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3d printed parts & stuff
- Thread starter GreenPlane
- Start date
Free 3D printer had a hell of a lot going on (locked up fans, dual z lead screws out of sync and trying to bind at every opportunity, select stuck on on controls, unbranded so firmware requires manual setup etc). Picked up something else to learn with and should be able to get the original running once I understand how things are supposed to work.
Ender 3 Max with CR touch up and running. Need to do some tweaking to get it working well. Overall not bad out of the box. Will calibrate/tram/adjust everything soon to make it work properly.
Bed was cranked down a long way (more than 1/2"). Getting the bed up to proper height removes almost all spring pressure (upgraded springs installed from factory). That seems to let the bed height drift around a bit. Hopefully that settles down in a few days.
Z axis has a single lead screw and opposite leg was not well adjusted. Change in Z height tips the gantry and often doesn't change height on the opposite side until two or three steps have happened. Should be pretty easy to fix that.
For some reason first test print mostly worked but had some issues. Raft printed fine. 3D printer test was dragging the nozzle quite a bit and that was pushing bed around. Seemed to maintain positional accuracy but obviously those layers are no bueno. Manually cranked out z-offset by 3.3 mm to get it back on track. It's like the slicer generated the raft but didn't account for it and tried to print the part directly on the substrate. Extruder is a little fast, I will dial that back. Overhang worked well to about 60 degrees and then got muddy (I didn't use 100 percent fill so that may be part of the problem).
EDIT:
Gantry was out of square by ~1/2" over 12". Pulled it back to <1/4" but it is a machining issue. To get it square I would need to use shims or files to adjust. Good enough for now.
As I didn't need the Z-limit switch anymore, I dropped the stop lower so I can keep the bed springs from topping out.
Z-axis hysteresis was bad. On a direction change, lead screw side would move 5 mm before opposite side started moving. Fixed now. 0.1mm steps translate across.
After using proper CNC controls in the past, this homegamer stuff is annoying. It could easily be fixed in firmware. I don't want to go through three menus to move an axis. I don't want half the small screen dedicated to stupid things like the name of the printer, whether a fan is on or a picture of a printhead. Those could easily be punted to another screen if you were trying to diagnose an issue. Also percentage complete is a factor of height not time nor filament used which are likely both far more accurate (unless you are printing a block most prints will use more filament and time down low).
Raspberry pi's out of stock everywhere (unless you buy an overpriced kit full of junk I don't need). Octopi will have to wait.
I will update as I work through everything else.
Ender 3 Max with CR touch up and running. Need to do some tweaking to get it working well. Overall not bad out of the box. Will calibrate/tram/adjust everything soon to make it work properly.
Bed was cranked down a long way (more than 1/2"). Getting the bed up to proper height removes almost all spring pressure (upgraded springs installed from factory). That seems to let the bed height drift around a bit. Hopefully that settles down in a few days.
Z axis has a single lead screw and opposite leg was not well adjusted. Change in Z height tips the gantry and often doesn't change height on the opposite side until two or three steps have happened. Should be pretty easy to fix that.
For some reason first test print mostly worked but had some issues. Raft printed fine. 3D printer test was dragging the nozzle quite a bit and that was pushing bed around. Seemed to maintain positional accuracy but obviously those layers are no bueno. Manually cranked out z-offset by 3.3 mm to get it back on track. It's like the slicer generated the raft but didn't account for it and tried to print the part directly on the substrate. Extruder is a little fast, I will dial that back. Overhang worked well to about 60 degrees and then got muddy (I didn't use 100 percent fill so that may be part of the problem).
EDIT:
Gantry was out of square by ~1/2" over 12". Pulled it back to <1/4" but it is a machining issue. To get it square I would need to use shims or files to adjust. Good enough for now.
As I didn't need the Z-limit switch anymore, I dropped the stop lower so I can keep the bed springs from topping out.
Z-axis hysteresis was bad. On a direction change, lead screw side would move 5 mm before opposite side started moving. Fixed now. 0.1mm steps translate across.
After using proper CNC controls in the past, this homegamer stuff is annoying. It could easily be fixed in firmware. I don't want to go through three menus to move an axis. I don't want half the small screen dedicated to stupid things like the name of the printer, whether a fan is on or a picture of a printhead. Those could easily be punted to another screen if you were trying to diagnose an issue. Also percentage complete is a factor of height not time nor filament used which are likely both far more accurate (unless you are printing a block most prints will use more filament and time down low).
Raspberry pi's out of stock everywhere (unless you buy an overpriced kit full of junk I don't need). Octopi will have to wait.
I will update as I work through everything else.
Last edited:
Or the end of the world? What if they start printing themselves?
Clone wars!
Did you ever get these? If not, what colour are you looking for? I assume you want the slightly smaller ones that don't hit the fork?Anyone in kw make me a couple of headlight globes? Will pay decently.
Super Tenere Headlight cover by Bikelord
A headlight cover to suit a Yamaha Super Tenere XT1200Z. For use if you have a larger than normal light globe, such as a LED H7 with a heat sink on the back. You will need to remove the rubber o-ring from the stock cover and fit it to the printed model. VERSION 2 V2 has been slightly tweaked to...www.thingiverse.com
No i haven't got them. Black or grey. And yes they need to clear the forks.
GreenPlane
Well-known member
It looks like I was so lucky to start with a "user-friendly" printer that didn't require much work to start printing..
Btw, don't forget to properly maintain your printer (e.g. lubricate it and so on). It makes a difference with the print results.
I'm buying all my Raspberry Pis/Teensy/other electronics from these 2 places:
www.pishop.ca
www.canadarobotix.com
I believe they have stuff in stock and the price is reasonable. Check them out..
Btw, don't forget to properly maintain your printer (e.g. lubricate it and so on). It makes a difference with the print results.
I'm buying all my Raspberry Pis/Teensy/other electronics from these 2 places:
Current Raspberry Pi Boards in Canada
One stop for ALL Pi needs. Add-ons, HATs, UPS, cases, SD cards, accessories, projects and ideas.
www.pishop.ca
Raspberry Pi
The Raspberry Pi 4 Model B is the latest Raspberry Pi single board computers. It offers increases in processor speed, multimedia performance, memory, and connectivity with a 64-bit quad-core Cortex-A72 (ARM v8) while retaining backwards compatibility and similar power consumption.
www.canadarobotix.com
I believe they have stuff in stock and the price is reasonable. Check them out..
Thanks. Pishop was out of stock earlier today. Got one coming now.It looks like I was so lucky to start with a "user-friendly" printer that didn't require much work to start printing..
Btw, don't forget to properly maintain your printer (e.g. lubricate it and so on). It makes a difference with the print results.
I'm buying all my Raspberry Pis/Teensy/other electronics from these 2 places:
Current Raspberry Pi Boards in Canada
One stop for ALL Pi needs. Add-ons, HATs, UPS, cases, SD cards, accessories, projects and ideas.Raspberry Pi
The Raspberry Pi 4 Model B is the latest Raspberry Pi single board computers. It offers increases in processor speed, multimedia performance, memory, and connectivity with a 64-bit quad-core Cortex-A72 (ARM v8) while retaining backwards compatibility and similar power consumption.
I believe they have stuff in stock and the price is reasonable. Check them out..
D
Deleted member 50930
Guest
If you are open to learning and less hand holding the STM ARM microcontrollers are much cheaper than the Raspberry stuff.
I'm open to learning but I've got lots of learning going on at the moment. May as well simplify my life and buy an easy and proven solution. We are talking <$100 for the proven solution, that doesn't buy you much time to learn.
GreenPlane
Well-known member
Can you recommend some places where to buy good dev boards with it? My quick search only gave me the options around $35 per board.. which is not cheap, considering that I can buy Teensy 4.1 for $36 or Teensy 4.0 for $27 and they have ARM Cortext-M7 instead of Cortext-M3..
Also, I'm not sure that it would be easy to run octopi on any of the Cortex-Ms.. but I might be wrong..
GreenPlane
Well-known member
btw, octopi can be installed on Pi Zero 2. I absolutely LOVE Pi Zero and Zero 2.. these boards provide so much for under $20 (Pi Zero is less than $8)!!!! I have quite a few of them in different projects.. including one that I killed accidentally by shorting 5v and ground
I just went with this recommendation:btw, octopi can be installed on Pi Zero 2. I absolutely LOVE Pi Zero and Zero 2.. these boards provide so much for under $20 (Pi Zero is less than $8)!!!! I have quite a few of them in different projects.. including one that I killed accidentally by shorting 5v and ground
"Which Raspberry Pi is best for OctoPrint?
To get started with OctoPrint, here's what you'll need: Raspberry Pi: OctoPrint strongly recommends the Raspberry Pi models 3B, 3B+, or 4B. Raspberry Pi versions 1 and 2 are compatible with OctoPrint but not officially supported, and the Pi Zero is “not recommended explicitly“
Life's to short to be fighting with a controller or waiting ages for a laggy interface.
GreenPlane
Well-known member
Totally agree with you! I just recently replaced an old laptop with Pi 4B and now it drives my wall monitors with dashboards.. it's so awesome that they've added 2 micro-hdmi to it!
At the same time, I'm in love with Pi Zero just because they are powerful enough for many different tasks and dirty chip..
Attachments
GreenPlane
Well-known member
Btw, I hope one of your first 3d prints will be a case for your Pi : ) there are quite a few of them on thingiverse and they are awesome!
Some exist. I suspect I'll need to respin one though. I like the installation under the control pad. The pi I bought has different plugout from the download and print model. Oh well, get to learn about bringing stl into modelling software.
My buddy set up his entire house for smart devices and is running the server off his Raspberry Pi. Everything is connected, doors, windows, switches, garage door, lights, and exterior gate. Actually pretty slick what he's done with it.
He also designed his entire renovation in 3D SketchUp and had his wife go through the house with an Oculus to make changes before they touched anything. Genius.
Anyway 2 questions:
- is it possible to print with a rubberized / flexible material? We have a kitchen device that has a soft seal and as it's an older model they're hard to come by. I was able to get a seal, but expecting this one to fail with time.
- what would be a good way to 3D print an enclosure for this: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...fast-wireless-charging-pad-0357360p.html#srp? I'd like to set up a Qi charger in my Volt so need it to actually HOLD the phone in place.
He also designed his entire renovation in 3D SketchUp and had his wife go through the house with an Oculus to make changes before they touched anything. Genius.
Anyway 2 questions:
- is it possible to print with a rubberized / flexible material? We have a kitchen device that has a soft seal and as it's an older model they're hard to come by. I was able to get a seal, but expecting this one to fail with time.
- what would be a good way to 3D print an enclosure for this: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...fast-wireless-charging-pad-0357360p.html#srp? I'd like to set up a Qi charger in my Volt so need it to actually HOLD the phone in place.
D
Deleted member 50930
Guest
^
TPU??
TPU??
You can print flexible. Direct drive makes it easier. I haven't tried it but flexible material and bowden tube seems like a recipe for heartache. Search for TPU to head in the right direction.
The hard part of an adapter for that is reversing the complicated shape to make a pocket for the charger. I've got some that were basically a section of a cylinder that would be far easier to model. I was thinking wood could be easier but I guess you could do something similar in plastic. Make a pocket for your phone on top, a rough pocket for the charger on the bottom. I think the easiest would be to slide the charger in like a coin. Get the OD and thickness correct and you can ignore the intervening shape and print a rectangle slot.
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