin, and the overwhelming majority of engine wear occurs during cold starts.
And ultimately, even a 0W20 (for one of the more common examples) is still a 20 weight when hot, so it's still providing lots of protection on that end as well.
It's a bit of a common misconception some have that "thicker oil is better because it sticks to parts better", but it really fails to take into consideration that thinner oils flow faster when they're cold, so every time you cold start your engine that thinner oil gets to everywhere important much, much faster as a result of being thin, and the overwhelming majority of engine wear occurs during cold starts.
And ultimately, even a 0W20 (for one of the more common examples) is still a 20 weight when hot, so it's still providing lots of protection on that end as well.
I think this video is the best explanation of multi-grade oils I've seen yet
I think the bearing clearances are much tighter than what they use to be. I know a lot of old school guys don’t believe in thinner oils but that is what they are designed to run on. If you really want to blow their minds tell them that you change your oil every 20,000 km.
DSpecMoto
Active member
This 10k oil change is bonkers.
You really can't change your oil enough.
I wouldn't run lower than 0w20 and run 5w20 in my BRZ. The thicker the oil the better it will protect. The real issue is oil changes viscosity through use. So when you start so low and run it for so long youre way below spec for the majority of the oils life.
Nothing is better than just having fresh oil.
You really can't change your oil enough.
I wouldn't run lower than 0w20 and run 5w20 in my BRZ. The thicker the oil the better it will protect. The real issue is oil changes viscosity through use. So when you start so low and run it for so long youre way below spec for the majority of the oils life.
Nothing is better than just having fresh oil.
Interesting video. I wondered about thinner oils being burned off more than the thicker one. Like 0-20 burned off more than 5-20
I just put in what the manual calls for . The engineers and chemists went to school to sort this out . It’s not like the guy at the design center is saying “ ok let’s spec this oil so it grenades at five yrs and we sell a new car!!” , somebody figured out oil pressure with tight tolerance , flow rates , cooling ability and wrapped that into a formula. Or it’s just magic .
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Relax
Well-known member
FTFY
Tell that to kia, just georgetown kia alone are changing 5 or more engines a month still because of catastrophic failures
No oil is going to save Hyundai/ Kia grenades that just what they do.
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Wife loves her 2012 Kia Soul. Bought it used in 2015 with 70,000 km on it. Now it has 240,000. Beside a couple of brake jobs it has been bullet proof. It is the only car we’ve owned that doesn’t burn oil between changes (10k). Everyone told us it would blow up. We’ve been lucky. Ugliest vehicle too. But we got one as a rental and wife loved all the room for hauling stuff.
To bring thread back to topic,
After it hit 150,000 I switched from the recommended 5W20 to 5W30
To bring thread back to topic,
After it hit 150,000 I switched from the recommended 5W20 to 5W30
friends Hyundia was eating 1L per 1000kms, more at hyway speeds, service manager sent her an email "its normal" , when it finally blewup while under warranty they told her , she should have had the oil consumption checked and rectified. She gave them back the service letter saying "its normal"
I'm not sure 10W50 deisel oil would have staying it that motor.
I'm not sure 10W50 deisel oil would have staying it that motor.
Probably already had the engine swapped under warranty?
That is a good question, I never knew to even ask at the time of purchase. I've not been to the dealership since the purchase, except for a couple of recalls.
Is there a way to tell without going/asking the dealer?
Are VIN still stamped on it?
