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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
I forgot about the high efficiency air intakes and exhausts. Ice up one of those and they don't fire up.
Not proven, but if you're bored with oil threads this offers even more conjecture.
Mpemba effect - Wikipedia
For the USB outlets you can get an extension ring/bezel (~3/4") to help deal with box fill. These outlets are really deep and barely fit into most boxes, if at all. The extension ring is marketed for GFCI outlets in shallow boxes, available from big box. It comes with longer screws and it goes between the receptical and the wall/.box. Then use a standard size wall plate. See pics below....
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I know what you are talking about, that glazed slippery finish, usually comes with ugly pattern joints, saw cuts thru the pattern, and grey chips and blisters after a few years. Pattern concrete is easy to do, set a form, place concrete, sprinkle color then stamp. After a few years you often see ugly chips and blisters where the grey concrete shows through.
I use a company that builds premium pools, they have great concrete guys. They dye (colour) the concrete before pouring, after pulling the stamps they hand-cut relief joints along the stamp lines, detail the joints, then hand finish the surface with sisal brushes. The result is a flat, nonslippery, blemish-free, surface that lasts for decades.
Costs about $15/sq', which is comparable to a decent interlock job.
48Connor
Well-known member
Yeah this is what I have ordered. Should arrive in a few days so I'll see how it goes.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
When I install any wifi or USB fancy switches/outlets I always change the boxes to plastic. Same goes for j-box flay panel LEDS, they are a pain to squeeze into j-boxes.
The cavity in plastic boxes is wider and deeper than steel, and they are non conductive.
Anybody have a recommendation of what to replace this nasty light with?
Thinking of just replacing it with an LED panel. It’s in the basement gym/office. The cover got damaged in the Reno and never really bothered with it until recently.
Thinking of just replacing it with an LED panel. It’s in the basement gym/office. The cover got damaged in the Reno and never really bothered with it until recently.
You can also go with a LED flush mount light like these:
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/co...rated-led-flushmount-light-fixture/1001196759
Very cheap, adjustable temperature on the newer ones. Lots of similar options. You will likely need to install a ceiling box as the florescent fixture is wired directly (it is the "box"). 1200 lumens for this one. I installed seven of these in my rewire (including replacing fixtures like yours), all places that I will do another fixture in the future so cheap and fuctional is all I needed now, they light up a room quite well.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/co...rated-led-flushmount-light-fixture/1001196759
Very cheap, adjustable temperature on the newer ones. Lots of similar options. You will likely need to install a ceiling box as the florescent fixture is wired directly (it is the "box"). 1200 lumens for this one. I installed seven of these in my rewire (including replacing fixtures like yours), all places that I will do another fixture in the future so cheap and fuctional is all I needed now, they light up a room quite well.
48Connor
Well-known member
Yeah most people online I saw seemed to use plastic boxes. Due to where my outlet is, I'm pretty stuck with the size of box I have. Can't put in a deeper box due to hitting the dishwasher. The only direction I can go is up (~5/8" before I hit the underside of the counter), but then I'm dealing with trying to cover/repair the side of a painted MDF cabinet.
I could move it to a different location in the house, but this is really the only spot I'd use it.
We got the flush mount LED panel from Costco. Looks amazing, kind of like a skylight! Will I have to replace the whole unit if it breaks? Yes. But these things last forever and are getting cheaper every year!
Edit: Artika brand I think. About $60ish now.
Thanks @jc100 I can't seem to find that particular one. But thinking of a 2x4 LED panel. It'll cover up the existing hole from the 1x4 that's in the picture.
Also, anyone have a recommendation for a framing / roofing company? I'm having a chat with the broker today about our renovation plans, and would like to compare to the 160k quotes I've gotten so far.
Also, anyone have a recommendation for a framing / roofing company? I'm having a chat with the broker today about our renovation plans, and would like to compare to the 160k quotes I've gotten so far.
Plastic electrical boxes are very popular in the US, never caught on at same level here (but they are used here as well). In metal they make higher cu.in boxes that are basically flared at the sides (helps with box fill calculated wire count limits) but they are not going to help out in your case as depth is one of the problems, and you have limited depth behind the box.
The bezel ring you ordered (one in my pic) should solve the problem.
Mine was an "impulse" buy when doing the rewire. Since it needs to stick out anyways if I was to do it again I would have just stayed with a regualr outlet and plugged in a wall tap with two to six outlets and built in USB ports....
Panel is ok and saves the height. I prefer non-ugly light fixtures in rooms I want to spend time in. I also prefer indirect light, especially if the fixture may be in my line of sight. A panel doesn't meet either of my criteria.
Obviously I am not advocating for blue, I was having trouble finding a picture of a low height indirect light.
Interesting chat I had with the bank. I'm eligible for about 150k in a second mortgage at Prime - 1% in order to fund the renovations.
Basically counting my current mortgage + current pre-payment, I'd be in an extra $160/month to get 150k for renovations.
I'm thinking a new Mustang GT is in order...renovations...eff that.
Only problem is if I don't use the full 150k...I'm still on the hook to pay for it, unlike an LOC (which is an extra 1% and you only pay for what you use) so about 120k in LoC v 150k in Mortgage.
Basically counting my current mortgage + current pre-payment, I'd be in an extra $160/month to get 150k for renovations.
I'm thinking a new Mustang GT is in order...renovations...eff that.
Only problem is if I don't use the full 150k...I'm still on the hook to pay for it, unlike an LOC (which is an extra 1% and you only pay for what you use) so about 120k in LoC v 150k in Mortgage.
So pull the 150 and prepay the 30 that is left? Or if they want to be pricks on the second mortgage, prepay the first mortgage by 30K. Or invest the 30K. Or put the 30K in something interest bearing and put it in the 2nd mortgage on the anniversary if they only allow prepayments once a year. Or pull 100K mortgage and remainder on LOC.
Not sure I follow.
Option #1 - 150k mortgage at Prime - 1%
Option #2 - 120k LoC at 2.95%
The 150k can be used for whatever I want. It's taken out. Including pre-payment of the first mortgage up to a max of 20% of the original amount.
For $160/month more than I'm paying now, it's very tempting and would allow us to effectively finish up the addition to the house. Mind you now I'm in a much higher mortgage, but it's $160/month more than what I'm paying now.
Max amount I'm eligible for a new mortgage is around 600k or so. Meaning I can sell my house, and maybe get lucky and buy it back.
Pull the 150K mortage, spend 120K on renovations. You now have 30K in the bank that needs a purpose (hookers and blow?). That 30K could be used for anything in my list (or more fun but less financially prudent activities).
Sorry didn't catch that. The total renovation cost (Modular homes) is about 180k or so. But I can cover the deficit.
Mind you, who here has seen a project finish on time and budget?
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