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Kitchener/Waterloo area, c u next trackday riders thread!

Scuba Steve

Well-known member
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You'll be amazed at how much cheaper it is to fly out of Buffalo or Detroit.

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I have never found it enough cheaper to be worth the drive personally.

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doozerdave

Well-known member
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CheapFlightFares shows Detroit to Austin at $232 and Toronto to Austin at $372 (both direct). I know he got flights for something stupid like $90 before, but maybe not anymore...
 

Iceman

Well-known member
CheapFlightFares shows Detroit to Austin at $232 and Toronto to Austin at $372 (both direct). I know he got flights for something stupid like $90 before, but maybe not anymore...
That was my experience, but looking back it has been over 15 years since I was on a plane.
Perhaps I should stop giving outdated travel advice lol.


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doozerdave

Well-known member
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That was my experience, but looking back it has been over 15 years since I was on a plane.
Perhaps I should stop giving outdated travel advice lol.


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Naa, outdated and inaccurate advice is the GTAM way
 

smergy

Well-known member
Site Supporter
You can usually save a fair bit if you get forks with a kit already in it or a used shock, they just have to be serviced regularly. That said, a proper service isn't inexpensive.
 

j_e_f_f_williams

Well-known member
Being old and wise now, what are your thoughts on buying used suspension components? Would it be a better idea to just save up a bit more and buy new?

In the past I have purchased used forks with piston kits in them, Ohlins shocks, Penske shocks (actually, come to think about it, I might still have a gen1 R1 penske shock somewhere). I never had a problem with any of them but I did get them properly serviced before using them. Forks I serviced myself and shocks send out to pro. Check for obvious issues like bent forks, bent shock shaft, weird looking wear marks. Remember if you are going to do the fork service to take the shim stack apart and clean it all as there is a lot of crap that gets in the shims. The used shocks I never needed parts replaced, just standard service. For the forks I bought I had to replace bushes and I replaced the seals while I was in there just because.

Buying used suspension isn't any different to buying a used bike with the suspension on it :)

Jeff
 

Sebi

Don't call me Shirley
Site Supporter
Woo-hoo, got a good deal on some Woodcraft Clipons ($80 shipped) but it's just for the clamps; I still need to buy the bars. Anyone have a set of bars they'd want to part ways with? ;) I can't wait to see how much better the bike will feel with a widened bar stance; I have high expectations of it.
Additionally, I'll be picking up my ohlins damper at the show which I'm also looking forward too. The TTX will have to wait a bit longer but I'm really hoping to be able to get it on before spring.
Lastly, I want to get rid of the ignition barrel and just have everything wired into the kill switch. Anyone have experience with that on an 08+ R6? I've already disabled the immobilizer thru the ECU flash.
 

Brian P

Well-known member
Moderator
Site Supporter
Handlebars that will work with the Woodcraft clamps are easy. Any Woodcraft or Vortex bars will work, and you can get them separately (as crash-repair spares).

Easiest way to do kill-switch-ignition is to get the Woodcraft ignition key eliminator harness. They're meant for bikes without immobilizer ... I don't know if the immobilizer-equipped models have different pin counts or pin assignments on the plug to the ignition switch. If those plugs are the same then it should work. (Check service manual wiring diagrams)

The key eliminator harness isn't rocket science, DIY isn't out of the question, but I wanted a clean solution without hacking the wiring harness. Finding the matching harness plugs wasn't worth my time, nor was reverse-engineering which pins were to do what in order to make it work.
 

Sebi

Don't call me Shirley
Site Supporter
Handlebars that will work with the Woodcraft clamps are easy. Any Woodcraft or Vortex bars will work, and you can get them separately (as crash-repair spares).

Easiest way to do kill-switch-ignition is to get the Woodcraft ignition key eliminator harness. They're meant for bikes without immobilizer ... I don't know if the immobilizer-equipped models have different pin counts or pin assignments on the plug to the ignition switch. If those plugs are the same then it should work. (Check service manual wiring diagrams)

The key eliminator harness isn't rocket science, DIY isn't out of the question, but I wanted a clean solution without hacking the wiring harness. Finding the matching harness plugs wasn't worth my time, nor was reverse-engineering which pins were to do what in order to make it work.
Yea, I saw the Woodcraft eliminator harness but supposedly it it incompatible with the harness which has immobilizer built in; DIY is going to be the way I go. Any place you recommend for getting the bars? I know bluestreak and such sell them but I'm looking at $10 shipping for $20 bars so I'd like to avoid that if I could
 

smergy

Well-known member
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You need 2 and having 2 as spares is a good idea. Add an oil filter if need be and shipping is free

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Sebi

Don't call me Shirley
Site Supporter
You need 2 and having 2 as spares is a good idea. Add an oil filter if need be and shipping is free

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Good idea. I really should get an air filter... Mine is 2 years old now and has seen about 40,000km's. I keep cleaning it out every so often but it might be time to toss it
 

doozerdave

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Link to change auto-renew was still broke when I tried it today.

Interesting business model ... enable auto-renewal but now way to disable it :)

Jeff
FYI, I remembered to go check the auto-renewal again and it now has a different interface that works. I disabled my auto-renewal.
 

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