Posi-tap connectors local source??
- Thread starter oioioi
- Start date
I think i do have some.They are junk.Do the job properly with real connectors. Electrical Connection – Lighting, electrical, and audio for the Powersports World. _____Est 1994_____
I have a 4 pack you can have.
They're just as a good as ANY other "vampire" wire tap... which isn't great... but JUNK?
One problem with ANY wire connection is oxidization, which these do nothing for. The concept came out of low voltage (telecom) wiring, and anyone with low voltage wiring experience would NEVER use them.
They beat the hell out of twisting the wires together and covering it up with black tape or a wire nut.
The ONLY "vampire" tap that passes inspection is 3M gel filled Scotch locks that have a blob of di-electric gel inside to seal the connection from air.
I like Amp Superseal. Work great, easy to use... looks SUPREMELY stupid on a vintage bike.
TK4
Well-known member
I just ordered some of these, will let you know how it works out.
solderstick.com
Waterproof Wire Connectors Kit | SolderStick
Durable waterproof wire connectors for safe, watertight connections. Ideal for electrical applications. Shop SolderStick connectors now.
solderstick.com
I know the are not ideal but I am just trying to do a temporary fix and will revisit the wiring situation in the off season.
I will let you know if I will take the pack off your hands (see below)
Thanks for the hint. Now that I think about it I have some of the 3M Scotchlok connectors. They may not be gel filled but I can always ad some gel myself. Will try them out and I am sure they will work fine.
Not sure why it didn't cross my mind last night when I was exploring my options.
I just ordered some of these, will let you know how it works out.
Waterproof Wire Connectors Kit | SolderStick
Durable waterproof wire connectors for safe, watertight connections. Ideal for electrical applications. Shop SolderStick connectors now.
I think they are good but these don't have the "T in" options that I was looking for. I don't want to cut the existing cable.
I have a bunch of there and have used them.
The trick with them is to find the ideal temperature and distance from your heat gun (do not use a lighter or torch)
If you are too close the clear shrink wrap will melt through before the solder melts and bonds together. If you are too far, it won't do much. Except for heat up the cable which may be difficult to hold if holding with your fingers.
If the clear shrink wrap melts though you are risking the exposure of the cable to the outside, defeating the purpose of this water right connector.
I would suggest doing a few practice runs before.
I've seen similar fail spectacularly and let the green death in. Not sure of brand though. If he is adding a tap, you need a way to seal one side of that with two wires in it. The gap between the wires can let in moisture.I just ordered some of these, will let you know how it works out.
Waterproof Wire Connectors Kit | SolderStick
Durable waterproof wire connectors for safe, watertight connections. Ideal for electrical applications. Shop SolderStick connectors now.
Yes but those require a cut wire. You would have one wire in, one out to existing light and one more out to new light. Three wires in a connector marketed to be waterproof for two is a pain.
All I can say about Posi-taps is that for my application, which was plumbing in a cheap tach into a cheap car that was not originally equipped with one, they worked supremely well. And when the cheap car dies, removing the tach will be very simple
I want to "T" into the existing turn signal line to add a short cable with my own plug-in connector/quick disconnect to be able to add additional turn signals.
The previous owner added side cases with a light kit on them (RL, stop, and turn). Kit is from AdMore Lighting Inc.
The kit come with cables to be tapped into existing wiring. He used these Posi-Taps that come with the kit to tap into the existing wiring under the seat. He simply peeling back some of the insulating sheathing from the harness and tapped in. Not leaving much room or cable length to work with or organize the cables well.
I want to tap into the the existing turn signal wiring and add a short cable with my own female connector (type to be determined) at the end. I will then put a male connector on the wires from the lighting kit so the are able to "quick connect"
This is so I can easily remove and replace the wiring kit should I need to later. Should I use a different lighting kit in the future or more, I will just need a male connector on the end of the kit and plug it in.
I like to leave my self options for the future while keeping everything functional and tidy.
English isn't my mother tongue but hopefully I explained it well enough.
Any kind of tap that guillotines the insulation can potentially sever the wire as well, given enough vibration over time and mileage. And it doesn't even have to be a total cut, if enough strands get severed, the intermittency/power drop will either play havoc with your electrics/electronics or render them inoperable.
Had an in-line tap on my old 12GS to power my GPS, and that worked for close to a decade and a half. Then the GPS stopped working. Tried to troubleshoot without a multimeter - checked fuse, cradle, tap looked intact... turned out that enough strands were severed that it wasn't getting full power to the cradle.
I just hooked up a GPS to my new bike. I soldered the connection for peace of mind.
Had an in-line tap on my old 12GS to power my GPS, and that worked for close to a decade and a half. Then the GPS stopped working. Tried to troubleshoot without a multimeter - checked fuse, cradle, tap looked intact... turned out that enough strands were severed that it wasn't getting full power to the cradle.
I just hooked up a GPS to my new bike. I soldered the connection for peace of mind.
I've used Posi-Taps on several occasions, always had lasting success. Simple, effective, relatively inexpensive, reversible, reusable, not invasive. What's not to like? Add some dielectric grease if you prefer.
I've never seen them anywhere at a retail counter. Matt at Motorcycle Innovations has lots of stock, and is a very nice, reasonable guy. Try this: POSI-PRODUCTS. He might even swing you a deal on the shipping.
Crutchfield Canada also has stock, free shipping if over $35. posi-products at Crutchfield Canada
Avoid these at all costs! Junk!
I've never seen them anywhere at a retail counter. Matt at Motorcycle Innovations has lots of stock, and is a very nice, reasonable guy. Try this: POSI-PRODUCTS. He might even swing you a deal on the shipping.
Crutchfield Canada also has stock, free shipping if over $35. posi-products at Crutchfield Canada
Avoid these at all costs! Junk!
i-WERKS
Well-known member
Wago connectors can be an option.
Wago 2 Port (5) 3 Port (5) 5 Port (5) 221 Splicing Connector Lever-Nut Assortment Pocket Pack for All Wire 12-24 AWG : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
Wago 2 Port (5) 3 Port (5) 5 Port (5) 221 Splicing Connector Lever-Nut Assortment Pocket Pack for All Wire 12-24 AWG : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.ca
They are beyond excellent for static connections. I'm not sure how they hold up with moisture and vibration. Also require cutting existing wire and a bit of slack to get both ends of existing wire into wago. Solves his problem of additional connector required though as he could just open wago to release his added wire.
I82l8
Well-known member
