Wierd problem with 5th gen VFR | GTAMotorcycle.com

Wierd problem with 5th gen VFR

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silverbullet132

Well-known member
Rode fine for about 8km, got to a red light, died. Tried to start and only got a click from under the seat. Pushed it off the road onto the sidewalk, waited a few minutes, clicked the starter again and it started idled and revved fine. As soon as I moved it about 5 feet and got ready to get on the road it died again. MotoLimo towed it home for me, when I got home I hooked it up to a multimeter which read 17.5-18.3v with the bike turned off. While cranking the starter it would drop to 15 then go back up to 17.5-18.3v. Hoping that my multimeter is not broken, ideas?
 
silverbullet132 said:
Rode fine for about 8km, got to a red light, died. Tried to start and only got a click from under the seat. Pushed it off the road onto the sidewalk, waited a few minutes, clicked the starter again and it started idled and revved fine. As soon as I moved it about 5 feet and got ready to get on the road it died again. MotoLimo towed it home for me, when I got home I hooked it up to a multimeter which read 17.5-18.3v with the bike turned off. While cranking the starter it would drop to 15 then go back up to 17.5-18.3v. Hoping that my multimeter is not broken, ideas?
Click to expand...

your multi-meter must be busted - cause 15 volts while cranking is not right (neither is 18 when bike is off).
 
Replace the battery in your meter. Low battery could potentially give high readings.

IIRC the '99 VFR got a bigger heat sink, for the reg/rec.
 
Rob MacLennan said:
Replace the battery in your meter. Low battery could potentially give high readings.

IIRC the '99 VFR got a bigger heat sink, for the reg/rec.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good idea...tried another meter and it read 19.5-20.5v. How much does a R/R typically go for? $150?
 
R/R problems are not uncommon on the VFR. There are all sorts of solutions out there; OEM replacement, OEM upgrade, new wiring harness, R/R upgrade.
I went with the R/R upgrade and removed the connectors from the wiring harness.
I used the SHINDENGEN FH0122AA R/R. It's still a shunt type regulator, but the MOSFET switching means it generates much less heat in the R/R. It also has much improved regulation.
If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can install one of these for a little under $150.

I had the over-Voltage issue on one of my bikes, batteries are quickly damaged by overcharging.
 
VFR.CBR said:
I used the SHINDENGEN FH0122AA R/R. It's still a shunt type regulator,
Click to expand...

You know this for certain? I have one for my XX but have been hesitant to install it as nobody was able to answer that question with any certainty and I was worried about high transient voltages in the alternator windings.
 
VFR.CBR said:
R/R problems are not uncommon on the VFR. There are all sorts of solutions out there; OEM replacement, OEM upgrade, new wiring harness, R/R upgrade.
I went with the R/R upgrade and removed the connectors from the wiring harness.
I used the SHINDENGEN FH0122AA R/R. It's still a shunt type regulator, but the MOSFET switching means it generates much less heat in the R/R. It also has much improved regulation.
If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can install one of these for a little under $150.

I had the over-Voltage issue on one of my bikes, batteries are quickly damaged by overcharging.
Click to expand...

Was reading about that one.

Would a dead reg cause it to die then be fine a few mins later? Or start then die very shortly after I get moving?
 
Yes, the regulator can be the root cause of the bike dying, then restart a few minutes later. Unfortunately, it means the battery is probably cooked. The computer will have shut-down on over Voltage. The cool down period allowed the battery Voltage to drop a bit, the restart pulled it down a bit more, allowing the bike to run. But, probably only for a short time till the problem arose again.
 
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shewie said:
You know this for certain? I have one for my XX but have been hesitant to install it as nobody was able to answer that question with any certainty and I was worried about high transient voltages in the alternator windings.
Click to expand...

The FH0122AA is a shunt type regulator, as opposed to a series style regulator. You will not see high Voltages on the windings; 15 Volts max.
 
VFR.CBR said:
The FH0122AA is a shunt type regulator, as opposed to a series style regulator. You will not see high Voltages on the windings; 15 Volts max.
Click to expand...

Where can I get one? Is it possible to buy it local?

VFR.CBR said:
Yes, the regulator can be the root cause of the bike dying, then restart a few minutes later. Unfortunately, it means the battery is probably cooked.
Click to expand...

**** the battery is a week old...
 
toastman said:
Sounds like you replaced a battery before figuring out why the last one went bad.
Click to expand...

My mechanic did that, hopefully he covers it under warranty. Problem is the bike was/is my only mode of transport :( hopefully a new battery + R/R will fix this problem.
 
Yay...

img2011091300127.jpg
 
Another common problem. I would recommend a vfrness from tightwad over on vfrdiscussion. By all accounts it works and no more issues with burnt out wires. Tell him Gary sent ya :)
oops sorry slowbird lol
 
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