New Chain time - DIY Help Needed! | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

New Chain time - DIY Help Needed!

Kri$han

Well-known member
It's possible, but I'd think an extra link would make a huge difference, to the point of it going out of adjustment range very quickly. Another possibility is that the chain the mechanic installed was pre-stretched. I kinda doubt the chain was an incorrect length if you were able to keep it in adjustment for most of that 30k
Pre-stretched! this checks out. chain link count is good.

If you analyze most reviews, the negatives are almost all related to breaking the chain. If you cut the chain, no need to break it. Generally I'll grind the pins off and pop the side plate off with a screwdriver.

With that, the only thing you need a tool for is to flare the pin. That Motion Pro tool is basically a c clamp with some sort of adapter to flare the pin. Not much can go wrong with that.
I like this, and will go this route - thank you!
 

Iceman

Well-known member
Royal distributing carries two brands of chain tool. Under $100.

Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
 

waitin4BOOST

Active member
I just used that cheapy tool ($42 from Kapsco in Ajax, cuz I was desperate and wanted now lol) to snap a 520 on a CBR500r. I ground off the rivet head flush, had no problems popping the old chain off, cut new chain to size, pressed the new link on and riveted the master link together; for assurance used a caliper to measure everything up. Chain will need adjustments since they stretch from new so keep an eye on that.
 

J_F

gringo diablo
Site Supporter
sprockets that look okay can be not okay

as chains wear the pitch gets longer
and the sprockets will wear to match that pitch

so when a new chain with original pitch is installed
old sprockets still have the longer pitch and eat the new chain

at over 60,000 km it's safe to say those sprockets are done
 

JP0160

Well-known member
The motionpro breaker from Fortnine ships in a day and works great, about 30$. I can vouch for the screw-type master link on the srx2, it's solid and provides more peace of mind then the clips.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

slowbird

Well-known member
To remove an old chain I use a huge set of Bolt cutters. I don't remember the size but I think it's 24". Got it on sale at crappy tire many years ago.

I purchased the MotionPro chain kit and the tool in the kit that breaks the links broke quite easily. Maybe I used it wrong :confused: but after that happened I went the Bolt cutter route and it works real well.
 

Blackfin

Well-known member
Site Supporter
I take an angle grinder and remove the head of one rivet. I then use the chain breaker to push the pin out. I use a small zip-tie to connect the last link from the old chain to the first link of the new one; as I pull the old chain from around the countershaft sprocket the new one is installed automatically. All that's left is to join the ends of the new chain with the master link and set the rivet heads (I'd never use a clip-style link on the street myself; YMMV).

This procedure is nice if the sprockets are in good shape. If the sprockets are to be replaced, there's little benefit to the zip-tie method.
 

Iceman

Well-known member
I take an angle grinder and remove the head of one rivet. I then use the chain breaker to push the pin out. I use a small zip-tie to connect the last link from the old chain to the first link of the new one; as I pull the old chain from around the countershaft sprocket the new one is installed automatically. All that's left is to join the ends of the new chain with the master link and set the rivet heads (I'd never use a clip-style link on the street myself; YMMV).

This procedure is nice if the sprockets are in good shape. If the sprockets are to be replaced, there's little benefit to the zip-tie method.
Angle grinder is key. My first chain tool kit I bent the part that pushes out the pin because I didn't grind off the head. I know better now.

Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
 

Kri$han

Well-known member
So, I tried this, and screwed it up.

- Started by grinding the heads off the old master link pin, assembled the tool and broke the chain quite easily.
- Then proceeded to clean the sprockets, and -most of- all surrounding areas - there was 60k worth of Motul Chain fling in there! it took almost an hour and a half, ugh.
- took out the new chain, threaded it over the sprockets and assembled the rivet master, then it went to ****:

To start off; the 525 VX chain I bought has a VERY SLIGHTLY larger pin spacing than the press body that comes with my tool.

Not the end of the world, I grabbed a 1/4" drill bit (6.35mm) and drilled out the 6mm holes. It *JUST BARELY* worked. I shouldda bought a regular O-Ring chain. This is it after I drilled it out:




I hooked up the tool, and I ended up clamping the master link plate about 0.30mm too far. I tried to google the effects of this, but couldn't find any horror stories - just people stressing how important it is that one does not do this.

Standard width:


Incorrectly clamped, narrow master:


The X-ring gaps are noticeably narrower:


Not knowing whether or not to proceed; I proceeded anyway and decided to assemble the rivet staking tool, and placed it over the 1st pin head.

Well, the only thing that flared was the rivet tool itself - the pins held steady at 5.45mm in diameter (same as out of the box), and my tool is buggered. The rounded head of the tool just pressed into the center hole of the rivet, and it did not stake it at all - This might be because there is too much exposed pin (since it's clamped to narrowly), but I don't know for sure. I don't even know if there's a way to salvage what I have on there now.




Based on the pin-spacing being off, and the rivet anvil not doing it's job, I can't say I'd recommend that el-cheapo tool above (it didn't even come with instructions!), but it could have easily been my fault. I guess the tolerance on clamping the master link is WAY less than 0.30mm.

Master link is still waiting for rivet staking, although I'm thinking I should remove it altogether and try something else.

Can anyone with a tool come by my place and hook a brother up? I missed all that sweet weather waiting for parts, and effectively ended my riding season :sad:
 
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TwistedKestrel

King of GTAM
Site Supporter
I know some master links come with spacers to maintain the correct spacing, but I guess not all of them do

Edit: Almost everything was wrong
 
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Kri$han

Well-known member
I think your pin flaring failed because there was no room for the pin noses to expand, not because you excessively clamped the master link. I know some master links come with spacers to prevent this from happening, but I guess not all of them do

Edit: I might be misunderstanding what was going on with the anvil
Yeah, I'm not sure how there wouldn't be enough room, though...? The side of the tool shown above is (was) the anvil, and on the opposite side there is a cup that seats onto the far side of the pin. So the tool is just compressing the pin; the only thing that should have given is the pin itself, but I guess the tool's anvil was too soft?

At the time, I thought that if the pin was sticking out too far, the anvil would flare it out *more*, if anything, but what do i know (don't answer that)

I really hope someone here with the tool sees this post and saves me.
 

TwistedKestrel

King of GTAM
Site Supporter
Right! I definitely misunderstood what was going on there. I was a little confused, because I thought you had a weird chain tool, but I was mentally reversing it for some reason. (I have installed chains before! :p)
 

ZX600

Well-known member
Site Supporter
where are you located dude?
 

regder

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Update: Internet digging:

http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID Chain Tool Inst_150.pdf

Read the last line on the last page highlighted in red. Stupid me had to go buy a lousy chain (that's definitely overkill for a 650!) that needs a "special" tool for riveting SOB
I have installed 2 530VX chains on my FZ6 and a 525VX on my V-Strom. Not sure why you think it's overkill, it's the first chain I check out when I need a new chain. Don't know what that rivet pin is about, but my fake MotionPro has riveted all of them.
 

ungoloth

Well-known member
The motionpro breaker from Fortnine ships in a day and works great, about 30$. I can vouch for the screw-type master link on the srx2, it's solid and provides more peace of mind then the clips.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Who makes the screw-type product? DID, RK...
 

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