I forgot what the problem was here. You couldn't get the old rotor off yourself? What method did your guy use?
What did you do in your garage today..?
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I forgot what the problem was here. You couldn't get the old rotor off yourself? What method did your guy use?
Your axle is likely mounted below the leaf springs as standard, but flipping the shackles around and mounting it above the springs will lower the deck of the trailer by a couple of inches. That lowering can make loading and unloading much more comfortable, regardless of what ramp(s) you've got. If it's low enough, you may not even need the second ramp to walk up.
sburns
Well-known member
I thought you might be interested in this. Yes exactly I couldn't even turn any of the bolts.
All he did was bang the bit into the bolts with a couple of taps with a mallet. Then held the tire between his legs and turned each one with a socket wrench. No heat nothing. Cleaned up bolt holes in wheel, done.
He didn't charge me much and I felt better instead of fighting with it and possibly breaking a bolt in the wheel.
After seeing it done. I believe the impact driver tool would have worked. Next time.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
You can try aluminum brazing. It's super easy, I fix cracked case covers, beat-up aluminum props with the stuff.Hmmm interesting idea. I have a spare, but if I keep having a problems with this bracket I need to figure out a longer term solution. That could be a option. Thx
You can Benzomatic get rods at CTC (about $4 each), or el cheapo rods off Ali, or Amazon. The cheapo rods work, but they are a bit finicky as they need a touch more heat.
First pics is the bracket on the rear. It's aluminum angle with slots I drilled/jigsawed.
The second is my ramp with a piece angle iron screwed to the bottom with a slot cut in it. (don't ask why I did two slots when one is all that's needed - I don't even know myself)
The angle on the ramp hooks over the front of my trailer and a single bolt then holds it easily in place.
Super easy to build.
Not sure if my ramp is 2x8 or 2x10. Easy going up. But gotta watch when backing down that the rear tire stays on (until close to the bottom).
The second is my ramp with a piece angle iron screwed to the bottom with a slot cut in it. (don't ask why I did two slots when one is all that's needed - I don't even know myself)
The angle on the ramp hooks over the front of my trailer and a single bolt then holds it easily in place.
Super easy to build.
Not sure if my ramp is 2x8 or 2x10. Easy going up. But gotta watch when backing down that the rear tire stays on (until close to the bottom).
Attachments
That’s a pretty slick design @timtune. Simple and effective is the best way.
Was at PA today and they had a nice roll out ramp…$330. I passed.
FYI PA on Dixie is clearing out their ammo boxes. I bought all that was left of the metal ones today. Stock was very low and only plastic ones remained.
Was at PA today and they had a nice roll out ramp…$330. I passed.
FYI PA on Dixie is clearing out their ammo boxes. I bought all that was left of the metal ones today. Stock was very low and only plastic ones remained.
matt365
Well-known member
Checked the valves on my gsxr project.
.003-.007 intake
.007-.011 exhaust
They're all "technically" in spec... with one intake valve at .003" and a couple exhaust at .007
I'm already this far. Might as well put them at least in the middle of spec.
Pain in the ass to get this far.
Move the rad forward.
Throttle bodies off.
Disconnect all the electrical connectors in the way.
Remove the PAIR valve. (Capped everything while I was in there).
Clean as much as I can.
Di-electric grease every connector as they go back together.
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
.003-.007 intake
.007-.011 exhaust
They're all "technically" in spec... with one intake valve at .003" and a couple exhaust at .007
I'm already this far. Might as well put them at least in the middle of spec.
Pain in the ass to get this far.
Move the rad forward.
Throttle bodies off.
Disconnect all the electrical connectors in the way.
Remove the PAIR valve. (Capped everything while I was in there).
Clean as much as I can.
Di-electric grease every connector as they go back together.
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
cruiserider
Well-known member
Since I can't find my trailer thread I had a quesiton...
I have the folding 4x8 trailer and I previously mentioned I'm not comfortable going up/down the skinny folding ramps I bought at CT.
Have a stupid idea to BUILD a ramp for it and was wondering if anyone's done something similar. I'll be upgrading the floor / sides and trying to get the lights going this month...but not sure if there's an option to build a ramp that swings down and lets the bike up?
Similar to this trailer I found on Kijiji...
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This would be the better option, but my welding skills are lacking...
View attachment 54286
There's always this option....
but where to keep it when the bike is on the trailer?
Check the Stirling trailers website, you can buy complete rear ramp/gate with mounting hardware for around 200 bucks. Not sure how much modifications it would require to fit your trailer and if you are willing to spend that much. They are located in Beamsville and offer local pick up as well.
Gates (Rear & Front) - Page 1 - Westbrook Trailer Parts
www.westbrooktrailerparts.com
View attachment 54313
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
Should check to make sure those gates are capable of supporting the weight of whatever bike you're pushing or riding up it. Take into account the bike weight + your weight as well.
I could be wrong, but those gates look okay for holding stuff inside the trailer, but too flimsy to support 600+ lbs of bike + rider.
Also check the angle of the ramp. If the gate is too short, it'll be a fairly steep push to get the bike up to the trailer. That, and you may bottom out the bike at the top. Most trailer ramps are longer and curved at the top to avoid this issue.
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Relax
Well-known member
He already has ramps, but prefers a wider platform to walk the bike up on.
@mimico_polak which ramps did you get from CT, and what makes you uncomfortable with them? Are they not stable enough?
There are the ramps I have....
General PDP Template
www.canadiantire.ca
The only problem for me is that I'm only 5'7 and I'm not comfortable / stable enough to push them up myself.
GTAM has provided me some tips on getting the bike up, but it was over winter so I didn't try them out.
I'd like a stable and solid platform, so can just make life easier / safer. I had the bike fall off on me once when I was putting it onto the Trailer-In-A-Bag and while I was able to lift it up again solo...I don't want to go through that again.
I think an 8ft 2x10 or 2x12 will make a nice ramp for my needs. Would probably need to reinforce it with a 2x4 underneath for rigidity purposes...but it would be more stable than what I have now.
EDIT: Saw this at PA yesterday....snazzy. Pricy. https://www.princessauto.com/en/65-x-26-in-roll-up-aluminum-ramp/product/PA0008934630
EDIT2: Something like this would be more stable than what I have... Polaris Tri-Fold Loading Ramp | ATV Parts, Trailers & Accessories | Oshawa / Durham Region | Kijiji
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Relax
Well-known member
There are the ramps I have....
General PDP Template
The only problem for me is that I'm only 5'7 and I'm not comfortable / stable enough to push them up myself.
GTAM has provided me some tips on getting the bike up, but it was over winter so I didn't try them out.
I'd like a stable and solid platform, so can just make life easier / safer. I had the bike fall off on me once when I was putting it onto the Trailer-In-A-Bag and while I was able to lift it up again solo...I don't want to go through that again.
I think an 8ft 2x10 or 2x12 will make a nice ramp for my needs. Would probably need to reinforce it with a 2x4 underneath for rigidity purposes...but it would be more stable than what I have now.
EDIT: Saw this at PA yesterday....snazzy. Pricy. https://www.princessauto.com/en/65-x-26-in-roll-up-aluminum-ramp/product/PA0008934630
Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but if your current ramps are 12" wide, how would going to 2x10's or 2x12's be any better?
Wood ramps have a solid base that I can walk on much easier than the aluminum ones with gaps.
Also, the ones I have arch up considerably at the front to make the rise easier (it does not).
@timtune this is what I need to try this month once I get the bike back together.
I assume you mean have the bike running and in gear then walk it up the ramp as opposed to "JUST GIVE 'ER!!!" which could have a less than satisfactory outcome.
This is the ramp I have/had.
www.canadiantire.ca
800lb capacity, folds, steel mesh so it’s easy to walk on. Goes on sale often ($50 on sale when I bought mine). Maybe it’s a cheaper option that’ll work for you.
Prime Steel Mesh Power Sport Loading Ramp, 80-in | Canadian Tire
Prime Steel Mesh Power Sport Loading Ramp provides a convenient way to load and unload equpiment into your truck | Canadian Tire
Maybe I'm just an idiot that can't balance a bike on a narrow strip of metal.This is the ramp I have/had.
800lb capacity, folds, steel mesh so it’s easy to walk on. Goes on sale often ($50 on sale when I bought mine). Maybe it’s a cheaper option that’ll work for you.Prime Steel Mesh Power Sport Loading Ramp, 80-in | Canadian Tire
Prime Steel Mesh Power Sport Loading Ramp provides a convenient way to load and unload equpiment into your truck | Canadian Tire
