What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 147 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

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bakaboy said:
Starting the plan to renovate an old tractor shed into a new heated garage

50'x28'

Shed was built in 1958
Dirt floor presently
Steel siding is showing its age. Going to strip it all off, insulate etc.

What features should I plan for?
Click to expand...
Depending on how extensive a renovation, budget and location, the following may be on my list.

Accessory dwelling unit above

Storage loft above

Beam for sliding hoist (or chainfall)

Mini-split for most heat (cheap to operate and bonus of a/c, also can use two or more heads so Adu and shop are serviced by one exterior unit) probably gas fired heat for fast temp changes or emergency heat.

Two and four posts lifts both come in handy
If you plan on doing much welding/grinding a separate area (can be welding curtains if they are high). The amount of crap that comes off those activities is incredible.

A system to ventilate quickly and easily if you fill it with smoke/fumes (normally need something high as garage doors only ventilate the bottom well

Separate compartment for air compressor and dust collector (probably external shed attached to wall)

I may come up with more later.
 
bakaboy said:
Starting the plan to renovate an old tractor shed into a new heated garage

50'x28'

Shed was built in 1958
Dirt floor presently
Steel siding is showing its age. Going to strip it all off, insulate etc.

What features should I plan for?
Click to expand...
Doors.

I have a 40X60 steel clad pole barn that was built in the early 70's. It presently has 2 large sliding doors - 14X14 and 16X14 (14 ft. ceiling height). The old sliding doors are in good condition but are heavy and allow snow and crap to blow in under them. I'd like to put in a couple roll up doors but it hasn't been a priority though I might do it next summer. I put in the concrete floor in 2008 or so but haven't insulated it though I plan to create a smaller insulated workshop space within as I don't need that much insulated space.

Also you might be tempted to install some skylights if you're covering the roof in metal sheeting. From my experience they fail a lot sooner than you'd expect. Speaking with the roofing guy, it's not a matter of if but when either the adhesive fails and allows the wind to catch the material or the UV deteriorates the material far enough that it fails on its own.
 
Mad Mike said:
I always thought these were screw extractors. I’ve used them countless times when removing corroded and stripped bronze and stainless screws on boats.

They are almost useless on rusted bolts and studs
Click to expand...

I have had to extract a few broken manifold studs on LS motors with a mig, tac enough onto broken stud and the heat helps free it and turns out with ease with some vise grips.
 
xrljoel said:
Also you might be tempted to install some skylights if you're covering the roof in metal sheeting. From my experience they fail a lot sooner than you'd expect. Speaking with the roofing guy, it's not a matter of if but when either the adhesive fails and allows the wind to catch the material or the UV deteriorates the material far enough that it fails on its own.
Click to expand...
On the skylight front, that depends on budget. A friend installed skylights with sloped glass (looked like a hip roof house on the roof). That gives the glazing lots of slope and allows for relatively simple and comprehensive flashing. Very few points are relying on adhesive for water. They were way more expensive than I would ever pay though.

Something like this but smaller and simpler.
311a.jpg
 
GreyGhost said:
On the skylight front, that depends on budget. A friend installed skylights with sloped glass (looked like a hip roof house on the roof). That gives the glazing lots of slope and allows for relatively simple and comprehensive flashing. Very few points are relying on adhesive for water. They were way more expensive than I would ever pay though.

Something like this but smaller and simpler.
311a.jpg
Click to expand...
Very nice, but as you say BUDGET.
 
Fired up my old wood bandsaw for the first time since the 90s, forgot how relaxing it is to work with wood instead of steel.

Made a few trinkets for my crafty wife to decorate.


IMG_0468.jpeg
 
What do you all use to get rid of sap off the car? Just got out of the wash and noticed a poo didn’t get washed off…checked and it’s sap.
 
mimico_polak said:
What do you all use to get rid of sap off the car? Just got out of the wash and noticed a poo didn’t get washed off…checked and it’s sap.
Click to expand...
Mineral spirits, rubbing alcohol, etc. Put a bit on a qtip to test which one dissolves it well. Upgrade to microfiber cloth for faster removal.
 
oioioi said:
View attachment 64256

Not sure Why these "extractors" were ever invented.
I don't think I have ever had one work as advertised.
Click to expand...
This style extractor is best used for removing broken pipe fittings. Nothing works better on snapped off brass air line fittings or broken plastic manifold fittings.

A close second for pipe fittings are the extractors that look like a square bar with a slight twist in them.
 
bakaboy said:
Starting the plan to renovate an old tractor shed into a new heated garage

50'x28'

Shed was built in 1958
Dirt floor presently
Steel siding is showing its age. Going to strip it all off, insulate etc.

What features should I plan for?
Click to expand...
If I had that kind of building and space, I'd split it into two sections, 40x28 and 18x28 with an insulated rollup and mandoor between. The big section would be for my garage, a simple setup designed to store cars, bikes and toys. Probably add a service hoist ceiling heights permitted. General items:
  • Heat. First choice would be a 2-zone mini-split heat pump (I like AC in the shop). I'd heat the workshop to a comfortable temp, and the garage part only when needed. 2nd choice would be a Drolet wood-fired furnace.
  • 100A service (60A min)
  • concrete floor
  • Lots of Hi-bay LED lighting
The smaller section would be my workshop. Keeps the grime away from where my good stuff is sheltered and easier to heat/cool and light.
  • 12' insulated rollup and a mandoor to the outside world
  • Fully insulated
  • Overhead gantry
  • 2 post 10,000lb car hoist and a bike lift
  • Workbench along one side, stationary tools (compressor, welder, saws, brakes etc)
  • 4x4 washroom with a sink and toilet. Connected to septic or use a greywater pit and composting toilet, use in-wall electric heat for freeze prevention if the rest of the building is only heated when used.
The bigger section would be my garage area - a place to store my cars and bikes..
  • 12' insulated rollup and a mandoor to the outside world
  • 2 big windows
  • I wouldn't likely insulate the storage part, I'd prefer to spend on making the workshop part comfortable
You mention the steel siding is rough, you can wire wheel the surface rust off and repaint with Tremclad or Rustoleum. What's the reason for stripping off the siding? Can you not insulate from the inside?

Just dreaming....
 
Mad Mike said:
If I had that kind of building and space, I'd split it into two sections, 40x28 and 18x28 with an insulated rollup and mandoor between. The big section would be for my garage, a simple setup designed to store cars, bikes and toys. Probably add a service hoist ceiling heights permitted. General items:
  • Heat. First choice would be a 2-zone mini-split heat pump (I like AC in the shop). I'd heat the workshop to a comfortable temp, and the garage part only when needed. 2nd choice would be a Drolet wood-fired furnace.
  • 100A service (60A min)
  • concrete floor
  • Lots of Hi-bay LED lighting
The smaller section would be my workshop. Keeps the grime away from where my good stuff is sheltered and easier to heat/cool and light.
  • 12' insulated rollup and a mandoor to the outside world
  • Fully insulated
  • Overhead gantry
  • 2 post 10,000lb car hoist and a bike lift
  • Workbench along one side, stationary tools (compressor, welder, saws, brakes etc)
  • 4x4 washroom with a sink and toilet. Connected to septic or use a greywater pit and composting toilet, use in-wall electric heat for freeze prevention if the rest of the building is only heated when used.
The bigger section would be my garage area - a place to store my cars and bikes..
  • 12' insulated rollup and a mandoor to the outside world
  • 2 big windows
  • I wouldn't likely insulate the storage part, I'd prefer to spend on making the workshop part comfortable
You mention the steel siding is rough, you can wire wheel the surface rust off and repaint with Tremclad or Rustoleum. What's the reason for stripping off the siding? Can you not insulate from the inside?

Just dreaming....
Click to expand...
I have a composting toilet. I wouldn't get another one. They need a steady flow of waste to keep working. For a toilet without sewage, I would be cartridge all the way. Dump the dry brick of waste occasionally and that's it.
 
ReSTored said:
FYI

IMO Costco has a great deal on 4' LED lights.


Delivery price is $50 - 8 = $42 net. Warehouse price is $40 - $8 = $32 net. On sale unti l17/12.

I picked up a bunch of these at the store for the garage and basement.
Click to expand...

I have two of them and have been waiting for them to go on sale to get more. They're great for the price, and I find the motion sensor convenient. One thing I noticed, they don't handle brief power outages well, so if the power glitches they need to be reset by disconnecting and reconnecting the plugs. That might be a hassle if they're up high, but then you could also flip you breaker for a few seconds.
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