I went with tar paper, 2 X 4s, fiberglass, vapour barrier and drywall but space wasn't critical. Similarly in the garage, but 2 X 2 and plywood for the bottom 24" and diagonal reject cedar paneling above. Man cave wainscoting.
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Painting wood trim is generally a one way street for most sane people. It can be stripped and refinished but it will be a PITA.
You can try to strip it in place but it will be messy, modern strippers will require multiple applications, you will still need to sand it. People have done it though.
Removing it, it will get damaged and you need to deal with all the nails in the boards. I recommend pulling them through instead of pushing them back out, that way they don't pop the wood on the good side. I have also seen people just cut them off flush on the backside.
Replacing, it depends on what kind of wood if you want to match it--availability and cost.
I have salvaged tons of trim in the house to reuse in new doorways, moved windows, renos, etc. Most I have paint stripped (adhesion problems in lower layers, sometime in the last 80 years--oil to latex.), repaired the removal and nail damage and repainted as there are adhesion problems in lower layers. Once done they were not in good enough condition to go back to natural wood, but look brand new repainted.
You can try to strip it in place but it will be messy, modern strippers will require multiple applications, you will still need to sand it. People have done it though.
Removing it, it will get damaged and you need to deal with all the nails in the boards. I recommend pulling them through instead of pushing them back out, that way they don't pop the wood on the good side. I have also seen people just cut them off flush on the backside.
Replacing, it depends on what kind of wood if you want to match it--availability and cost.
I have salvaged tons of trim in the house to reuse in new doorways, moved windows, renos, etc. Most I have paint stripped (adhesion problems in lower layers, sometime in the last 80 years--oil to latex.), repaired the removal and nail damage and repainted as there are adhesion problems in lower layers. Once done they were not in good enough condition to go back to natural wood, but look brand new repainted.
Another project...wife just emailed me that 'oh those laundry pedestals would be awesome'...
Yes...at $500-600 for both washer and dryer...
FML...
Yes...at $500-600 for both washer and dryer...
FML...
Our house came with a dryer pedestal. It was stored in a cold room. Judging by wall holes, it was in at some point. I added it back as with ours installed backwards (washing machine on right), it is easier to transfer with the dryer raised. No washer pedestal came with the house. If I did buy one, it was in the ballpark of $1000 and had a little washing machine in it. Forget that.
Tbh, the pedestal holds oxiclean and dirt. That's it. I would likely not pay for another one.
I would save the money from the pedestal and put it towards one of the all-in-one washer/dryer units. No more moving clothes across, no more forgetting wet clothes in the washer, no pumping conditioned air outside, heat pump so far cheaper to run, etc. Downside is a cycle takes longer. That's not a big deal if you throw in a load and go to sleep. It will be ready in the morning. I'll get one at some point and plan on keeping the dryer. On days where things need to get done quickly, run the pair as we do now. The vast majority of the time, the dryer would sit unused.
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Any real benefit of the one you linked versus the one I've used before?
I've got maybe 75-100sqft of the stuff to use.
Getting sick and tired of looking at our garbage basement so will be starting up hopefully this weekend.
01. Clear out all the junk
02. TYVEK against the block
03. Rigid Insulation + furring on all walls
04. Lay down the DRI-CORE
05. Install drywall
06. Install flooring (still debating on vinyl planks or tiles, or even some laminate as I've got a few boxes left over from our reno and it would match the rest of the basement)
07. Install pony panel (have an old 100A laying around).
08. Remove old cabinets and sink
09. Install new cabinets and sink
10. Install drop ceiling (or something to cover up)
The one I posted is cheaper and has no wood in it to cause issues.
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Thanks!
I’ll also have to replace some copper pipes with something else as they’re against the wall and will need to be moved away.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Don’t. I have one in my small house - it washes fine but takes 2-3 hours to dry a full load, sometimes it needs more.
The all in ones that are vented work fantastic - a bit more energy, but you can 2 loads in one evening.
I would never consider the all-in-one condensing washer/dryers as the primary unit for a family.
I am considering one as a supplementary unit when we renovate the first floor bathroom. Sort of an age in place idea to reduce the need to be going down to the basement when we retire, the small size can work here, condo size stacked in the same place would take away a lot of needed storage.
I am considering one as a supplementary unit when we renovate the first floor bathroom. Sort of an age in place idea to reduce the need to be going down to the basement when we retire, the small size can work here, condo size stacked in the same place would take away a lot of needed storage.
Recommendations on this 
show and how to fix this gap…
show and how to fix this gap…
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Those are caps that were not cut using a stair gauge.
You have 2 problems. 1, the obvious gaps between stringer and tread, and 2) the bullnose is cut short.
It looks like they capped over existing treads, which means you might have another safety issue (can’t tell from pics but I’ve seen this plenty of times but I’ll bet you have 2 rise heights - bottom step tall, mid steps normal.
1. Gaps can be filled with wood filler. Not ideal, but looks better than gaps.
2. Bullnose. Slide in a trim piece between the tread and existing trim. That reduce the chances of losing a baby toe and look better.
If you have multiple rise heights, that’s not worth fixing.
Thanks.
I’m the one that installed them a few years ago when I had water leaking in.
100% my fault and it was my first time doing stairs. Just trying to fix it and make it look better.
However, the ones above it were done by (I assume Kevin) and while they’re better…it’s not by much.
