Load-N-Go Motorcycle Loading Lift - Anyone have this? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Load-N-Go Motorcycle Loading Lift - Anyone have this?

On a similar vein to the expensive solution, it may be possible to make something with a ramp and hi-lift jack. Load on the tail gate wouldn't be much different than loading with a ramp (maybe a hundred pounds more?). Rough idea is a removable chock at top of ramp. Use bike power to drive bike into chock. Use hi-lift jack to lift tail of ramp above truck bed so now bike can roll downhill into truck. There are a few kinks to be worked out. Biggest one is how to get the chock out of the way (probably install a rear wheel support, remove chock and then roll into truck?). You will also need to change ramp/truck connection a little and add a larger vertical face as it isn't designed to be secure in that orientation.
 
Do you guys have any tricks/tips on pushing the bike on a ramp to load up on a truck? YouTuber YammieNoob does it by riding the bike up and also sitting on it while unloading it. He makes it look easy but I personally would be very nervous. I will install a wheel chock on the bed of my truck.

The tips I gathered from Internet:
- Install a wheel chock
- Get canyon dancer bar harness
- Straps (I already have them, but considering upgraded ones)
- Ramps (I have only one, but considering bigger and wider ones, advice?)
- Loading: Have the bike on first gear (engine running) and slowly feather the clutch while walking it up on the ramp
- Unloading: Have the bike on first gear (engine not running) and slowly roll it down while using both front brake and clutch lever
- Guts and Confidence (working on both)

Attached are pics of my setup with the help of my buddy. And no, I don't need a bigger truck nor a manlier truck lol as this Ridgeline serves me very well and saves me money.

Wheel Chocks: I went with Pitbull Trailer Restraints. Super easy to handle by yourself, and it is 'removable' in case you need your bed to be absolutely flat. You can arrange it so the harness goes forward from your rear tire, the mount sitting underneath the pivot and the mounting point would be in your bed and not on the tailgate. I have mine set up in an L track rail.

Straps: The best ones i've found were from a surprising place, these KTM ratchet straps are actually stellar quality KTM Soft Tie Downs With Ratchet

Ramps: Wide ramps can be a pain to store, but it makes it worth it as its easy to get up and down. I have a wide ramp and a narrow ramp. The narrow ramp is me and the wide ramp is for the bike. Just swap positions when unloading the other side. I have Black Widow ramps, but I dont know if they are sold in Canada anymore. Powersports Ramps The rungs aren't so wide that a foot could fall through. To get my specific config, It was actually a 3 piece set (1 wide 2 narrow) and a single wide that we split.

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I have one side with a pitbull TRS for my bikes (because you have to buy pins specific to each model bike) and a wheel chock and straps on the other for flexibility (if i need to load a buddy's bike).
 
$4000 is a lot of money to wrap up in loading a bike... in my mind... I'm cheap. How often are you really going to use this setup?
For $4000 you can buy a 6 x 12' enclosed trailer, that has a loading height of 12-16", is easier to strap down the bikes, gives you storage for the bikes when you're not using them (along with storage of your "bike stuff"), and lets you load a ton o' crap in your pickup... and a trailer is much more secure when you're on the road.
Best material for ramps I have found is expanded aluminum stair tread, light, strong, comes in different widths... and if you make a "goose neck" in the ramp it is MUCH easier to push a bike up the ramp, and the body work doesn't snag at the top.
 
$4000 is a lot of money to wrap up in loading a bike... in my mind... I'm cheap. How often are you really going to use this setup?
For $4000 you can buy a 6 x 12' enclosed trailer, that has a loading height of 12-16", is easier to strap down the bikes, gives you storage for the bikes when you're not using them (along with storage of your "bike stuff"), and lets you load a ton o' crap in your pickup... and a trailer is much more secure when you're on the road.
Best material for ramps I have found is expanded aluminum stair tread, light, strong, comes in different widths... and if you make a "goose neck" in the ramp it is MUCH easier to push a bike up the ramp, and the body work doesn't snag at the top.
That's my take also...for $4k one can purchase a sweet *** trailer, rent a trailer MULTIPLE times, and use that money for other things.

When I originally had my 'Trailer in a Bag' I loved it...but it was so specific in the application that it didn't make sense. My current folding trailer is fantastic, just wish it was a tad lower...but it's paid me back 10x this past season.

But I'm cheap as hell...
 
Step 2. If you can back the truck into a ditch with the ramp to the far side, ramp angle is reduced significant and everything is easier.
Finding the ditch is hit and miss, but we did have an instance when we found one in Sault Ste Marie and it made our lives so much easier.

On a similar vein to the expensive solution, it may be possible to make something with a ramp and hi-lift jack. Load on the tail gate wouldn't be much different than loading with a ramp (maybe a hundred pounds more?). Rough idea is a removable chock at top of ramp. Use bike power to drive bike into chock. Use hi-lift jack to lift tail of ramp above truck bed so now bike can roll downhill into truck. There are a few kinks to be worked out. Biggest one is how to get the chock out of the way (probably install a rear wheel support, remove chock and then roll into truck?). You will also need to change ramp/truck connection a little and add a larger vertical face as it isn't designed to be secure in that orientation.
Not a bad solution but a lot of quirks need to look into.

I meant how are you doing it now (manually)?
Buddy, myself pushing it together to get it up on the tail gate, then one of us jumps on the bed and grabs the handle bar while other pushes from the back.
That's my take also...for $4k one can purchase a sweet *** trailer, rent a trailer MULTIPLE times, and use that money for other things.

When I originally had my 'Trailer in a Bag' I loved it...but it was so specific in the application that it didn't make sense. My current folding trailer is fantastic, just wish it was a tad lower...but it's paid me back 10x this past season.

But I'm cheap as hell...

I am cheap too lol. What's this trailer in a bag? Need to see some pics please :)
 
Finding the ditch is hit and miss, but we did have an instance when we found one in Sault Ste Marie and it made our lives so much easier.


Not a bad solution but a lot of quirks need to look into.


Buddy, myself pushing it together to get it up on the tail gate, then one of us jumps on the bed and grabs the handle bar while other pushes from the back.


I am cheap too lol. What's this trailer in a bag? Need to see some pics please :)
This is basically what I had.

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It literally disassembles into a handful of pieces that can fit into a very heavy bag.
 
This is basically what I had.

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It literally disassembles into a handful of pieces that can fit into a very heavy bag.

That's pretty cool. Can a full size motorcycle can fit into it? How much did you pay for it?

I am also considering this trailer. Please see attached.
 

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That's pretty cool. Can a full size motorcycle can fit into it? How much did you pay for it?

I am also considering this trailer. Please see attached.
Been a long time but when I posted about looking a GTAMer sent me a message and I bought it for $700 or so, about 5 years ago.

Used it for a season and sold it for $800 and. GoPro.

Bought my current trailer (which looks to be same as the one you posted) for $650 and added metal plated base, wheel chocks, ramp, and new plywood.

Love that trailer.
 
Been a long time but when I posted about looking a GTAMer sent me a message and I bought it for $700 or so, about 5 years ago.

Used it for a season and sold it for $800 and. GoPro.

Bought my current trailer (which looks to be same as the one you posted) for $650 and added metal plated base, wheel chocks, ramp, and new plywood.

Love that trailer.

Why did you sell it though? Did it have swaying left and right issue? I saw some reviews on Google.

Does your current trailer sway left and right when unloaded? Can I see a pic of your trailer before adding metal plated base, wheel chocks, ramp and new plywood? I wonder if I am paying too much ($900).

Thanks!
 
Why did you sell it though? Did it have swaying left and right issue? I saw some reviews on Google.

Does your current trailer sway left and right when unloaded? Can I see a pic of your trailer before adding metal plated base, wheel chocks, ramp and new plywood? I wonder if I am paying too much ($900).

Thanks!
1. I sold the 'Trailer in a Bag' type of trailer (similar to Stinger...but cheaper) because it was a one trick pony. It literally couldn't be used for anything else except a motorcycle. It also jumped around like mad when empty because there's no suspension and it's super light. But once I put a bike on it, the suspension of the bike acted well and it tracked fine.

2. My trailer is a simple folding trailer that can be compared to these guys (#1 in Folding Trailers - DIY Folding Trailers - previously HTS / HST trailers). I actually buy majority of my accessories from them, nice couple working out of their house. I'll need to find some pics, but the chock is taken off 90% of the time because it's not needed. I'm going to pick up a new set of wheels for my trailer as I had a flat AND a worn down spare magically. It will get folded and put in the back in the next weeks in the upright position because it won't be needed until the spring.

If you're near mid-Mississauga you're welcome to come and take a look at it. Just shoot me a PM.
 
You don't NEED a ditch, any slope will do. Park the truck nose facing down hill, which levels out the ramp, and the down slope of the truck bed holds the bike in place while you tie it down.
Isn’t it nose facing UPHILL? Nose facing downhill will raise the rear end.
 
Isn’t it nose facing UPHILL? Nose facing downhill will raise the rear end.
It depends on surrounding topography. You need the rear wheels to be down wrt base of ramp. If you just lowered the nose but not the rear wheels, you are correct, it will make ramp steeper.
 
It depends on surrounding topography. You need the rear wheels to be down wrt base of ramp. If you just lowered the nose but not the rear wheels, you are correct, it will make ramp steeper.
I thought maybe you could cheat by running the front tires up on a couple stacked 2x10s
 
I thought maybe you could cheat by running the front tires up on a couple stacked 2x10s
Maybe, but I don't know if that would be worthwhile. I want a foot or more lower on the ramp. Stacked boards are a lot of effort for inches.
 
Why did you sell it though? Did it have swaying left and right issue? I saw some reviews on Google.

Does your current trailer sway left and right when unloaded? Can I see a pic of your trailer before adding metal plated base, wheel chocks, ramp and new plywood? I wonder if I am paying too much ($900).

Thanks!
This is my HF trailer with 3/4" PT plywood on it. I believe it is the same as @mimico_polak trailer but he has the aluminum diamond plate on it.

Believe it or not, it cost my less then $300 CAN when I bought it new in Buffalo. I did have to add the plywood and I upgraded to LED lights and 2" ball mount. They are meant to be bolted together but I also welded it together.
I have had it over 10 years and it has paid itself 100X. Saved on delivery fees of appliance and furniture many times. Has been out to Windsor and Ottawa to pick up toys. Me also being cheap, I moved my house contents with it when we were moving. (140 meters down the street around the corner with 2 weeks between closings and lots of help)

When I first saw it folded up at my cousins place in Chicago, I wasn't sure what I needed it for at the time but I WANTED one. Glad I got it.
I recently borrow a friends 5' x 10' aluminum trailer as I needed the additional length. Yes it was much better as it has full size wheels. But at $5k, I don't have a need for a trailers like that. Especially that I can borrow his at any time.


1699589207803.png
1699589750379.png
 
This is my HF trailer with 3/4" PT plywood on it. I believe it is the same as @mimico_polak trailer but he has the aluminum diamond plate on it.

Believe it or not, it cost my less then $300 CAN when I bought it new in Buffalo. I did have to add the plywood and I upgraded to LED lights and 2" ball mount. They are meant to be bolted together but I also welded it together.
I have had it over 10 years and it has paid itself 100X. Saved on delivery fees of appliance and furniture many times. Has been out to Windsor and Ottawa to pick up toys. Me also being cheap, I moved my house contents with it when we were moving. (140 meters down the street around the corner with 2 weeks between closings and lots of help)

When I first saw it folded up at my cousins place in Chicago, I wasn't sure what I needed it for at the time but I WANTED one. Glad I got it.
I recently borrow a friends 5' x 10' aluminum trailer as I needed the additional length. Yes it was much better as it has full size wheels. But at $5k, I don't have a need for a trailers like that. Especially that I can borrow his at any time.


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That is one clean setup. I have the same husky straps. I am jealous of your naked fz6. Was looking for one in the past.
 

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