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Clean slate garage / Shed recommendations

@GreyGhost OK thanks. We have a double door. I'll have to look into some options once the main part of the work is done. Thanks.
 
Trials said:
He's correct, they are there to keep the walls from spreading out. To suspend significant weight you need to put some vertical load bearing support, or at the very least you will mess up your roof line.
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GreyGhost said:
Be careful with weight if you are building like this. The bottom chord of a truss is not supposed to support weight. It is easy to put a lot of weight on 32 sq ft.
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all very true, but I use it for the lighter stuff, coolers, tents, tarps, a set of tires, fishing rods, and crap like that

the tires are probably the heaviest
 
Add vertical supports and if you can't put them under the load you have to add a beam to span at least 2 of them.
Double garage door is a big span, this is going to get expensive.

... tyres on rims are pretty heavy aren't they? I'd be moving those towards that outside walls.
 
GreyGhost said:
Be careful with weight if you are building like this. The bottom chord of a truss is not supposed to support weight. It is easy to put a lot of weight on 32 sq ft.
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The hanging weight of a roof standard roof truss is about 5lbs/sq'. If you lay a perpendicular 2x6 x 8' beam on top of the truss chords it will span 5 trusses to spread the load -- shouldn't be a problem hanging your shelf from that.
 
mimico_polak said:
@crankcall Thanks for that. The panel is actually in the garage. I'm happy about that because even though I sold the Volt, I want to keep the L2 charger in case I get another EV. As for the ceiling, that's a great idea. I'll have to see what kind of clearance is up there, but junk likes to accumulate over the years and I'd definitely want to put something up there if it's never used.
Same goes for the plywood idea as a wall...never thought of that but might do that. I'm literally tearing out everything to the studs and it's something to look into. Not a huge cost in the overall scheme, but super handy.
The floor...I was more worried about having a level floor to jack the car up for tires/oil changs/brake work. I'll have to see where the uneveness is, because I'm still milling the Quick Jack option. But I know that it needs a level floor to work properly and safely.
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We keep buying bigger houses to store stuff we'll never use. :)

A little tip for the future when the kids leave home: Buy them a new pair of shoes in a box. The shoes are for wearing and the box is to store anything they want to leave at your place.

Weight accumulates and a lot of people don't realize how much. Would the failure of one truss be catastrophic? If it landed on your bike? Or head?
 
Re the floor: I'm patching some spalling and it's going OK but will look patchy when done. I don't like painted concrete as I find it slippery when wet. Any solutions / comments? I don't like anti skid either as it's too hard to keep clean.
 
Concrete gets slippery and shiny when you finish it more, if you want traction give it a broom finish. ... makes it much harder to keep clean.

The truss roof in this part of the world is designed to handle snow loads, if you use up all your load bearing capability for storage, it will be this winters big snow fall that brings the whole thing down on your head.
 
Exposed aggregate is nice too (y) looks great and is not crazy slippery outdoors over winter.
Highly recommended for most places except right under your doors where they would probably not seal so good.
Too late anyway if you already started your pour.
 
Speaking of storage. I'm in the attic of my garage right now finishing my led light install, and found stuff up there i haven't looked at in 25 years. Fishing gear and life jackets that will go to the dump. A little chief electric smoker that is still ok. (Free to anyone) all kinds of lumber.A big canoe pack, (also free)
 
Wingboy said:
Speaking of storage. I'm in the attic of my garage right now finishing my led light install, and found stuff up there i haven't looked at in 25 years. Fishing gear and life jackets that will go to the dump. A little chief electric smoker that is still ok. (Free to anyone) all kinds of lumber.A big canoe pack, (also free)
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Hardwood or spf?
 
If it is Mahogany Cherry Red Cedar Walnut or Lignum vitae you have something pretty good there.

spf scraps make good bird houses
 
Lights are all done. Best $119 i have spent in years. I'll post a bunch of pics in the review forum later.
 
crankcall said:
It would be interesting to see a garage in basement vs garage with load bearing floor cost analysis. I get that it would be a project by project estimate. We did an "engineered" slab on an old house, we used open web steel joists (ZigZag joists like you see in industrial buildings) a steel pan on the joists to hold the concrete and pumped concrete onto the rebar and mesh grid that sat on little metal 'chairs' to be at the correct hieght. The engineering was provided by the company that sold us the steel joists, standard parking garage specs, since it was 24ft x24ft it wasnt complicated. Joists sat on a ledge poured when the poured house foundation went in. Added about 400sq ft of basement storage and since the basement was heated it made the garage a bit more comfy. Sadly only lived there 3 yrs.
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The potential issue I see with that is frost under the floor, unless you dug down even deeper to set the footings for the garage. If your lot is properly sloped, I don't see that being a huge deal. Many houses in Montreal have that style of driveway/garage combination. Google Maps
 
My entire house is sitting on several inches of styrofoam.
Heated monolithic slab on grade (y) the entire structure is always above frost level.
 
If you can, try to get a side mounted garage door opener. Also known as Jack mount (I think)
This way you get more room for shelving above the garage door and you also do not have that chain/track and motor in the middle.
They are on the pricey side (approx $500) but well worth it.
One will support a 2 car garage door.

I have 2 installed in my house and I love. They are also much quieter than the chain driven openers.

Elite Series 8500 | Wall Mount Garage Door Opener | LiftMaster
 
oioioi said:
If you can, try to get a side mounted garage door opener. Also known as Jack mount (I think)
This way you get more room for shelving above the garage door and you also do not have that chain/track and motor in the middle.
They are on the pricey side (approx $500) but well worth it.
One will support a 2 car garage door.

I have 2 installed in my house and I love. They are also much quieter than the chain driven openers.

Elite Series 8500 | Wall Mount Garage Door Opener | LiftMaster
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Thanks, that's something I would look into once this one dies. It's a belt driven one so fairly quiet, but the extra space would def be a welcome addition.

Funny but the first link in your post (by VIGLINK) is to ebay.ca for 'volkswagen cc and I love'....
 
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