Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[nobbie48]

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It powered a water pump at a one room school house where my grandma taught for decades . The school was originally at the rear gates to Kelso conservation area , was then dismantled and moved to the then Ontario agricultural museum , that was shuttered and became Heritage park . You can see the school house , stone building from the Four O One . Granny was the last teacher when the school was amalgamated with a big public school in the late sixties . Since everyone in the family had apparently worked with this engine we kept it for fun . My plan was to put it in a wooden row boat , but that idea is number six hundred and forty two on the list .


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The first boat I made as a teenager was an eight foot punt made from one sheet of plywood and scavenged crate lumber. It was powered by a cast iron cement mixer motor driving paddle wheels, no fenders.

The occupants got wetter than the bottom of the boat. I love those old farm hit and miss engines as well.

 

[Mad Mike]

How would one diagnose a very low power mower? I’m out of ideas.

Three things are necessary: compression, spark and fuel.

1, check spark by pulling the plug, check gap (exactly the same as a credit card (.03”), and clean it up with a wire brush if it’s carboned up. . then put it back into the boot. With one hand, hold the end of the plug, with the other pull the cord. If the plug tickles your fingers, it’s probably good. Alternately you can ground the plug and visually check for spark by tilling the start cord.

2. Compression. Most lawnmower engines will run above 50 psi. Ideal is 70-90. Use a compression gauge. If you don’t take one, put your thumb over the open spark plug hole and pull the start rope. Your thumb can hold back about 50psi, so if you can’t hold back compression, you’re probably good.

3. Fuel. If the first 2 check out, then it’s probably fuel. Drain the tank and put on 1/2 litre of good fuel. Crack the drain valve on the carb bowl till new fuel purges the old (about 2 shot glasses worth). If no fuel comes thru, you have a blockage in your fuel lines or stuck needle valve in the carb. Remove carb and clean.

 

[GreyGhost]

Three things are necessary: compression, spark and fuel.

1, check spark by pulling the plug, check gap (exactly the same as a credit card (.03”), and clean it up with a wire brush if it’s carboned up. . then put it back into the boot. With one hand, hold the end of the plug, with the other pull the cord. If the plug tickles your fingers, it’s probably good. Alternately you can ground the plug and visually check for spark by tilling the start cord.

2. Compression. Most lawnmower engines will run above 50 psi. Ideal is 70-90. Use a compression gauge. If you don’t take one, put your thumb over the open spark plug hole and pull the start rope. Your thumb can hold back about 50psi, so if you can’t hold back compression, you’re probably good.

3. Fuel. If the first 2 check out, then it’s probably fuel. Drain the tank and put on 1/2 litre of good fuel. Crack the drain valve on the carb bowl till new fuel purges the old (about 2 shot glasses worth). If no fuel comes thru, you have a blockage in your fuel lines or stuck needle valve in the carb. Remove carb and clean.

In his case, he obviously has some spark as it runs. Whether the spark is strong enough or at the right time is a harder question to answer.

He replaced the carb with minimal improvement so a stuck needle valve is unlikely. The rest of your points make sense for this motor.

 

[mimico_polak]

Thanks @Mad Mike.

New carb installed - ran slightly better than before and didn’t die as fast. Still slow / low power.

New air filter installed - same time as new carb

Fuel - will check out the drain method and see if anything comes out

On another note…how could one verify if a used electric mower has a decent battery life remaining?

Tempted to try it out as this 22” FWD is a pain in our yard.

Was a gift from dad when we bought the house as in his eyes ‘bigger is better’.

A smaller, and quieter mower may make things better.

 

[GreyGhost]

On another note…how could one verify if a used electric mower has a decent battery life remaining?

I know how to do it if I have time. I don't know how to do it in 5 minutes at somebodies house. Offer to cut their lawn before you take it home? Find a deep patch of weeds and drive it in to see if it powers through or gives up at the slightest resistance? Most have shielded connections so getting a battery tester on isn't easy unless you make/buy an adaptor beforehand.

 

[mimico_polak]

I know how to do it if I have time. I don't know how to do it in 5 minutes at somebodies house. Offer to cut their lawn before you take it home? Find a deep patch of weeds and drive it in to see if it powers through or gives up at the slightest resistance? Most have shielded connections so getting a battery tester on isn't easy unless you make/buy an adaptor beforehand.

Ya I'd just rather assume the battery is dead and price according to that with a new purchase of a battery.

EDIT: I guess there are also adapters for using my 18V RIDGID tools with the RYOBI line...but not sure that's the best route.

In all honesty, I'd love a riding mower for the cottage as it would make life easier / simpler...but no space to put it away except the basement...and that's a pretty steep drop through a 30" door (my head gets injured 3/10 times and I can't shave it for a week when hitting the joists on the way out).

 

[Mad Mike]

… My plan was to put it in a wooden row boat , but that idea is number six hundred and forty two on the list .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app

I have building a stitch ‘n glue 12’ mini tug on my bucket list.

I did help build a wooden pickle fork in the 80s with my neighbour, it was a 12’ pickle fork he fitted a gl 1000 engine from his dad’s crashed gold wing. We ran it regularly on Frenchman’s Bay.

 

[Mad Mike]

Thanks @Mad Mike.

New carb installed - ran slightly better than before and didn’t die as fast. Still slow / low power.

New air filter installed - same time as new carb

Fuel - will check out the drain method and see if anything comes out

On another note…how could one verify if a used electric mower has a decent battery life remaining?

Tempted to try it out as this 22” FWD is a pain in our yard.

Was a gift from dad when we bought the house as in his eyes ‘bigger is better’.

A smaller, and quieter mower may make things better.

Low power can be compression or fuel or weak spark. New plug eliminates spark plug issues. Carbon buildup from running a dirty carb can cause compression lost due to stuck rings and most likely carboned up exhaust valves. A simple check is to slowly pull the motor over till you feel compression. If you hear hissing out the muffler, exhaust valve is not seating (most likely). Out the carb, intake valve.

You can try sea foam, a few tanks may free up the rings and decaf on the valves. It works slowly, probably a few tanks of fuel for modest improvement.

Also, new carbs from Amazon should always be cleaned prior to installing. They will self clean over time, but when new they have corrosion protection and possibly swarf that makes them run a little rough for a while.

 

[timtune]

and possibly swarf

Always a confidence builder.

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