Any GTAM'ers own an electric vehicle? | Page 255 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Any GTAM'ers own an electric vehicle?

Just elect NDP and all of the provinces charging problems will be solved /s. One of her bs crazy ideas is $600 for every house in ontario to install a charging station. Man she's a loon.

 
24hrs at 110V should top it up

Not after 250+km it won't. You'd be looking at probably 50kw consumed (napkin estimate) which would take somewhere in the 35-40 hour range to replenish, again, napkin estimate. And there's a distinct lack of fast chargers in the north which sucks. If you can get access to a 240v plug somewhere at point B (dryer plug works) and bring your own L2 charger (or even a L1.5 which is cheaper and easier to find compatible 240v circuits for) you can certainly change the math for the better though.
 
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The Bolt is really at the top of my list...I just don't like the way it looks....but the price for used ones is around where I think I can make a straight switch with the WRX. Will have to go see.

Realistically...I don't drive anywhere where I'll extend the 300km range of the Bolt. Furthest is my buddy's cottage in Algonquin Park...but I could just plug it in once I get there, and keep it plugged until I leave on Sunday. 24hrs at 110V should top it up. 260km one way.

From www.plugshare.com (which has a trip-planner function) ...

There's a 50kW DC fast-charger at the Harveys/Swiss Chalet in Huntsville. This is about 200 km into the trip. In a Bolt, that would use about 32 kWh and in the 2017-2019 (original battery capacity) model leave 26 kWh left. 20 minutes on that charger would bring it to around 42-43 kWh (and cost $6!), then do the last 60 km arriving with it half charged or better. If it sits for a day on 110V 12A (you have to manually set it to that) it'll be full before you leave and that's enough to get all the way home. In the case that the fast-charger is busy or not available, you can still get there, theoretically with some charge left, and sitting on 110V for a day might not bring it to completely full but it'll be enough to get back to civilisation and fast-chargers.

Some time in 2019 the Bolt got a battery upgrade to the current 65 or 66 kWh and the fast-charging speed increased a little.

There's some complaining in the world of "professional" auto reviewers that GM didn't increase the fast-charging speed on the refreshed Bolt, but to me, it looks like a faster charging speed wouldn't do a whole lot of good out in the boonies. What fast-charging stations that I see on Plugshare in that area, are all 50kW anyhow. It's just the PetroCanada stations on the TransCanada Highway that are the heavy-duty 350kW models.
 
Thanks @PrivatePilot and @Brian P . I distinctly remember my buddy having a 220V plug for a washer close to the driveway (inside where bathroom is). So if I could get an extension cord I guess theoretically I could charge with a L2 outlet.

I could do the same at our cottage. Out laundry 220V plug is right by the window closest to the driveway. Could reach it no issue. I think a Bolt could do the return trip without charging in all honesty.

I’ll try to do some test drives soon but seeing WRX prices all over the map I’m just going to go into a dealer with a number and leave it there. The Volt is most likely the more doable option.

Mind you I could probably go for a Civic or something and come out even further ahead lol. But the EV pull is strong. Wish I kept the Gen1.
 
Another thing; if you don't like the Bolt, the Hyundai Kona EV is practically the same size and battery capacity.

I wouldnt choose either but if I HAD to pick...

Go Hyundai. The bolt BEV2 powertrain is already redundant last gen tech and will ride off into the gm electrified heaven along with the Volt as another failed venture. the Ultium tech is the new gen design and hopefully you can charge it to 100 percent without blowing it up. On top of that no one wants to be seen driving a bolt...
 
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There's a 50kW DC fast-charger at the Harveys/Swiss Chalet in Huntsville

Be very, very careful to check for recent successfull charge reports on these distant (especially L3) charging stations as it's been my experience that some of the networks running these chargers tend to be slow (or non existant) on repairs if they go down. Look at the L3 in Havelock for example - last I looked it had been down since (IIRC) last summer.

This is certainly a problem at this stage of EV adoption.
 
So, for those who missed it in the other thread, we bought a trailer to tow with the Volt.

camper1.jpg

Went for the first test-tow today and got some if the nitty gritty details on how the car handled things.

From a physical standpoint the car is a champ at towing. Off the line it hauls effortlessly up to speed and I was easily able to pull away and leave cars in my dust at a green light, for example. It's stable as hell - coming back down highway 57 I could drive with just 2 fingers on the wheel if I wanted to and it just trucked along like there was nothing behind it. Stops great - didn't even really need the friction brakes, regen was doing probably 80% of the braking. I did one agressive brake application for a safety test and it hauled down fast. I do not have the trailer brakes hooked up yet (Trailer is only ~1500# so they're not even legally required, but it has them) and I'm not sure I'll bother now honestly - long gradual braking maximizes regenerative braking gains anyways which is beneficial so I'll take advantage of it.

The big question I had was...will the range extender keep up with the demands of towing.

I towed in "Mountain Mode" which is designed to hold the battery at 45%. At 45% SOC in mountain mode things went well until I got out on the road at 90KPH and with some hilly terrain. Despite the engine running (as in Mountain Mode it's supposed to maintain 45%, the part between 22% and 45% being the "climbing a bit hill" (IE, Mountains) buffer. However I slowly watched (on my OBD2 tablet display) the car chew that buffer up bit by bit, percent by percent.

The problem was...the engine was running, but the car refused to bring the RPM's up (& generate more) to compensate for the fact the buffer was depleting still. Only when it got down to about 19% did it start to realize something was up and slightly increased the RPMs - it seemed to hold its own at this point. Until I got to some long hills. Admittedly I had it on cruise control and wasn't making any effort to back out of it as I wanted to see what happened - it climbed the grades like a champ while not loosing a single kph (honestly, the thing hauls like a champ!)...but the battery kept dropping.

At 16% the car goes into "Holy Shitballs" mode and the engine runs at the governor to generate maximum power and replenish the battery back to at least 22%. It runs at ~4100RPM...which given how soundproofed the Volt is really wasn't at all bothersome honestly. Below 16% it also dumps out into "Propulsion Reduced" mode which I thought was going to be a big deal....IE, I can't even maintain my speed and I need to pull over big deal. But that wasn't the case. I did lose a little power but it kept pulling - I think it went down to 88kph (from a 90kph set cruise) despite being on a hill and once the hill was crested the car rebuilt the battery buffer and the car settled back into holding the 19-22% range.

Every slowdown through a town or at a traffic light allowed the system time to rebuild things even more as the car aimed to rebuild to the 45% mountain mode preset. Any downhill at <20% SOC dramatically and quickly increased SOC as not only was the engine putting out 35-40+Kw but the regen braking could be pushing out another 20-30kw.

So, I wasn't super happy about seeing SOC's down to the 15 range, but it was only there for a <60 seconds, and honestly, I probably shouldn't be worried even there as there's some software mods available in the aftermarket that do allow more of those buffer to be tapped to increase range anyways with zero effect on battery longevity years later. The buffers on the Volt were over-engineered and overkill. And of course as soon as you slow down or whatnot it rebuilds quickly. Would I want to run it below 10%? No...I don't want to tempt fate, but I'd just back off the go-pedal if things got that low.

Next weekend if the weather holds I'll take it out on the 401 and see what happens at 100kph versus 90kph.

This is where the Gen2 Volt apparently does better as it honks on the engine earlier to maintain the buffer versus letting it deplete. It also has a little more oomph behind the generator portion of the car.

On the bright side, all the operating temperatures stayed in a comfortable range, even the transmission - it topped out at 89c (194F) and then sat there for the most part which is from what I can gather perfectly acceptable and not uncommon to see in the summer. But I need to remember the ambient temp was zero celsius as well - question is...will temps stay low once summer hits. I'm prepared to install a secondary tranny cooler if need be to keep things safe.

Overall the fist tow was in general a great success. Would I take it out into the mountains? Nope. But that wasn't the goal with this setup.
 
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Another thing; if you don't like the Bolt, the Hyundai Kona EV is practically the same size and battery capacity.
Looked into those but from autotrader I’d be looking in the high 40s or low 50s for one. Basically 1 or 2 used in Ontario as of a couple days ago. So Kona EV is out but I’ll try and test drive it.
 
Looked into those but from autotrader I’d be looking in the high 40s or low 50s for one. Basically 1 or 2 used in Ontario as of a couple days ago. So Kona EV is out but I’ll try and test drive

Check Quebec?

We bought our Ioniq there because there was so much more to choose from at lower prices vs Ontario. It was a seamless process as the dealership we dealt with was familiar with selling to Ontario residents - apparently it's pretty common for reasons mentioned above. They even arranged the temp plate for us to drive home in the car. We just took the train out, took an uber to the dealer, and after doing my due diligence and then the paperwork we were on the road later that day.

Check Trader, Kijiji, and FB Marketplace.
 
@PrivatePilot i was going to ask you how you like the Ioniq? Is it the PHEV or pure EV?
I’m wary of QC due to me always believing lots of cars get their VINs washed there after flooding or write offs in Ontario.
 
We have the full EV version. Having the Volt erased any range anxiety issues with the Ioniq as if we are going somewhere where time matters or we don't want to deal with stopping to charge...we take the Volt.

Keep in mind the Ioniq is a mid-range EV - rated for 185 (IIRC to be exact) with the usual seasonal variances. We see 220 in the summer and have got as low as 125 in the winter. But the price reflects the smaller battery and honestly with some planning there's not many places we haven't been able to go with a little consideration and planning on Plugshare.

As for buying from Quebec, yes, it's certainly a concern...I too know of the issues with rebuilt cars and such there. I think the key for us was that I knew what to look for to begin with to ensure I wasn't buying a wreck rebuild, and secondly, we bought from a very reputable (albeit small) dealership who clearly had nothing to hide and bent over backwards to answer every single question before we even committed to coming and seeing the car. If something was wrong we were fully prepared to just Uber back into downtown Montreal, see the sights for a day, and take the train home the next day.

You do need to do your due diligence however. AFAIK the wreck rebuilders aren't messing with EV's however - too complicated for their likings and potential returns for the effort. So there's that.
 
Re towing with the Volt - I doubt if transmission temperature will be an issue. No torque converter in those. The motors and generators have high efficiency. The calibration wasn't exactly designed for this usage...but heat buildup won't be a problem.

edit: The thing that's missing is "tow/haul" mode :ROFLMAO:
 
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Great thanks @PrivatePilot That range is definitely cutting it close to what I'd be comfortable with as a full EV. Even getting to the cottage (140-160km) is cutting it too close for comfort. Maybe if I took the side routes (Hwy 10, Hockley, and then 27) it could be more doable. But I'd get there and can't move for a day as I charge up again.

Also, saw something weird today....a Tesla with a normal blue plate. What's up with that? I guess the guy wanted a personalized plate on his EV so he got a normal plate. I assume he can still use the HOV lane and get all the benefits of a green plated vehicle without an actual green plate.
 
The Kona EV may be hard to find as a used car. For quite a while, Hyundai was only selling those in California-emissions states and only in small numbers. I'm not sure when they opened up availability.
 
Re towing with the Volt - I doubt if transmission temperature will be an issue. No torque converter in those. The motors and generators have high efficiency. The calibration wasn't exactly designed for this usage...but heat buildup won't be a problem.

edit: The thing that's missing is "tow/haul" mode :ROFLMAO:

Both motors are cooled by the fluid as well so that’s where the heat is primarily generated. There is another fellow I found online who tows an also not insignificant trailer with his Gen1 who reported temperatures climbing way beyond that in the summer heat. And he also cooked a tranny (or more specifically, one of the electric motors therein), although he was also doing some other stuff and he’s unsure what eventually caused it’s death, but he strongly suspects it was heat related either way. He doesn’t post much about his experiences as the EV (and specifically the Volt) community is full of “Omg think of all the children and nuns you’ll kill when you inevitable crash because you dared pull a trailer with an EV!” sorts.

That said, given I’m asking a lot of it and given that heat isn’t the friend of many things mechanical (within what’s considered normal obviously) I think there’s a strong argument to be made for an aux cooler If temps climb above 210F or beyond and don’t or won’t drop as ambient increases.

Also, saw something weird today....a Tesla with a normal blue plate. What's up with that? I guess the guy wanted a personalized plate on his EV so he got a normal plate. I assume he can still use the HOV lane and get all the benefits of a green plated vehicle without an actual green plate.

It’s the custom plate thing - you can’t get custom in green plate. Reportedly the perks come with the plate (not the car) so in doing so he’s giving up HOV and EV parking, although you’d really have to have a cop with a bug in his ass to give out an HOV ticket to a Tesla (of all things) because of the blue vs green plate thing, but the argument may stand up in court if it got that far.
 
Both motors are cooled by the fluid as well so that’s where the heat is primarily generated. There is another fellow I found online who tows an also not insignificant trailer with his Gen1 who reported temperatures climbing way beyond that in the summer heat. And he also cooked a tranny (or more specifically, one of the electric motors therein), although he was also doing some other stuff and he’s unsure what eventually caused it’s death, but he strongly suspects it was heat related either way. He doesn’t post much about his experiences as the EV (and specifically the Volt) community is full of “Omg think of all the children and nuns you’ll kill when you inevitable crash because you dared pull a trailer with an EV!” sorts.

That said, given I’m asking a lot of it and given that heat isn’t the friend of many things mechanical (within what’s considered normal obviously) I think there’s a strong argument to be made for an aux cooler If temps climb above 210F or beyond and don’t or won’t drop as ambient increases.

So what is the stock cooling situation for the tranny? I assume transmission oil in there with an oil to water heat exchanger to get the heat to the main cooling system? What is the upgrade path (add oil/air, increase size of oil/water)?
 
So what is the stock cooling situation for the tranny? I assume transmission oil in there with an oil to water heat exchanger to get the heat to the main cooling system? What is the upgrade path (add oil/air, increase size of oil/water)?

Traditional tranny cooler on the end of the engine radiator like any traditional car.

Aftermarket tranny coolers just plumb in on the line leading to the radiator and are mounted at the front of the radiator stack - they dump a bunch of heat before the fluid gets to the main radiator. They’re pretty common for any HD towing / plowing vehicles.
 
I found this (the stock trans cooler): Trans Oil Cooler for 2015 Chevrolet Volt | Kipp Scott GM Parts

I recognise item 3. It will have a thermostatic valve inside it that's normally open at low fluid temperature (to allow fluid to bypass the cooler). A bunch of other GM vehicles use a similar set-up, some of these bits and pieces are shared with other vehicles. It uses proprietary quick-connect fittings to couple the various components together, which are fast to put together on the assembly line, but may make it annoying to substitute anything else. It looks like there are aftermarket kits for transmission coolers for these cars, so it's possible somehow.
 

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