Now that I’ve finally found an electrician that will do job hourly projects my ceiling fan job can move forward . It’s was suggested to buy a DC motor fan , quiet , run longer on less power. Seems they also start at about twelve hundred bucks for sixty inch in nice styling.
Now that I’ve finally found an electrician that will do job hourly projects my ceiling fan job can move forward . It’s was suggested to buy a DC motor fan , quiet , run longer on less power. Seems they also start at about twelve hundred bucks for sixty inch in nice styling.
Now that I’ve finally found an electrician that will do job hourly projects my ceiling fan job can move forward . It’s was suggested to buy a DC motor fan , quiet , run longer on less power. Seems they also start at about twelve hundred bucks for sixty inch in nice styling.
Ours is DC. All I hear is the sound of the blades hitting the air. Think I paid about $600 pre covid. 3 blade, looks like a propeller. Think it's 48". I'd have to check
I initially bought one for a room with a chronically low ceiling as these are about the lowest profile ceiling fans you can get. Ended up buying two more for other rooms. They are light so super easy to mount and quiet too. Yes, they look a bit funky but there’s a few different styles. Costco sells some versions as well. I'm going to buy a few more to move air in some walk in closets as there are smaller diameter versions too. They move some decent air but are probably best for smaller rooms.
I suspect I’ll never save enough electricity to justify a fourteen hundred dollar DC fan , but if it’s super quiet as they claim that’s close enough . It’s sixty two inches and will be twelve ft off the floor so living a long happy life up there is my hope . It’s just a fan , no light fixture in it and actual wood blades like an airplane propeller. Not sure how it will ever get dusted .
I suspect I’ll never save enough electricity to justify a fourteen hundred dollar DC fan , but if it’s super quiet as they claim that’s close enough . It’s sixty two inches and will be twelve ft off the floor so living a long happy life up there is my hope . It’s just a fan , no light fixture in it and actual wood blades like an airplane propeller. Not sure how it will ever get dusted .
Engineers drawings for the peak roof addition will be $1400. Still waiting for the overall quote. In the meantime there are 4 industrial fans and the largest dehumidifier I've ever seen drying out the ceiling in the room. For spray foam application the wood humidity has to be 10% or lower and we have patches of wood at 30%. Plan is to dry the ceiling, add the spray foam drywall and paint etc then address the peak roof from outside. Builder doesn’t think inside access will be needed. There's a few very soft wood patches in a rim joist which he said he can see to from outside when they put the peak roof on (assuming that’s affordable) I wonder if that can be epoxied? I saw a carpenter ant last night in one place so used a shop vac to remove it and any others and put some borax down.
If the peak roof is an outrageous cost we will probably have a new epdm membrane put on and add some more slope to the flat roof instead. I'd rather just get rid of the flat roof right now as it’s a nightmare. Stripping off the modified asphalt roof to get to the deck to put a membrane on probably won’t be that cheap anyway
As this can't be done immediately I've put a new layer of bitumen patch across all seams and edges and the low point of the roof and sealed any nail holes and gaps I could find with silicone caulk. Used backer rod from inside for any gaps we could find. Trying to make sure there's no further leaks.
It's a pain in the ass to find this kind of damage hidden above the ceiling when it wasn’t expected but I'm kind of glad we did it now so it can be addressed once and for all. It's really only a couple of square feet that are an issue, everything else is nice and dry and solid.
Engineers drawings for the peak roof addition will be $1400. Still waiting for the overall quote. In the meantime there are 4 industrial fans and the largest dehumidifier I've ever seen drying out the ceiling in the room. For spray foam application the wood humidity has to be 10% or lower and we have patches of wood at 30%. Plan is to dry the ceiling, add the spray foam drywall and paint etc then address the peak roof from outside. Builder doesn’t think inside access will be needed. There's a few very soft wood patches in a rim joist which he said he can see to from outside when they put the peak roof on (assuming that’s affordable) I wonder if that can be epoxied? I saw a carpenter ant last night in one place so used a shop vac to remove it and any others and put some borax down.
If the peak roof is an outrageous cost we will probably have a new epdm membrane put on and add some more slope to the flat roof instead. I'd rather just get rid of the flat roof right now as it’s a nightmare. Stripping off the modified asphalt roof to get to the deck to put a membrane on probably won’t be that cheap anyway
As this can't be done immediately I've put a new layer of bitumen patch across all seams and edges and the low point of the roof and sealed any nail holes and gaps I could find with silicone caulk. Used backer rod from inside for any gaps we could find. Trying to make sure there's no further leaks.
It's a pain in the ass to find this kind of damage hidden above the ceiling when it wasn’t expected but I'm kind of glad we did it now so it can be addressed once and for all. It's really only a couple of square feet that are an issue, everything else is nice and dry and solid.
A peaked roof replacement is best done with prefab trusses. They are likely to cost less than your engineering fees - they come with engineer stamped drawings.
You’ll also save a bunch of labor as trusses require about 1/5th the labor of a stick framed roof. You can save a ton in carpentry.
A peaked roof replacement is best done with prefab trusses. They are likely to cost less than your engineering fees - they come with engineer stamped drawings.
You’ll also save a bunch of labor as trusses require about 1/5th the labor of a stick framed roof. You can save a ton in carpentry.
Do they make prefab trusses for a 10-12ft width roof? This is a small roof in the grand scheme of things and it has weird angles at one end.
Also I get you could cut a truss to any size but I'm guessing any bracing is for a larger roof.
Edit: One big detail I forgot, the new roof would have to be a very low pitch in order to tie in to the other part of the house. I remember the contractor mentioned that specifically hence the engineer thing.
Do they make prefab trusses for a 10-12ft width roof? This is a small roof in the grand scheme of things and it has weird angles at one end.
Also I get you could cut a truss to any size but I'm guessing any bracing is for a larger roof.
Edit: One big detail I forgot, the new roof would have to be a very low pitch in order to tie in to the other part of the house. I remember the contractor mentioned that specifically hence the engineer thing.
Almost all trusses are custom made to order - kinda like a pizza. A truss maker enters your dimensions into a program that generates a code compliant truss, and drawing. They stamp the drawing, it goes into your building permit application as an engineered item.
Strange angles and shapes are not challenging for truss makers.
I just finished helping a a friend with his 28x28’ garage. ’ 3/12 slope clear span, high snow load trusses cost him 150 each, about $2500 for the whole garage taxes and delivery.
That’s a really good price for a truss that span. I think during my phase selling trusses and glulam beams we would be over that price , thirty yrs ago . They sure do make a roof go up quickly .
Engineers drawings for the peak roof addition will be $1400. Still waiting for the overall quote. In the meantime there are 4 industrial fans and the largest dehumidifier I've ever seen drying out the ceiling in the room. For spray foam application the wood humidity has to be 10% or lower and we have patches of wood at 30%. Plan is to dry the ceiling, add the spray foam drywall and paint etc then address the peak roof from outside. Builder doesn’t think inside access will be needed. There's a few very soft wood patches in a rim joist which he said he can see to from outside when they put the peak roof on (assuming that’s affordable) I wonder if that can be epoxied? I saw a carpenter ant last night in one place so used a shop vac to remove it and any others and put some borax down.
If the peak roof is an outrageous cost we will probably have a new epdm membrane put on and add some more slope to the flat roof instead. I'd rather just get rid of the flat roof right now as it’s a nightmare. Stripping off the modified asphalt roof to get to the deck to put a membrane on probably won’t be that cheap anyway
As this can't be done immediately I've put a new layer of bitumen patch across all seams and edges and the low point of the roof and sealed any nail holes and gaps I could find with silicone caulk. Used backer rod from inside for any gaps we could find. Trying to make sure there's no further leaks.
It's a pain in the ass to find this kind of damage hidden above the ceiling when it wasn’t expected but I'm kind of glad we did it now so it can be addressed once and for all. It's really only a couple of square feet that are an issue, everything else is nice and dry and solid.
It sucks but based on your earlier description most of us were pretty sure it was a leak... condensation just did not make sense.
If it was me, I would consider how long you will be in the house and decide to either take the sloped roof route OR just have the flat roof redone. While I am not a fan of flat roofs does the ROI on the new sloped roof make sense, is it cheaper or more expensive than the flat roof repair?
Engineers drawings for the peak roof addition will be $1400. Still waiting for the overall quote. In the meantime there are 4 industrial fans and the largest dehumidifier I've ever seen drying out the ceiling in the room. For spray foam application the wood humidity has to be 10% or lower and we have patches of wood at 30%. Plan is to dry the ceiling, add the spray foam drywall and paint etc then address the peak roof from outside. Builder doesn’t think inside access will be needed. There's a few very soft wood patches in a rim joist which he said he can see to from outside when they put the peak roof on (assuming that’s affordable) I wonder if that can be epoxied? I saw a carpenter ant last night in one place so used a shop vac to remove it and any others and put some borax down.
If the peak roof is an outrageous cost we will probably have a new epdm membrane put on and add some more slope to the flat roof instead. I'd rather just get rid of the flat roof right now as it’s a nightmare. Stripping off the modified asphalt roof to get to the deck to put a membrane on probably won’t be that cheap anyway
As this can't be done immediately I've put a new layer of bitumen patch across all seams and edges and the low point of the roof and sealed any nail holes and gaps I could find with silicone caulk. Used backer rod from inside for any gaps we could find. Trying to make sure there's no further leaks.
It's a pain in the ass to find this kind of damage hidden above the ceiling when it wasn’t expected but I'm kind of glad we did it now so it can be addressed once and for all. It's really only a couple of square feet that are an issue, everything else is nice and dry and solid.
Carpenter ants only eat decaying wood unlike termites that eat the good stuff. The occasional scout can be seen even around good wood.
A friend in Quebec has had her house up for sale for over six months and finally had an offer. The inspector found a bit of rot over one window and nixed the deal, even though the damage was immediately rectified. Since she has moved into a senior's apartment the house is vacant and insurance is $700 a month due to the distance from a fire station.
The neighbour behind me is getting their not-too-old shingles replaced because the previous company had apparently set the nail guns to hard and punctured the shingles. I
It sucks but based on your earlier description most of us were pretty sure it was a leak... condensation just did not make sense.
If it was me, I would consider how long you will be in the house and decide to either take the sloped roof route OR just have the flat roof redone. While I am not a fan of flat roofs does the ROI on the new sloped roof make sense, is it cheaper or more expensive than the flat roof repair?
There's a peace of mind issue too. Not having to worry about when the flat roof will eventually leak will be worth a lot.
The leak thing is bad news true. I couldn't understand why we only saw water dripping in the most humid times of the summer when it wasn’t raining, hence the condensation thoughts, but I can make it make sense if insulation gets saturated at those times.
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