There are numerous articles on why cans, designed for shipping don't make good houses without a ton of modifications, largely insulation. Depending on the method chosen the can could be thought of as the equivalent of siding for a conventional shed.
Foaming a container goes from ~ $2K to $8K depending on size and DIY vs Pro. Then a small plug in heater should keep the relative humidity down while making it into a more comfortable shop. Containers are from $2K to $10K bare so $4K to $18K insulated. Is it worth it?
One could probably cobble together a 12' X 12' OSB shed for a competitive amount. Making it look pretty would be the expensive part.
If you want to be lazy, ground prep for container is much simpler. As it is structurally sound, you can just dump it on unprepared ground or a small pad on each end as a step up. Sheds should be built on prepared ground (compacted gravel, pilings or pad).
If you want to be lazy, ground prep for container is much simpler. As it is structurally sound, you can just dump it on unprepared ground or a small pad on each end as a step up. Sheds should be built on prepared ground (compacted gravel, pilings or pad).
Steel in this context is thermally conductive. Humid air inside and cold air outside will cause the moisture to stick to the inside walls and ceiling. In my case enough for it to start "raining down" in the right conditions. Similar to moisture sticking to the outside of a cold beer can in summer... How does the humidity get in there... well open the doors for a long period on a hot humid summer day introduces the moisture, shut the doors and it is sealed inside for all practical purposes. Next temp drop significant enough for it to condensate on the walls and ceiling, bingo.
Temperature control can help, good venting can help, dehumidification can help, etc.
When used for shipping they tend not to be four seasons in one direction and they aren't opening and closing the doors on the trip....
Steel in this context is thermally conductive. Humid air inside and cold air outside will cause the moisture to stick to the inside walls and ceiling. In my case enough for it to start "raining down" in the right conditions. Similar to moisture sticking to the outside of a cold beer can in summer... How does the humidity get in there... well open the doors for a long period on a hot humid summer day introduces the moisture, shut the doors and it is sealed inside for all practical purposes. Next temp drop significant enough for it to condensate on the walls and ceiling, bingo.
Temperature control can help, good venting can help, dehumidification can help, etc.
When used for shipping they tend not to be four seasons in one direction and they aren't opening and closing the doors on the trip....
They aren't sealed enough to combat temp changes. Warm up the container during the day and the air inside expands and leaks out. Temp drops at night and the air inside cools and sucks in air from outside. It's constantly pumping even when closed.
They aren't sealed enough to combat temp changes. Warm up the container during the day and the air inside expands and leaks out. Temp drops at night and the air inside cools and sucks in air from outside. It's constantly pumping even when closed.
There are numerous articles on why cans, designed for shipping don't make good houses without a ton of modifications, largely insulation. Depending on the method chosen the can could be thought of as the equivalent of siding for a conventional shed.
Foaming a container goes from ~ $2K to $8K depending on size and DIY vs Pro. Then a small plug in heater should keep the relative humidity down while making it into a more comfortable shop. Containers are from $2K to $10K bare so $4K to $18K insulated. Is it worth it?
One could probably cobble together a 12' X 12' OSB shed for a competitive amount. Making it look pretty would be the expensive part.
Pre covid i spray foamed and 2x4 studded and 3/8" plywood lined a 20' sea can for under 2k all in doing the work myself.
The biggest advantage of a sea can VS something that you cobble together is ease of securing, hard to beat a sea can for that, one good lock and done.
In a pinch a decent sized circulation fan goes a long way to keep the condensation on the walls and ceiling from getting to the point of making it rain in the can.
Steel in this context is thermally conductive. Humid air inside and cold air outside will cause the moisture to stick to the inside walls and ceiling. In my case enough for it to start "raining down" in the right conditions. Similar to moisture sticking to the outside of a cold beer can in summer... How does the humidity get in there... well open the doors for a long period on a hot humid summer day introduces the moisture, shut the doors and it is sealed inside for all practical purposes. Next temp drop significant enough for it to condensate on the walls and ceiling, bingo.
Temperature control can help, good venting can help, dehumidification can help, etc.
When used for shipping they tend not to be four seasons in one direction and they aren't opening and closing the doors on the trip....
We have lots of them in our construction yard. An 8x20 crawl space vent on each side is all you need to keep it from getting damp and icy.
We also have a container garage (2 containers, trusses across- gives us a 14x40’ workroom. The workroom walls and dirt floor insulated with r10 styrofoam covered with osb. Stays steady 18c when it’s -30 outdide using an 8kw VEVOR diesel heater.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
