Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[danp]

Depends on the reason it is cracking. If it is cracking because the floor is "moving" any fix will be temporary unless the fix addresses the root cause. Floor moves, non-flexible things crack.

Stopping (or mitigating) the floor from moving (I mostly mean up and down) is likely no trivial task and may even be due to how or on what the tiles were put on. Sub-floor not properly attached to the joists, joists too small, old structure, no decoupling membrane, etc.

The best practice/methods for what goes under tile has also changed over the years....

If it is the case depending on how much movement there is repairing the grout will be temporary but may still be worth while (depends on how long it will last). Fixing the root cause 100% may be a huge job....

Hmmm house was built in 1999, I bought it in 2015, and the crack only started developing about 2 months ago. Not sure if this is the original floor put in in 1999 or if the previous owner redid it.

If I have to repair a crack every 5 years that's no biggie.

I wonder if there's such a thing as a flexible grout that would work better in such a situation.

 

[GreyGhost]

Depends a lot on the dryer. Our current GE sends more lint into the line than any other dryer I have ever had, the lint screen just is not 100%.

Also, don't forget any lint that is also stuck in the dryer itself.

Dryer is an lg. Quite a bit of lint gets past the screen. Dryer stops and warns you if flow through duct gets too low. Did what I could for dryer without moving it. Compressed air in by screen, brush from the back. Visibly clean but there is a section between those two points that may have buildup. Accessing that would require major surgery. I guess a small vacuum hose could blindly suck out something.

 

[Hardwrkr13]

Getting into the attic involves using A-frame ladder to remove access lid then an extendable to get into there. Ran electrical cable down inside wall and hooked into electrical outlet in attic (because my extension cord idea was poo-poo’d here), then climb out, put ladders away and clean off all the blown in insulation off me. New power outlet added down in office in new future desk area.
Fast forward 3 days later as I’m sitting in bed and realize that after fishing down the wire and running it over to the plug 20’ away I forgot to go back and cover up the small drill hole with insulation again. Ugg

 

[GreyGhost]

Getting into the attic involves using A-frame ladder to remove access lid then an extendable to get into there. Ran electrical cable down inside wall and hooked into electrical outlet in attic (because my extension cord idea was poo-poo’d here), then climb out, put ladders away and clean off all the blown in insulation off me. New power outlet added down in office in new future desk area.
Fast forward 3 days later as I’m sitting in bed and realize that after fishing down the wire and running it over to the plug 20’ away I forgot to go back and cover up the small drill hole with insulation again. Ugg

You want vapour barrier not just insulation. Otherwise you will get air through the outlet, up through the wall and into the attic. No bueno.

I can get into our attic hatch with a tall A-frame but top step is a few feet below ceiling level so it's not ideal. Climb onto a 1/2" ledge and then over a 2' insulated collar with secondary hatch that I added to keep blown insulation from pouring out. At some point I will get annoyed enough to put an anchor above so I can use a rope and some combination of handle/harness to solve the complication.

 

[Lyndsay]

I wonder if there's such a thing as a flexible grout that would work better in such a situation.

Yes, You can get a tube made up. When I built my house I used it between the tile and the hardwood, as I expected some relative motion. Went to a tile place and told them who my contractor was and the products he used for the grout and they made up a tube of matching sealant. Not really grout, more like a stiff caulking.

 

[nobbie48]

Grout cracking in my bathroom. Is it just a matter of chiselling out the old grout and refilling it with this stuff or do I need to do something more complex than that?

I have a similar problem with my shower wall. I suspect it is the wall is partly masonry and partly wood frame due to it being a side split. I will be trying an anti fracture membrane when I fix it.

 

[mimico_polak]

Chopping, splitting and chipping wood at the cottage.

 

[mimico_polak]

Need some advice here...what's the better ROI...

Option #1 - rip out existing walls that Kevin put up, re-frame with 2x3 or 2x4 and BATT/spray foam insulation and re-seal back with drywall

OR

Option #2 - install rigid foam insulation on the exterior and put siding up over it

?

One option is cleaner than the other...but hard to calculate which is the better option. Option #2 is MUCH more palatable as a family as we don't need to rip walls out.

From what I'm seeing the rigid foam is about an R10 level of insulation...whereas the interior insulation may be better and have better qualities.

Problem with using 2x4 is losing 1" (approx) in each direction. My buddy is using 2x3s instead so he doesn't have this issue. Currently behind the drywall...strapping and that garbage yellow sponge insulation (no longer toxic after I confirmed).

 

[GreyGhost]

Need some advice here...what's the better ROI...

Option #1 - rip out existing walls that Kevin put up, re-frame with 2x3 or 2x4 and BATT/spray foam insulation and re-seal back with drywall

OR

Option #2 - install rigid foam insulation on the exterior and put siding up over it

?

One option is cleaner than the other...but hard to calculate which is the better option. Option #2 is MUCH more palatable as a family as we don't need to rip walls out.

From what I'm seeing the rigid foam is about an R10 level of insulation...whereas the interior insulation may be better and have better qualities.

Problem with using 2x4 is losing 1" (approx) in each direction. My buddy is using 2x3s instead so he doesn't have this issue. Currently behind the drywall...strapping and that garbage yellow sponge insulation (no longer toxic after I confirmed).

Do you want to change the exterior appearance of your house? If yes, that would help offset the cost. Given the crazy prices in your neighbourhood (assuming that you think your physical house would survive an ownership change and not be a teardown), I would probably go with stucco (eifs). An Upside is no framing penetrates the entire insulation layer.

Honestly the biggest improvement in insulation is to stop air movement. Whatever you do, seal the hell out of it (air barrier if outside, vapour barrier if inside).

Are windows part of this project? If you increase the wall thickness, you need to deal with trim/lintels/etc. If you wanted new windows, putting them in to match the new wall makes sense instead of bodges to make existing sort of work.

As for Roi, people dont pay for efficiency ime. You could have solar producing thousands of real dollars per year and they value that at close to zero. People pay for aesthetics. Switch from siding to stucco and you get more money. Siding to siding with more insulation and roi will be very close to zero.

 

[backmarkerducati]

Need some advice here...what's the better ROI...

Option #1 - rip out existing walls that Kevin put up, re-frame with 2x3 or 2x4 and BATT/spray foam insulation and re-seal back with drywall

OR

Option #2 - install rigid foam insulation on the exterior and put siding up over it

?

One option is cleaner than the other...but hard to calculate which is the better option. Option #2 is MUCH more palatable as a family as we don't need to rip walls out.

From what I'm seeing the rigid foam is about an R10 level of insulation...whereas the interior insulation may be better and have better qualities.

Problem with using 2x4 is losing 1" (approx) in each direction. My buddy is using 2x3s instead so he doesn't have this issue. Currently behind the drywall...strapping and that garbage yellow sponge insulation (no longer toxic after I confirmed).

Outside should be better efficiency wise IMO as you retain the thermal mass of the double/block construction (assuming your house) but now in the conditioned space. Lifestyle, well the entire job does not impact living area as it is all outside. No worries about changing the dew point in the brick and causing long term damage, as it is no longer in the elements.

Downside, you end up with siding instead of brick on the outside.

 

[mimico_polak]

I hate my brick exterior lol. Such a garbage grey brick that I have no qualm getting rid off.

My only issue with stucco @GreyGhost is simply that if it gets messed up...it becomes very difficult (impossible?) to repair properly. My buddy just installed stucco on his lowest 2ft of his place and it came out very nice...but I don't think I'd risk doing the entire house like that.

We like the siding look more than the stucco look.

 

[GreyGhost]

I hate my brick exterior lol. Such a garbage grey brick that I have no qualm getting rid off.

My only issue with stucco @GreyGhost is simply that if it gets messed up...it becomes very difficult (impossible?) to repair properly. My buddy just installed stucco on his lowest 2ft of his place and it came out very nice...but I don't think I'd risk doing the entire house like that.

We like the siding look more than the stucco look.

Board and batten hardie panel? Or shiplap hardie board work for you? For financial roi, I dont think vinyl siding is the way to go in your neighbourhood. There are lots of non-stucco options.

To repair eifs, you fix the damage and probably skim out to a change of plane if you really want it to disappear. For less money, repair damage and paint the plane but repair will likely be visble as a different texture.

Old school stucco could be hit with a sledgehammer with little damage. Nobody does that anymore.

 

[backmarkerducati]

While not a stickler for pure architectural integrity in non-historic buildings the outside material should fit the look of the house for best results. My guess based on descriptions here your house is likely Minimal Traditional which opens many options IMO as they are fairly neutral but there are still some that do not fit well. Minimal Traditional (if that is what it is) will look OK with the right, good quality siding as the style was also built in many places that did stick construction. The only challenge to get it to look right is the windows may end up oddly inset....

Many times people make the wrong changes.... and for example try to make a Mid-Century look like a Victorian or some other weird combo, and all it does is look stupid. Most people can't put a finger on why they just know it does not look right. Someone says, I like Tudor windows, Arts and Crafts columns, Victorian trim all on their 80s side split and can't figure out why the combos didn't work...

 

[crankcall]

Hardi plank cement siding , no rot , no bugs , fire proof , smooth or wood grain , pre painted or paint your own. Best option today , any boob can install it . Well.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com

 

[nobbie48]

While not a stickler for pure architectural integrity in non-historic buildings the outside material should fit the look of the house for best results. My guess based on descriptions here your house is likely Minimal Traditional which opens many options IMO as they are fairly neutral but there are still some that do not fit well. Minimal Traditional (if that is what it is) will look OK with the right, good quality siding as the style was also built in many places that did stick construction. The only challenge to get it to look right is the windows may end up oddly inset....

Many times people make the wrong changes.... and for example try to make a Mid-Century look like a Victorian or some other weird combo, and all it does is look stupid. Most people can't put a finger on why they just know it does not look right. Someone says, I like Tudor windows, Arts and Crafts columns, Victorian trim all on their 80s side split and can't figure out why the combos didn't work...

What have you got against an art deco side split with Victorian trim on the two story part?

Seriously, my house is a slight smaller version of MP's. A side split with sand lime brick, slightly hard chalk.

I re-insulated inside (2X4 with fiberglass & VB) as we were only using two of the three bedrooms and could play musical chairs, doing one room at a time. The kitchen and dining room were done separately in a major renovation.

It's a personal taste thing and I don't like stucco or siding.

It's really hard to make a mid century side split look like anything else.

 

[mimico_polak]

This is the kind of look we really like. One of the streets during our walk.

 

[sburns]

Need some advice here...what's the better ROI...

Option #1 - rip out existing walls that Kevin put up, re-frame with 2x3 or 2x4 and BATT/spray foam insulation and re-seal back with drywall

OR

Option #2 - install rigid foam insulation on the exterior and put siding up over it

?

One option is cleaner than the other...but hard to calculate which is the better option. Option #2 is MUCH more palatable as a family as we don't need to rip walls out.

From what I'm seeing the rigid foam is about an R10 level of insulation...whereas the interior insulation may be better and have better qualities.

Problem with using 2x4 is losing 1" (approx) in each direction. My buddy is using 2x3s instead so he doesn't have this issue. Currently behind the drywall...strapping and that garbage yellow sponge insulation (no longer toxic after I confirmed).

Whatever you do, your are going to be my test subject for me to make a decision on this as well ...

 

[crankcall]

If I was doing anything but a cottage , I’d talk with an architect. Or at least a really respected contractor. Yes they may bill you a couple thousand for the time and sketches, but not having the neighbours wonder why you now own a medieval Art Deco modernist bungalow goes a long way.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com

 

[nobbie48]

If I was doing anything but a cottage , I’d talk with an architect. Or at least a really respected contractor. Yes they may bill you a couple thousand for the time and sketches, but not having the neighbours wonder why you now own a medieval Art Deco modernist bungalow goes a long way.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com

I've dealt with a number of architects and generally the advice is KISS. Keep it simple stupid. I've seen houses built on spec that have something for everyone, a wild west room, English manor room, Star Trek room, Italian kitchen and an exterior that looks like a building supply showroom.

 

[nobbie48]

This is the kind of look we really like. One of the streets during our walk.

View attachment 57619

Put me on the list as well. Unfortunately renovating a split level to something like that involves a very large bulldozer.

I've sketched up drawings for mine and coming up with more space or rooms is easy. Making the place look nice and work well seems to be impossible.

Do they even make side splits any more?