Last year I pulled the tranny out of mine and turned it upside down and drained it. Then I refilled it with the proprietary JD fluid recommended. It's over 20 years old. So far so good.
If it is slipping the chances are it needs the piston valve block and port plate lapped. Any scratches and it will slip. On mine it was actually the motor side that was deeply scored the pump side had a bit of wear but much less than the motor. Feel free to message me when it is apart if you need help.Thanks. Mine's a K46 so I'll likely pull it apart again in the Fall if it makes it through the Summer and see what's in there that looks in need of replacement. Good to see someone else has serviced theirs with success.
No help from JD on it as it's labelled as a sealed unit but some light digging shows many people including me can easily do a drain and fill with a better (synthetic) fluid to make it last longer but not much info on actually repairing them.
That a rich condition. Clogged air filter, stuck choke or thermostat if it’s all cylinders on a carb bike. Or really old plugs.I have a bad habit of throwing parts at problems... Did it on my gsxr by replacing the fuel filter/housing, and cleaning out my tank (oh well at least it should idle/run well). Checked my plugs today and they were sootie/black along with the connection on the boots; cleaned boots and replaced plugs. Since I was there i should check my battery it cranks below 10.5V...
It is running rich; it has a power commander on it. Just really dreaded having to open everything up and here we are lolThat a rich condition
Probably need to program that thing.It is running rich; it has a power commander on it. Just really dreaded having to open everything up and here we are lol
Depending on how they looked, I'd strongly consider booking an appointment at a mechanic out there and pre-ordering the tires. That way you know that Tues afternoon you have an address and time to get swapped quickly and back on the road. Having severely worn tires and being grounded for days waiting for them to arrive and get put on would suck.Battlax T33s have about 6200km on 'em right now. 'Might have 6600km by the time I take off for BC which is about a 4200km ride for me so...
By the time I get to the Okanagan they'll at least have 10,800km on ''em...
Do I change 'em out there or risk coming half way home on slicks...
Or... Do I change 'em now and start the trip on fresh shoes..?
First world problems... I know![]()
Hopefully it stranded you before doing damage to the hub.So ... yesterday ... my ZX10R stranded me. Evidently stock wheel bearings last 159 071 km. Rear wheel bearing let the rear wheel start going wibbly-wobbly with no warning, and it now makes crunching noises when moving. Fortunately this happened on a ride out with buddies, shout out to "The Bachelor" for giving me a lift home, and I collected the bike with the van last night, and it is now up on stands in the shop.
This morning, because I know someone who works at an industrial supply place, I looked up the bearings and sent him a note, and I now have a set of NSK bearings in hand. I'm going to replace all of them.
If you mean for the bearing to bottom out on when pressed in, punch it out from the opposite side. I had a similar problem on my narrow 990 sprocket carrier with a shoulder in the center of the carrier but also a captive floating spacer sandwiched between the two bearings. No way to punch it out because of clearance, and bearing pullers failed. Only way was to pull out the bearing cage to pop out the balls until the inner race fell out, which let the spacer come out and give clearance to use a punch to push out the opposite bearing, then turn over and punch out the remaining outer race.Yeah I just took it apart. Problem at the moment is that there's a lip inboard of the bearing that's smaller than the outer race, and I haven't figured out a way to extract it.