Ugh. You'll always have difficulty with the bleed screw in that position. Get the bleeder pointing to the sky. Remove the caliper, find a scrap piece of material to stuff between the pads, and if possible, raise and position the caliper above the master.
Did u get full pressure back? That bleeder isn’t at the perfect angle for bleeding. If you can, try lifting the front wheel by 2’ to tilt the bleeder screw up then re-bleed.
I use DOT 3 fluid I’m my rear brakes. It’s less hydroscopic and only marginally lower in boiling point so flushes are required way less frequently. Rear brakes are not likely to get anywhere close to DOT3 limits unless you are racing.
Did u get full pressure back? That bleeder isn’t at the perfect angle for bleeding. If you can, try lifting the front wheel by 2’ to tilt the bleeder screw up then re-bleed.
I use DOT 3 fluid I’m my rear brakes. It’s less hydroscopic and only marginally lower in boiling point so flushes are required way less frequently. Rear brakes are not likely to get anywhere close to DOT3 limits unless you are racing.
Prior to the bleed I was getting the pedal all the way down with zero pressure. Now…maybe 1/2” to 1” of movement before pedal stops and won’t go any further.
I’m considering doing the front also just to firm it up again.
Prior to the bleed I was getting the pedal all the way down with zero pressure. Now…maybe 1/2” to 1” of movement before pedal stops and won’t go any further.
I’m considering doing the front also just to firm it up again.
Since there appears to be no fluid near the caliper or along the brake line, I wonder if it is up in the master cylinder and it is taking air in when the plunger pushes the fluid down and air gets sucked in when the lever is released.
Since there appears to be no fluid near the caliper or along the brake line, I wonder if it is up in the master cylinder and it is taking air in when the plunger pushes the fluid down and air gets sucked in when the lever is released.
Were the bake line connections to the master cylinder and caliper tight? Wonder if they just reused the washers instead of new ones when you had it serviced (not that they would loosen those, should be just the bleeder)?
Were the bake line connections to the master cylinder and caliper tight? Wonder if they just reused the washers instead of new ones when you had it serviced (not that they would loosen those, should be just the bleeder)?
I don't use my rear brake much, so I haven't bothered to really look into it, but the leading theories are sub-par OEM Brembo MC design allowing air intake on the return stroke (as @Sunday Rider mentioned) in combination with the location of the MC near the hot engine and exhaust promoting vapour formation and then the routing of the brake hose hose and caliper orientation that traps it there.
So the better you bleed the fluid and purge all air, the longer between pedal softness.
I don't use my rear brake much, so I haven't bothered to really look into it, but the leading theories are sub-par OEM Brembo MC design allowing air intake on the return stroke (as @Sunday Rider mentioned) in combination with the location of the MC near the hot engine and exhaust promoting vapour formation and then the routing of the brake hose hose and caliper orientation that traps it there.
So the better you bleed the fluid and purge all air, the longer between pedal softness.
Ya I did some more reading about the issue on some forums and reddit subs...all claim the same...'how is it possible that Ducati is able to sell this bike with such a massive fault in the design???'
Ya I did some more reading about the issue on some forums and reddit subs...all claim the same...'how is it possible that Ducati is able to sell this bike with such a massive fault in the design???'
I think it comes down to how well the lines are bled at the factory or during a brake fluid service. I have noticed that my 998 rear MC still works well since I last bled it in 2022 while elevating the caliper to be at the highest point. But I only had it on the road for 2 seasons and not much more than 10,000 kms.
Have we tried forcing fluid in through the bleed valve using a big hypo needle? (you may need to secure the hypo line to the valve with a small gear clamp)
It's my new favorite method.
Have we tried forcing fluid in through the bleed valve using a big hypo needle? (you may need to secure the hypo line to the valve with a small gear clamp)
It's my new favorite method.
The problem is air is lighter than brake fluid, so the bleeder needs to be at the highest point in the circuit to allow evacuation. It won’t matter whether you shoot air into the bleeder or the reservoir - the air will still be trapped.
That’s why you can never reverse caliper son a car. They usually fit both sides, but are mirrored so the bleeders are always at the top.
The only solution I see is to bleed the caliper off it’s mount, or raise the bikes front end until the bleeders are it the highest point in the hydraulic circuit.
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