Removing stuck hardware

[Brian P]

One other thing. Provided that you have removed the fuel tank of the bike (easy to do, if you haven't already) and taken care of any possibility of spilled or leaking fuel (make sure the fuel lines are emptied out of anything that might leak or spill), given that you have now removed all rubber seals and other heat-sensitive parts from the area, I would not hesitate to use a propane torch to apply a little bit of heat to the area. (1) if the clamp bolts are Loctited in place, that can encourage the Loctite to move - heat up the area opposite the screw head, the part of the frame that will be threaded. (2) the aluminum of your frame will expand faster than the steel of the bearing race, encouraging it to let go, even if you can't get the clamp bolts out.

If you are worried about the open flame but have an electric heat gun, that'll work, too.

 

[bigpoppa]

Im def an overthinker, and yeah the frame is held together by special hardware for which I dont have the tool

 

[Wingboy]

One other thing. Provided that you have removed the fuel tank of the bike (easy to do, if you haven't already) and taken care of any possibility of spilled or leaking fuel (make sure the fuel lines are emptied out of anything that might leak or spill), given that you have now removed all rubber seals and other heat-sensitive parts from the area, I would not hesitate to use a propane torch to apply a little bit of heat to the area. (1) if the clamp bolts are Loctited in place, that can encourage the Loctite to move - heat up the area opposite the screw head, the part of the frame that will be threaded. (2) the aluminum of your frame will expand faster than the steel of the bearing race, encouraging it to let go, even if you can't get the clamp bolts out.

If you are worried about the open flame but have an electric heat gun, that'll work, too.

They may come out without loosening those pinch bolts, but it will be next to impossible to get new ones in without loosening them. The "door"will slam shut. Just sayin.

 

[regder]

They may come out without loosening those pinch bolts, but it will be next to impossible to get new ones in without loosening them. The "door"will slam shut. Just sayin.

I did the steering bearings on an FZ6, didn't touch the bolts, worked out fine.

 

[bigpoppa]

Its so annoying, the hittable surface on the bottom outer race is uneven (some parts of it have more room to tap, other parts dont) so its coming out uneven, I could just go gorilla and keep hammering the same spot over and over, will it come out? Or should I just keep trying to remove it evenly?

The spots where there is very little surface area for my screwdriver to sit on generally I can get 1 good tap before it slips, and then I have to realign the screwdriver and put it back on that same spot

I can tell half the race is coming out, the other half is kinda just sitting there...will I be able to pull the hole thing out with just one end in and one end out?

I am using the heatgun


Edit:

I've heard its aluminium and therefore one should try to remove the race evenly instead of just hitting on side and trying to take it out, any validity?

 

[GreyGhost]

Its so annoying, the hittable surface on the bottom outer race is uneven (some parts of it have more room to tap, other parts dont) so its coming out uneven, I could just go gorilla and keep hammering the same spot over and over, will it come out? Or should I just keep trying to remove it evenly?

The spots where there is very little surface area for my screwdriver to sit on generally I can get 1 good tap before it slips, and then I have to realign the screwdriver and put it back on that same spot

I can tell half the race is coming out, the other half is kinda just sitting there...will I be able to pull the hole thing out with just one end in and one end out?

I am using the heatgun


Edit:

I've heard its aluminium and therefore one should try to remove the race evenly instead of just hitting on side and trying to take it out, any validity?

Always try to evenly tap it out. The more you tap on one side, the tighter it gets in the hole. If you can get one tap on the awkward side, make sure it's a solid one. A punch or piece of round stock is normally easier to use than a screwdriver (round sits on a round face better and often a screwdriver handle absorbs a lot of your impact energy).

 

[Brian P]

DO NOT force it out crooked! You WILL distort the steering head if you do that. ALWAYS tap alternate sides to get it out evenly.

 

[Mad Mike]

Why are you removing it? Ive had a shitton of yamahas, never changed a head bearing race in 40 years.

 

[bigpoppa]

https://imgur.com/a/RvmSINU

anddd its out, turns out using the punch is way more effective than a screwdriver, doesnt slip off nearly as much

Why are you removing it? Ive had a shitton of yamahas, never changed a head bearing race in 40 years.

Service manual says so, besides the OEM kit comes with it so might as well

 

[Hack]

https://imgur.com/Mlw5eGt

Ugh... I hate even the looks of those castle nut spanners.
I use a castle nut socket for my steering head torqueing/servicing.... 'Best $40 I ever spent

 

[regder]

Why are you removing it? Ive had a shitton of yamahas, never changed a head bearing race in 40 years.

Yamaha did something wrong with the bearings on the FZ6. I forget if it was bad grease or a bad seal. Mine was an '06 and the bearings were rotted at 2 years old and 18k km's. I think they fixed the issue somewhere down the line.

 

[Mad Mike]

Yamaha did something wrong with the bearings on the FZ6. I forget if it was bad grease or a bad seal. Mine was an '06 and the bearings were rotted at 2 years old and 18k km's. I think they fixed the issue somewhere down the line.

Yikes. That triple ha a lot of corrosion, was the bike left outdoors all year? The bolts are oxidized, I see rust streaks in the fork tube area and those bearings look like the were submerged in salt water.

 

[regder]

Yikes. That triple ha a lot of corrosion, was the bike left outdoors all year? The bolts are oxidized, I see rust streaks in the fork tube area and those bearings look like the were submerged in salt water.

Nope on all accounts. Bought it used, but the previous owner barely rode it and parked it in his garage. I rode it in the rain, but otherwise stored dry. Bike was mint outside of the steering bearings.

Triple is just covered in bugs, that's just some rusty grease you're seeing on the steering tube and triple. Bolts are also standard Yamaha colour used on that bike.

If you google for it, you're going to see a ton more pics similar to mine. Replaced with All Balls and didn't touch them again for the 100k km's or so I put on it after replacement. As I said, Yamaha screwed something it.

My steering bearings at 14,500km

www.sportbikes.net

My steering head bearings are officially shot.

www.sportbikes.net

 

[Brian P]

I'm thinking they were too sparse with the amount of grease. I always load those bearings up with plenty of it.

 

[bigpoppa]

update:
Removed the top outer race

https://imgur.com/a0s98Cc

Pretty glad I got that bearing punch kit
Feel like if I started the bottom race with the punch instead of the screw driver, it would have been a lot quicker and more efficient as well

I take it when putting the new races in, heating with a hair dryer will help as well?

#Edit My bottom triple clamp has that surface rust as well right around where the fork tubes go, how do I remove it? @regder
Just steel wool or something?

 

[Brian P]

For installing the bearing races, put the bearing races in the freezer for an hour, and warm up the steering neck. Then be QUICK to get the frozen bearing races installed.

 

[GreyGhost]

update:
Removed the top outer race

https://imgur.com/a0s98Cc

Pretty glad I got that bearing punch kit
Feel like if I started the bottom race with the punch instead of the screw driver, it would have been a lot quicker and more efficient as well

I take it when putting the new races in, heating with a hair dryer will help as well?

#Edit My bottom triple clamp has that surface rust as well right around where the fork tubes go, how do I remove it? @regder
Just steel wool or something?

Hair dryer? I thought you were using a heat gun.

To make my life easier I freeze the small parts (race) and heat the big ones (frame).

 

[regder]

#Edit My bottom triple clamp has that surface rust as well right around where the fork tubes go, how do I remove it? @regder
Just steel wool or something?

Good work! Not sure I ever did remove it, I would think steel wool would work perfectly

 

[bigpoppa]

gonna be installing the new outer races today, if it goes well, I might even put in the new bearings

I noticed the inner race on the bottom of the steering stem looks clean and good, and since yesterday was a lot of work, I think i'll leave the old one in
and just put in the near bearings in

 

[boyoboy]

about the inner race, I think it's s good advice to change the bearings & races together - pretty much standard protocol. do it right and completely... once.

in the weird tool thread there is some pics of different race removing tools.

great thread!