Removing stuck hardware | Page 4 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Removing stuck hardware

Anddd its out!

I dont know if it was the soaking in penetrating oil overnight, or the new cold chisels I bought, but its finally out!
I tried initially with the punch and screw driver, nothing, then as soon as I tried with the cold chisel, it started moving, 1/8" of an inch, and then with
enough hits more and more until it was finally free!(spread out over the different sides)

Didnt even have to use the dremel

I was being pretty cautious but still ended up with a few scratches on the stem

https://imgur.com/noKgW91
 
bigpoppa said:
Anddd its out!

I dont know if it was the soaking in penetrating oil overnight, or the new cold chisels I bought, but its finally out!
I tried initially with the punch and screw driver, nothing, then as soon as I tried with the cold chisel, it started moving, 1/8" of an inch, and then with
enough hits more and more until it was finally free!(spread out over the different sides)

Didnt even have to use the dremel

I was being pretty cautious but still ended up with a few scratches on the stem

https://imgur.com/noKgW91
Click to expand...
Make sure you clean up the stem and face of the triple before you reassemble. I'm glad you got it out but you dinged places I would not want to ding.
 
I would still cut a notch in the old race to do a test fit once you clean up the stem, make sure it sits flat and doesn't catch anything.
 
so the head bearings are done, put the stem and everything back in together, everything greased etc

On to the fork rebuild, I loosened to damper rod bolt and fork cap while it was still clamped in, I figured since all the weight was on the damper rod (because none of the components and old oil have been removed), removing the damper rod bolt would be easy, but nope, its spinning in place, as is often the case..

What are my options?
Im thinking my only option is to remove everything, take the fork apart, and use the ol wooden broomstick method??
 
bigpoppa said:
so the head bearings are done, put the stem and everything back in together, everything greased etc

On to the fork rebuild, I loosened to damper rod bolt and fork cap while it was still clamped in, I figured since all the weight was on the damper rod (because none of the components and old oil have been removed), removing the damper rod bolt would be easy, but nope, its spinning in place, as is often the case..

What are my options?
Im thinking my only option is to remove everything, take the fork apart, and use the ol wooden broomstick method??
Click to expand...
I haven't looked specifically at that bike, but I often use an impact gun to undo things that want to spin. The impact is often enough to get things to loosen up and I've never broken anything as you only get a tiny hit of torque and then the rod will spin (basically torque is limited by the inertia of the rod).
 
never mind, turns out if you tighten the fork cap, it applies enough pressure to hold the damper rod in place and allow the bolt to come lose
Also im pretty sure the little copper washer that goes with the bolt is missing, I looked everywhere including the old oil, I can only guess the previous owner never bothered with it

Holy **** this stuff smells bad, I pumped the fork and it was like the worst case of explosive diarrhea ever
 
Also theres a tiny amount of surface rust on the fork leg right where the lower triple clamp holds it(the rust likely migrated from the triple clamp to the fork leg) i tried scrubbing it, just cleaned the fork leg, but the rust is still there

Should I just let the penetrating oil soak it and scrub it off with some towels tomorrow? Should I just a little bit of sand paper?
 
Minor surface corrosion outside of the travel path of the seals and guides is not a big problem. Go ahead and sand it off with emery cloth. I would be surprised if it takes any more than light sanding to clean it up.
 
bigpoppa said:
Also theres a tiny amount of surface rust on the fork leg right where the lower triple clamp holds it(the rust likely migrated from the triple clamp to the fork leg) i tried scrubbing it, just cleaned the fork leg, but the rust is still there

Should I just let the penetrating oil soak it and scrub it off with some towels tomorrow? Should I just a little bit of sand paper?
Click to expand...
Try Autosol if you have it. It normally makes fork leg rust disappear.
 
Or wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper and wd-40. Don't sand up and down, go around the tube.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
And are you sure the copper crush washer isn't in the bottom of the fork? Sounds like the previous owner never did any maintenance. I'd be surprised if they pulled out the damping rod and lost it.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
Rust is what is left of the material, it's not on the surface, it's a hole :| clean it up microscopic good and fill the holes.

If your stanchion tube gets damaged where the fork seals move, do the same thing, remove the high spots and fill the holes with aluminum/epoxy or even a clear hard nail polish, anything the seal can slide over and not be damaged, something that fills the holes so oil does not get pumped into the hole on every stroke. :geek: that would make it a fork leak.
 
Im almost done re assembling the leg, but I feel like the spring is too darn stiff, after I have put in the damper rod and the oil flow stopper, I try to put everything back in the correct order, but the spring is sticking out of the fork leg by like 3-4 inches, I can compress it some in an attempt to get the washer + spacer + fork cap in but god damn I feel like:

1) Either Im doing something wrong or

2) This requires a herculean amount of strength and I might end up breaking something if I push that darn hard

Help!
(I havent added the fork oil yet as Id like to tighten the damper rod bolt, but as it was spinning on its own I figured I can assemble the fork without the oil, tighten the bolt with all the weight, and then put the new fork oil in after the bolt has been screwed in)
 
bigpoppa said:
Im almost done re assembling the leg, but I feel like the spring is too darn stiff, after I have put in the damper rod and the oil flow stopper, I try to put everything back in the correct order, but the spring is sticking out of the fork leg by like 3-4 inches, I can compress it some in an attempt to get the washer + spacer + fork cap in but god damn I feel like:

1) Either Im doing something wrong or

2) This requires a herculean amount of strength and I might end up breaking something if I push that darn hard

Help!
Click to expand...
It's been a while, but the last time I reassembled motorcycle forks, I put the fork cap in a vise pointed to the side. That freed up bother hands to hold the tube, lean into in to compress the spring and twist. It was simple that way. Trying to put the cap down onto the leg was wobbly and a complete loser situation.
 
bigpoppa said:
Im almost done re assembling the leg, but I feel like the spring is too darn stiff, after I have put in the damper rod and the oil flow stopper, I try to put everything back in the correct order, but the spring is sticking out of the fork leg by like 3-4 inches, I can compress it some in an attempt to get the washer + spacer + fork cap in but god damn I feel like:

1) Either Im doing something wrong or

2) This requires a herculean amount of strength and I might end up breaking something if I push that darn hard

Help!
(I havent added the fork oil yet as Id like to tighten the damper rod bolt, but as it was spinning on its own I figured I can assemble the fork without the oil, tighten the bolt with all the weight, and then put the new fork oil in after the bolt has been screwed in)
Click to expand...
That don't sound right the shock damper bolt should be tight, when you took it apart at what point did you need to loosen it?
... are we attempting this without a shop manual?
 
Did you put the taper spindle in upside down?
 
Push the cap down with your left hand, and turn the tube.

Failing that, put the fork back in the triples to clamp it down, and use both hands to push it down.

As stated. Look through the shop manual to see that you assembled the fork properly. Its difficult, but shouldn't be that nad.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
Service manual says to add the oil and measure the level from the top before you even add the spring, you can't do that unless the bottom bolt is tight, the oil will leak out.
Download the free service manual
There is even a tube spacer above the spring in the parts manual/
 
Trials said:
Service manual says to add the oil and measure the level from the top before you even add the spring, you can't do that unless the bottom bolt is tight, the oil will leak out.
Download the free service manual
Click to expand...
Best to reassemble without oil to lock down the damping rod.

Then pull the cap, and the spring.

Add the approx. amount of oil. Mark the factory spec measured from the top of the tube with spring released (eg. 15mm) mark that measurement on a drinking straw with a piece of tape. Take out a bit of oil at a time intil they are at the desired height.

Or use 1/4" tubing and a farm syringe to suck out oil to the proper height.


Note: make sure you pump the damper rod when you pour the oil in. You have to bleed the air out of the rod.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
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