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Vintage Audio Gear - AV Home Theatre

constrained by stand/room size and impulse buying
10 inch powered Yamaha sub

this is why I started off thinking vintage
fok.............there is no end to this 7.2 ****
 
constrained by stand/room size and impulse buying
10 inch powered Yamaha sub

this is why I started off thinking vintage
fok.............there is no end to this 7.2 ****

you've got 4 more channels to fill up now still.
 
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I'm still running a Yamaha RX-V2065 (HTR-6295) bi-amped on some Design Reference PS2262 towers (rebadged Advent AS2's) and a DR S112PS sub. Not super vintage but getting up there.
I've just started trying to educate myself on up-to-date home audio gear. Building a house and want HT on the main floor with ability to turn on and stream music using phone app on this system as well as have sound in the lower level, garage, and patio with ability to run all or just one zone at a time. Considering inwall/ceiling speakers in the zones not including HT area (not interested in running Atmos). Sonos/HEOS/Play-Fi are also options and as well I have to decide on what app will be best to control things as well as either Alexa or Google smart systems.
 
I'm still running a Yamaha RX-V2065 (HTR-6295) bi-amped on some Design Reference PS2262 towers (rebadged Advent AS2's) and a DR S112PS sub. Not super vintage but getting up there.
I've just started trying to educate myself on up-to-date home audio gear. Building a house and want HT on the main floor with ability to turn on and stream music using phone app on this system as well as have sound in the lower level, garage, and patio with ability to run all or just one zone at a time. Considering inwall/ceiling speakers in the zones not including HT area (not interested in running Atmos). Sonos/HEOS/Play-Fi are also options and as well I have to decide on what app will be best to control things as well as either Alexa or Google smart systems.
Depending on your budget, make sure you look at Control4 too. It is probably the best residential control system (and most expensive). If you have questions, talk to Update TV and Stereo, they are helpful (I have no affiliation with them).
 
HW13

have a look at Plex to handle your streaming library
I'm really happy with it on server and client ends
 
Depending on your budget, make sure you look at Control4 too. It is probably the best residential control system (and most expensive). If you have questions, talk to Update TV and Stereo, they are helpful (I have no affiliation with them).
Yeah that's above my intended budget.
 
still testing this system
speakers/amp don't hit the sweet spot until quite loud
thinking the sub will hep with this

another observation after listening to tunes
through either headphones or a speaker dock for over a decade

recent music while generally sucking large ones
is also built for a phone or a blue tooth dock

there is very little use of stereo anymore
this is strikes me as illogical as humans have 2 ears
and it sounds like ****
 
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still testing this system
speakers/amp don't hit the sweet spot until quite loud
thinking the sub will hep with this

another observation after listening to tunes
through either headphones or a speaker dock for over a decade

recent music while generally sucking large ones
is also built for a phone or a blue tooth dock

there is very little use of stereo anymore
this is strikes me as illogical as humans have 2 ears
and it sounds like ****
Napster did it.
 
still testing this system
speakers/amp don't hit the sweet spot until quite loud
thinking the sub will hep with this

another observation after listening to tunes
through either headphones or a speaker dock for over a decade

recent music while generally sucking large ones
is also built for a phone or a blue tooth dock

there is very little use of stereo anymore
this is strikes me as illogical as humans have 2 ears
and it sounds like ****

Music has been deemed to have little to no value. What did we expect to happen when we took it for free?
 
When you set up the sub make sure and double check polarity on the speakers vs sub, that they match the sub (again cancellation)...

Another trick to set up the sub, play some music you like with good consistent base (maybe a few different selections), have the mains turned down so you are listening to the sub (also try off). Put the sub on the floor where you will be listening for this testing (like in front of the couch). Crawl around (sliding on your back is even better) on the floor, into the corners, spouse approved locations, etc. and find where the bass sounds best to you (maybe find a couple/few options). When you find that sweet spot(s), that is likely the best location for the sub. As most people do not have fancy test equipment this method works very well. You can then try a couple of the sweet spots you found to experiment further.

The bass below 100 Hz is not directional to your ears so it does not need to be centred in the sound stage etc. but the room acoustics will play a big part in how it sounds, so the location does matter--and it may not be totally intuitive.
 
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When you set up the sub make sure and double check polarity on the speakers vs sub, that they match the sub (again cancellation)...

Another trick to set up the sub, play some music you like with good consistent base (maybe a few different selections), have the mains turned down so you are listening to the sub (also try off). Put the sub on the floor where you will be listening for this testing (like in front of the couch). Crawl around (sliding on your back is even better) on the floor, into the corners, spouse approved locations, etc. and find where the bass sounds best to you (maybe find a couple/few options). When you find that sweet spot(s), that is likely the best location for the sub. As most people do not have fancy test equipment this method works very well. You can then try a couple of the sweet spots you found to experiment further.

The bass below 100 Hz is not directional to your ears so it does not need to be centred in the sound stage etc. but the room acoustics will play a big part in how it sounds, so the location does matter--and it may not be totally intuitive.
I use a slightly different method. Put the sub where you head will be and then crawl around with your head at the height the sub will sit. Put the sub in a good sounding spot (that may pass spouse approval).

I havent tried the sub at the feet of the sitting position which is obviously easier to setup, but I wouldnt expect it to be the same result as the sub at ear level.
 
Your way is actually better (more accurate) but you will need to build something (that will not resonate, etc.) to get it at ear height. Just sitting it on the couch usually won't work for obvious reasons, specially if it is down firing! A table or cabinet may resonate quite a bit throwing things off.

I use the floor, I am pretty lazy. The wavelengths we are talking about are metres long so there is some margin for error and some fine adjustment afterwards.

Either way it is a solid method!
 
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still testing this system
speakers/amp don't hit the sweet spot until quite loud
thinking the sub will hep with this

another observation after listening to tunes
through either headphones or a speaker dock for over a decade

recent music while generally sucking large ones
is also built for a phone or a blue tooth dock

there is very little use of stereo anymore
this is strikes me as illogical as humans have 2 ears
and it sounds like ****

True that. I like listening to singers...real singers. Hard to find anything not fed through autotune these days. I also like talented musicians. I went to a concert a few years ago and the guy pressed a button on a bank of computer equipment and that was basically it.
 
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True that. I like listening to singers...real singers. Hard to find anything not fed through autotune these days. I also like talented musicians. I went to a concert a few years ago and the guy pressed a button on a bank of computer equipment and that was basically it.
I miss analog consoles. I quit mixing around the time digital consoles became popular. I get the appeal (especially in size and weight), but there is nothing like jumping to the end of a console to quickly fix an instrument.
 
When you set up the sub make sure and double check polarity on the speakers vs sub, that they match the sub (again cancellation)...

Another trick to set up the sub, play some music you like with good consistent base (maybe a few different selections), have the mains turned down so you are listening to the sub (also try off). Put the sub on the floor where you will be listening for this testing (like in front of the couch). Crawl around (sliding on your back is even better) on the floor, into the corners, spouse approved locations, etc. and find where the bass sounds best to you (maybe find a couple/few options). When you find that sweet spot(s), that is likely the best location for the sub. As most people do not have fancy test equipment this method works very well. You can then try a couple of the sweet spots you found to experiment further.

The bass below 100 Hz is not directional to your ears so it does not need to be centred in the sound stage etc. but the room acoustics will play a big part in how it sounds, so the location does matter--and it may not be totally intuitive.
Sub doesn't have to match polarity of mains. In fact having it opposite may put it in phase to the mains depending on the location of the listener.
Put the sub in a location that suits the enclosure design and is hopefully convenient. If after a good listen the bass seems weak or just not right then switch the polarity of the sub (if it has a switch on the sub or receiver for this go ahead, otherwise just switch terminals) then have another listen of the same material. If that doesn't right it and you don't have processing options then you'll have to find new sub locations.
 
While you want to tune the listener position as @Hardwrkr13 mentions, I still agree with @backmarkerducati in that enthusiast systems will want to match the sub phase. My premium twin 12 inch driver HT sub is the size of a large arm height end-table and it can go to 16 Hz flat (running +3 dB hot) in a large room to reference levels
wink.gif
; it has a 9 position phase dial switch whereby the goal is to match the phase of the sub to the speakers. This is done because a low hz parametric EQ is then also used to balance the low frequency response of the sub... in the listener position as mentioned. Many high end subs and/or receivers can have this capability, examples include Audyssey (Denon and Marantz), DIRAC (Arcam and NAD), ARC (Anthem), YPAO (Yamaha), MCACC (Pioneer Elite), etc. The more 0-200 Hz adjustment parameters the better.

Subwoofer frequency response balancing can also be done the old school way using an analogue parametric EQ separate (with lots of adjustment). I have an older system that uses one; it didn't cost too much and it has 11 adjustments between 0 and 200 Hz. It really works well to help give a great flat overall frequency subwoofer response in watching movies and listening to music. Even a lot of the indie music I listen to has an impressive amount of low frequency response that a quality system can reproduce. A separate analogue parametric EQ is also typically used to correct for frequency-specific room resonances (aka room correction).

This thread has veered into audiophile territory on a number of fronts now. I highly recommend reading the audiophile thread here...The audiophile thread. It's full of great information. Check out Canuckaudiomart on that thread. The stereo and HT gear for sale used is impressive and there's lots of vintage stuff; even $75 garage finds. Lots of good audiophile talk there too... and people here on CAM. HT and music systems don't have to be a very pricey club.

FWIW, anyone who can stretch to $2000 and wants a 2 channel system system can build something quite impressive from going to the used Canadian audio market. Check out this interesting suggestion thread on the Canuckaudiomart forum. The recommendations are across the scale and my posts is very detailed... it's the best way in my experience to build a good start at a two channel system and is a good thread read.
Plan a $2000 system - Speakers • Canuck Audio Mart Hifi and Audio Forum

I would do that before I'd buy any sub... those speakers are impressively full size with a flat frequency response down to 31 Hz +-3dB. And look at the weight of those Energy C-9's
happy112.gif
. Very impressive full response speakers. And all the prices are from 5 years ago... so many of the components I listed are probably even less expensive now.

Big topics. Cheers

[EDIT: fixed]
 
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sub input is a single RCA cable
no options to reverse the polarity on that

edit: got into the amp setup and have sub reversed now
does sound better like this
can't explain how, just better

thanks for the tip!
 
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We've made quite the quantum leap from vintage audio and flea market finds to 7.2 channel systems and programable subs.
Back to the Future!!
 

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