Fired the Wing up to change the oil and found it's only running on 3 cylinders. Spark is not the problem. Must have a gummed up carb. Will finally learn how hard(?) it is to get the carbs off.
What did you do in your garage today..?
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Bag looks good. I'd just leave it on (maybe spray some protectant on it so it doesn't fade).
I think it looks good. It has purpose. If there is one on the muffler side, it will be shorter and odd looking (mind you we haven't seen the rider) 
Priller
Well-known member
It's a commuter bag mostly used to hold my laptop, notebook and rain jacket when I ride to the office, nowhere near big enough to do any touring. Just saves me having to wear a backpack, really. A second bag would be unnecessary, and as noted by @Sunday Rider , wouldn't fit with the relatively high exhaust on the other side. If it was a hard bag, it would look truly silly, but it's essentially a messenger bag hung from the seat, so works for me.
The intent was I could essentially use it as a bag that I could mount to the bike, and go to meetings etc. without having to unload it every time. I'm going to experiment with it more to see if I can simplify the removal/install process. I'm hoping with some use, the nylon softens up a bit and the hooks are easier to remove. As it stands, getting the top two s-hooks out is a bit of a wrestling match...
As for the rider being short and odd-looking, the former is not the case but the latter can be confirmed by my wife...
The intent was I could essentially use it as a bag that I could mount to the bike, and go to meetings etc. without having to unload it every time. I'm going to experiment with it more to see if I can simplify the removal/install process. I'm hoping with some use, the nylon softens up a bit and the hooks are easier to remove. As it stands, getting the top two s-hooks out is a bit of a wrestling match...
As for the rider being short and odd-looking, the former is not the case but the latter can be confirmed by my wife...
Turns out the carbs come off an old wing reasonably easy when there is no fairing or underseat gas tank. Popped the floats bowls off and nothing out of place. I expected a rubber diaphram under the top cap but the manual seems to show something else. I'll find out after lunch when they come apart.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Easy to get off. Tricky to rebuild and setup.
Can the Lamtto be operated with regular riding gloves or do they need to be equipped with those electrostatic special treatment gloves or bare fingers.
One of the reasons I like Garmin is you can use any glove with it, just pressure is needed.
Priller
Well-known member
It's the same as a phone (capacitive, I think?), and needs treated gloves or gloves with conductive finger tips included.
I've experimented with the liquid you soak into leather, but it wears off and need constant reapplication. I've heard good things about conductive thread being sewn into a fingertip, but have avoided it myself. My solution is almost every glove manufacturer sells gloves with touchscreen pads on the index fingers these days, so I just make sure to buy gloves with those included. It's pretty clunky, but no more clunky than the resistive screens, and works much better on the bigger dedicated display than it did when I had a phone on a mount. Just don't expect to be able to effectively type with gloves on.
The flip side is if you have a headset in, you can use voice commands to get that stuff done much more easily anyway. Typing while you ride is crazy.
Thanks for clarifying. I may try the thread as the gloves I love to ride with are old without this feature. I want to be able to touch an icon while riding or touch a part on the Goodle map to expand etc. . I can barely one finger type while driving, can't imagine on a bike, I'd just pull over.
I am so old school my headset is an Autocomm, which I've taken out and looking to maybe modernize or ride without. I usually ride alone and don't use comms.
I have no idea how sticky or long lasting these are. They are very cheap though. Something like this or buy a set of XL thin conductive gloves, cut the fingers off and slid over your index finger on your riding glove should be easier than sewing your glove.
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I popped the tops off the two carbs and nothing looked amiss. I swapped the float needle and seat along with the floats on the #2 and #4, then reinstalled them.
Still not firing #2.
Pulled the carbs again. This time before pouring out the gas I opened #2 float bowl drain and gas poured out. So it appears to be getting gas, has functioning float, and the jets don't look gunked up at all.
I'll check the compression before I take a second poke at the carb. The four carb bodies attach to a central airbox. It's not bad to pull the bowl and top but separating the carbs looks like a chore.
Still not firing #2.
Pulled the carbs again. This time before pouring out the gas I opened #2 float bowl drain and gas poured out. So it appears to be getting gas, has functioning float, and the jets don't look gunked up at all.
I'll check the compression before I take a second poke at the carb. The four carb bodies attach to a central airbox. It's not bad to pull the bowl and top but separating the carbs looks like a chore.
I know you said spark is fine. After checking that compression is good, Can you access carb throat while engine is running? If yes, unlit propane torch on full blast in the throat of #2. If it fires, you have a fueling issue. If it doesn't, I wouldnt rule out spark. If you can't get a torch in the throat, you can squirt some fuel in the throat and that should be enough to get it to fire.
I swapped the plug, then changed the leads on the coils and swapped the HT lines effectivly operating 1/3 with the orig 2/4 coil and leads. No issues the #2 cylinder still cool.
Are you sure you are getting the signal to fire #2? That wouldn't be ruled out by that test.
???? In this test if spark was the issue a different cylinder would be not firing and cool.
Something about that green I really like. Reminds me of '50s car colours.
If this schematic is correct and input signal was missing (or at the wrong time), coil, plug and wire swap would not identify the issue.
