Cable TV re-wiring

RockerGuy

RockerGuy

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I want to re-run some wires to my TV. The wires and have now are outdated and have signal loss and interference. I want to put some digital wires thru. The last time Rogers came to my house they run it to the exterior and bore a hole in my wall.

I basically want to remove the old wires and replace it with new. Any tips to go about doing this? All the wires seem to be behind drywall. The main connection point is to the basement.

Cheers
 
RockerGuy said:
I want to re-run some wires to my TV. The wires and have now are outdated and have signal loss and interference. I want to put some digital wires thru. The last time Rogers came to my house they run it to the exterior and bore a hole in my wall.

I basically want to remove the old wires and replace it with new. Any tips to go about doing this? All the wires seem to be behind drywall. The main connection point is to the basement.

Cheers
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duct tape + new cable......
 
use your old cable + tape to fish new wire into your house...

wire_and_string.jpg
 
frekeyguy said:
use your old cable + tape to fish new wire into your house...
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Thought about that idea, use it before in another application but when it hits a bend, the wire keep slipping off. I don't want to be without cable, lol
 
Know anyone who does cable installs? A workmate referred me to his buddy that works for a cable tv installer/contractor. He came over and upgraded the RG59 coax in my house to RG6 for $100 cash.
 
There's no such thing as "digital" coaxial. What's in your house right now is probably RG59, which has been the de facto standard up until just the last few years. The newer standard is RG6, and the difference is subtle, using a slightly thicker gauge core and an additional layer of foil shielding.

If you're having signal loss issues, I would recommend checking the main connection point in your house first (in the basement) just to make sure the problem isn't on Rogers' side. Try hooking up a receiver and TV right at the source and then check the signal stats. Never know, you might end up saving yourself a lot of time and money.

Gary said:
For about a buck at Radio Shack (or whatever they are now) use one of these. It won't slip off:

http://www.summitsource.com/eagle-a...-splice-plug-extension-part-ff10b-p-7242.html
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This ^ is what I did.

Plus a bit of electrical tape around it all just to make sure it doesn't snag and get stuck. The only reason I did this though is because I use over-the-air antenna now, which is already a weak signal to begin with, and I wanted to make sure I wasn't losing any down the line. When we had cable, and satellite before that, the RG59 was holding up just fine.
 
If it takes more than a few turns in the walls, forget about it. You either have to cut drywall or run the cable through some outdoor conduit.
 
DaveTheCanuck said:
There's no such thing as "digital" coaxial. What's in your house right now is probably RG59, which has been the de facto standard up until just the last few years. The newer standard is RG6, and the difference is subtle, using a slightly thicker gauge core and an additional layer of foil shielding.

If you're having signal loss issues, I would recommend checking the main connection point in your house first (in the basement) just to make sure the problem isn't on Rogers' side. Try hooking up a receiver and TV right at the source and then check the signal stats. Never know, you might end up saving yourself a lot of time and money.



This ^ is what I did.

Plus a bit of electrical tape around it all just to make sure it doesn't snag and get stuck. The only reason I did this though is because I use over-the-air antenna now, which is already a weak signal to begin with, and I wanted to make sure I wasn't losing any down the line. When we had cable, and satellite before that, the RG59 was holding up just fine.
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I have the RG6 installed by Rogers, but its outside and its hideous. For me it made a world of difference. There is less distortion on TV and my internet is no longer dropping off.

I'm just looking for a clean install and remove the un-sightly wires outside. Wanted to hear some ideas before I start work on the weekend.
mmmnaked said:
If it takes more than a few turns in the walls, forget about it. You either have to cut drywall or run the cable through some outdoor conduit.
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I didn't want to hear that :(
 
Running the cable through cold air returns is another option. You just have to make sure it's plenum rated, which can be expensive.
 
DaveTheCanuck said:
Running the cable through cold air returns is another option. .
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Oh yes, never thought of that. Any idea how u would route into each vent?
Thanks
 
RockerGuy said:
Oh yes, never thought of that. Any idea how u would route into each vent?
Thanks
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fishing wire....like cable fishing....i have a spool that goes down somewhere...
 
RockerGuy said:
Oh yes, never thought of that. Any idea how u would route into each vent?
Thanks
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Heh, well it's still not a true "no cut" solution :p And it all depends how far your cold air returns are from the cable outlets (or more importantly, where you need cable outlets). It's just another idea to consider if your house layout supports it.
 
Chances are you will need to do some fishing there. Do it right, and run network (CAT6) and rerun your phone lines (use CAT6, separate run to each jack) while you're at it, at least 3 jacks per room. Here are some tips..

1) The easiest is to run it straight up into the attic and then drop wherever needed

2) If you take your plugs (the 4x4" piece of drywall that you cut out, might wanna go bigger if you're new at this) to Home Depot and they will be able to color-match it

3) Get some 1x2s to hold your plugs once you're done

4) Keystone jacks are DA ****

5) Watch out for electrical while cutting into the walls

6) Don't run low voltage (rg6/cat6) through the same holes/conduits as high voltage, drill new holes in the studs if needed with a 3/4" spade bit

7) Don't buy any tools. I can loan you all the tools that you'll need for the job

8 ) If you wanna wait a bit, order keystone jacks (CAT6, RJ11, F-type) from Monoprice as you'll save A TON, but use Leviton plates, they're worth the extra cash

9) If you're doing network, order a patch panel from Newegg, a bit pricier but there have been some issues with Monoprice panels
 
FiReSTaRT said:
Chances are you will need to do some fishing there. Do it right, and run network (CAT6) and rerun your phone lines (use CAT6, separate run to each jack) while you're at it, at least 3 jacks per room. Here are some tips..
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Overkill to the max!

No house has a network system that could take advantage of Cat6. Cat 5 and 6 is not needed for plain old telephone service. Why waste the time and money on wire, jacks and plates for this?

Why not get him to run fiber optic cable too while he is at it?


.
 
^ if you're gonna do it once, do it right

Why someone would opt NOT to run CAT6 when rewiring their house is beyond me.
 
SunnY S said:
Overkill to the max!

No house has a network system that could take advantage of Cat6. Cat 5 and 6 is not needed for plain old telephone service. Why waste the time and money on wire, jacks and plates for this?

Why not get him to run fiber optic cable too while he is at it?
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The cost difference between 1000ft of CAT5e and CAT6 is only about $20 or $30.

The keystones and plates are the same.
 
DaveTheCanuck said:
The cost difference between 1000ft of CAT5e and CAT6 is only about $20 or $30.

The keystones and plates are the same.
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If you are going to go the overkill CAT6 upgrade route, although the CAT5 connectors look alike, you might as well use the proper CAT6 connectors as they offer better transmission performance.

Still overkill for Res applications IMHO.
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SunnY S said:
If you are going to go the overkill CAT6 upgrade route, although the CAT5 connectors look alike, you might as well use the proper CAT6 connectors as they offer better transmission performance.

Still overkill for Res applications IMHO.
.
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Huh. Well how'bout that, you're right.

I'm a 4th year network engineering student and until now I had never heard of any differences between CAT5 and CAT6 keystones - besides the label on the front.

...That's kind of embarrassing.
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