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Motul 5100 vs 7100

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I've never seen a knowledgeable comparison of 7100 vs 5100. I have seen some fairly in-depth stuff comparing 300V and 7100, and the conclusion was that 7100 is better for any bike that isn't exclusively for track use with a change every weekend of use. It's marginally slicker, but breaks down a lot faster, apparently. I did see something somewhere where someone with access to an oil testing lab had analysed 5100 and showed significant loss of consistency after about 5,000 km, but I don't recall where...
 
I see the 5100 semi is $68 / 4 L at GP and $92 for the 7100. Rotella is $28 for equivalent amount of semi (T5) and T6 is $37. The CT is list, not a sale price. Given usage and the fact that you probably change oil out in the fall before winter storage wouldn't it make sense to just change out T5 or T6 when the shifter gets notchy vs using the much more expensive 5100 or 7100?
 
-Maverick- said:
Besides the price (yikes), anyone notice a difference in everyday usage?

The guy formerly known as Mladin.
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Probably better to ask on gixxer.com if you want a larger sample size of feedback on your specific model. They might even recommend something completely different that works even better.
 
I've used Rotella T5 in every bike I've owned for 30 years. Never had an oil-related failure. I change oil and filters religiously at 5000km or at least once a season if the bike doesn't go that far. I have bikes from the 70 and 80s that have 100K+ km that have never had the engines apart and still have in-spec compression and oil pressure.
 
I know of one engine failure caused by oil. A co-worker with his old winter beater Ford falcon. He put 80wt used machine oil in it. Lasted less than a week.
 
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Thanks for all of your answers and experiences. I use 300V in my GSX-R 1000 always, I'm going to go with 7100 for my 701 and 5100 for my wife's Dorsoduro. The Dorsoduro has a clunky shift even brand new so I'm going to try the 7100 once and see if there's any difference. Altho 7100 is definitely overkill for a low revving engine, if it improves the shift, that's a no brainer.

The reason for this thread is I'm stocking up on Motul as the price is likely going to go way up this summer. Buying many four liter jugs at once is very expensive. So figuring out overkill vs underkill is wise.

Sledding season this year has been interesting. Aside from no snow, guys are getting their sleds delivered without ECU's, Modules, Keys, Dashes due to chip shortages. No carbides or skis or clutch parts available anywhere in North America. Snowmobile gear from FXR ordered in October of 2021, still not delivered in February 2022.

You see where this is going?

Get yourself sorted out with oil now. We may all end up using Rotella...

The guy formerly known as Mladin.
 
You bring up a good point about price increases. I was really hoping the LiquidMoly was going to be good cause you can also buy that in 20L quantities. Unfortunately the results so far don't give me the confidence to do that.
 
Aens said:
You bring up a good point about price increases. I was really hoping the LiquidMoly was going to be good cause you can also buy that in 20L quantities. Unfortunately the results so far don't give me the confidence to do that.
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i literally just put liqui molly in one of my bikes lol. whats the big issue?
 
I also just bought liqui moly, was gonna do my oil change this weekend. What's wrong with it?
 
The thing to watch for is Ester based oils soften and expand seals and that is a good thing with older or high miles engines (especially 2 strokes)
Going back to a non ester based oil will have the opposite effect (not a good thing)
Both Motuls are ester based oils if I recall.
Better to spend your money on gas & burgers unless your engine lives in the red zone.
 
I now use 5100 in my 20yr old Kawasaki ZR-750. Rider's Choice had it on sale when they certified the bike.

I bought it last winter with an original 3570km after it spent almost all it's life in storage. The Owner was a collector and could not recall whether he ever changed the oil so I dumped out what was inside and filled it with regular dino 10W40 bike oil. After running it for a few tank fulls, I noticed thru the eye glass that it still looked darkish so I dumped out the new oil and now with the 5100 the bike shifts better and much cleaner looking.

As a side note, the challenge was removing the oil filter cannister. I have never experienced the problem in wrenching off the plug that held it on. It was way too tight so had to heat up the housing and attached a three foot bar onto the socket wrench. It took two of us and I figure it took about 200 ft lbs to break loose. That's when I was convinced the crankcase had the original factory oil and filter in place. I should have dumped out the dino oil a lot sooner but it's a bullet-proof in-line four Kawsaki engine so seems to be ok. Time will tell I guess.
 
Semi synthetic oil? What does that even mean? One might assume a 50/50 mix of synthetic/dino oil. But to the cynic, it might mean one drop of synthetic added to a batch of regular oil. How is the consumer to know? I've never seen anything definitive on the matter. Can someone offer some insight?

BTW, 100% synthetic in all my bikes: Liqui Moly, Repsol, Motul, Eni Agip, whatever...
 
I run cheap dino oil. Always have. Over 4 decades and 15 bikes the only oil related problem I had was spinning a crank bearing because I was playing in the red zone while down a quart or so.
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