Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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18 Year old Moen faucet broke.

Called Moen for the heck of it.
I technically do not qualify for warranty as I am not the original owner of the house it came with. However, they will provide the parts under warranty. I just need to pick up from Oakville or pay $15 shipping.

I for sure will consider Moen when doing the actually bathroom reno.

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On another around the house note:

This is what a Milwaukee Tool M12 FUEL 12V Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 6-inch HATCHET Pruning Chainsaw is capable of doing .
A am impressed with its capabilities.

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oioioi said:
18 Year Moen faucet broke.

Called Moen for the heck of it.
I technically do not qualify for warranty as I am not the original owner of the house it came with. However, they will provide the parts under warranty. I just need to pick up from Oakville or pay $15 shipping.

I for sure will consider Moen when doing the actually bathroom reno.

View attachment 73743


On another around the house note:

This is what a Milwaukee Tool M12 FUEL 12V Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 6-inch HATCHET Pruning Chainsaw is capable of doing .
A am impressed with its capabilities.

View attachment 73744
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$268 with the battery is not awful. I get annoyed using the >15 lb chainsaw for brush and while a pruning blade on a recip saw works ok for attached wood, cutting loose pieces down with it sucks.
 
GreyGhost said:
$268 with the battery is not awful. I get annoyed using the >15 lb chainsaw for brush and while a pruning blade on a recip saw works ok for attached wood, cutting loose pieces down with it sucks.
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I paid less than that. I think it was around $219. Someone bought it online and returned it. HD doesn't have a proper home for it on the shelf so they discount it.

For one hand operation, this chainsaw works much better than a recip saw.
 
oioioi said:
18 Year old Moen faucet broke.

Called Moen for the heck of it.
I technically do not qualify for warranty as I am not the original owner of the house it came with. However, they will provide the parts under warranty. I just need to pick up from Oakville or pay $15 shipping.

I for sure will consider Moen when doing the actually bathroom reno.

View attachment 73743


On another around the house note:

This is what a Milwaukee Tool M12 FUEL 12V Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 6-inch HATCHET Pruning Chainsaw is capable of doing .
A am impressed with its capabilities.

View attachment 73744
Click to expand...
Wow that’s good cutting by a small saw!

I want this thing but heard the battery would need to be a 20 or 24V for it to last…

 
Hard to beat a Moen product. After cursing the install of my POS stainless steel sink, the install of the Moen single control faucet was a pleasure. And yes they stand behind every faucet they make.
 
Squeeze and I spent a big chunk of the last two days scrubbing the black soot off of the rear deck. Almost looks like new.
 
timtune said:
Hard to beat a Moen product. After cursing the install of my POS stainless steel sink, the install of the Moen single control faucet was a pleasure. And yes they stand behind every faucet they make.
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I'm a Moen fan, always getting good value. The second last kitchen faucet I put in was supposed to be Moen but the plumbing guy at HD pushed me into an American Standard.

Almost immediately it started having a thump when turned on so I called their 1-800 number. When a techie answered, all I got out was "I just put in a new kitchen faucet.." and the guy interrupted, finishing my sentence "and it's making thumping sound. It's the XYZ valve. Give me your address and I'll send you a new one."

Valve comes in, gets installed (Complete disassembly) and no thump... for a month or two, then thump. Moen in the next day.

A hearty thank-you to American Standard for sending me a defective replacement to replace the already defective one. The hours spent under the sink will be a cherished memory of your competence and concern for the value of my time. SF
 
Had to patch up some shingles on the dog/goat house, surprised that was the only damage after that wind and rain. They are old and need replaced so I'll add that to my list of projects..
 
GreyGhost said:
$268 with the battery is not awful. I get annoyed using the >15 lb chainsaw for brush and while a pruning blade on a recip saw works ok for attached wood, cutting loose pieces down with it sucks.
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The remnants of my maple stump in the back yard have become a test bed for various wood removal devices. There is a balance needed between cost, efficient use of time and especially safety as Mad Mike can relate. Working close to the ground makes it difficult to position oneself where a kickback wouldn't risk life or limb.

I was making some progress with a small jackhammer fitted with a very sharp chisel but the efficiency could have been better. I thought about who would know more about wood cutting than our crankcall and it came to me, a beaver. So, I reshaped the tip of the chisel into a curve like a beaver's tooth and it turns out that those furry dam builders know something about cutting wood. I'm also playing around with other sawblade types and tooth shapes.

Absolutely an acquisition of useless facts but it beats watching reality TV.
 
For a large stump that was cut flat close to the ground...I always wondered if cutting multiple groves in it with a circular saw and then breaking off the chunks between the groves...rinse and repeat would work.
 
Combine gym time with stump removal. Assuming it's cut close to the ground, grab an axe and take some swings each time you go outside. It won't take too long to be reduced to chips.

Fwiw, I try not to use chainsaws for this as the dirt is so bad for them. Pruning blade on a recip saw makes quick work of roots. Make a cut close to the trunk and another one out about a foot gives you a path to dig. Get a path under the stump and slide in a jack. Pressure plus cutting other roots has it come up. You're left with an huge dirty chunk of wood and a big hole if you choose to remove it this way.
 
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POWERMAN said:
FYI - Davey Tree quoted me around $500 for stump grinding when I contacted them 2 months ago.
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I bought an interesting product for another use a while back. Was going to make homemade rocket motors from it but it’s original use is as a stump remover, albeit quite slowly, You get it from TSC or farm supply shops I believe. Pour it into a hollow on the stump and wait.

Please don’t call me RCMP as this is obviously fiction.
 
Wife did not like seeing the neighbours windows at the side of our house so we looked for a creative way of blocking them from view. Costco had some artificial boxwood panels with LED lights that can be linked together on sale so I strung 5 of them together and fixed them onto our lattice at the side of the deck. Looks delightfully tacky, works perfectly. I like it.

Might have to go and get a flock of plastic flamingos next.
 
GreyGhost said:
Combine gym time with stump removal. Assuming it's cut close to the ground, grab an axe and take some swings each time you go outside. It won't take too long to be reduced to chips.

Fwiw, I try not to use chainsaws for this as the dirt is so bad for them. Pruning blade on a recip saw makes quick work of roots. Make a cut close to the trunk and another one out about a foot gives you a path to dig. Get a path under the stump and slide in a jack. Pressure plus cutting other roots has it come up. You're left with an huge dirty chunk of wood and a big hole if you choose to remove it this way.
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I dig around the stump a foot or so below ground level then take a cut with the chainsaw. As long as it's a few inches below ground level is good then I cover with dirt. I'm careful to brush away any dirt before I make the cut. If it's a large diameter stump I'll often make a cut down the middle and cut it out in two pieces.
 
crankcall said:
Take a one inch spade bit and drill holes as deep as you can go ,then dig down one side and drill into the middle as far as you can go making a Venturi vent port , pour a cup of kerosene or whatever on the stump and light it up , it will burn for an entire day and be ash ” below the ground .


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Toronto doesn't allow any fire iirc. One grumpy neighbour and you are stuck with a stump, bill for the fire department and a fine.
 
crankcall said:
Take a one inch spade bit and drill holes as deep as you can go ,then dig down one side and drill into the middle as far as you can go making a Venturi vent port , pour a cup of kerosene or whatever on the stump and light it up , it will burn for an entire day and be ash ” below the ground .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
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^^^This......I've done it a handful of times. The kerosene burns almost unnoticeable. Mine burned 2-3 days.
 
backmarkerducati said:
For a large stump that was cut flat close to the ground...I always wondered if cutting multiple groves in it with a circular saw and then breaking off the chunks between the groves...rinse and repeat would work.
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Good if you have fantastic life and limb insurance. Circular saws are notorious for kick back, especially when the item you are cutting isn't dead flat and is green end grain.

I did what you suggested but screwed a scrap of plywood to the uneven top so the saw was cutting on a flat. A few other safety barriers were added.

Breaking off the chunks wasn't simple as the grain was vertical. I switched to a multitool to cut the pieces out but it was tedious. (Do I want to be doing this for a month, smoking $15 blades) Keep in mind that the stump at ground level is about three feet irregular diameter. Playing around, what this has become, had me resharpen the multitool blades to a more aggressive tooth that was faster but still not showing enough progress.

I went back to the chainsaw after switching to a rip tooth as the standard cross cut was not clearing the chips well. Then back to the chipping hammer with the beaver tooth chisel, so far my most efficient option. I just want the area to be level with the lawn so I can sod over it.

The tree was at the edge of the deck and a stump grinder could easily have taken a bite, adding to the costs. I've also seen the grinders throw a fist sized hunk of wood fifty feet and there's a very expensive window right there.

Chemicals take a few years and there is an expensive replacement tree about six feet away so no chemicals.

If someone wants to design a purpose-built unit there are some contrary requirements. It has to be light and powerful. However, without mass it will be subject to kickbacks which means choosing between gutless or heavy.

If I was to pursue this, I would think about a large biscuit joiner concept, telescoping in and out as required.

I'm sure there are YouTube videos where people have modified 4" angle grinders to do the job. Basically, take the most dangerous tool in the shop and make it even worse. Yes you can convert a grinder to a multitool. Tourniquet not included.
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