Electrical Work Guide? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Electrical Work Guide?

sburns

sburns

Well-known member
Hey all, I want to add some aux lighting to my bike, while I am doing that I might add some USB ports as well. So far with my ride I haven't messed with anything electrical. Before I go ahead is there a general guide, best practices, recommended tools etc I can take a look at.
I do have a service manual so I am not totally blind trying this.
 
Don't use the easy splice connectors, they will give your bike the green death very quickly.

951K-(BULK).jpg


You'll hear people argue for and against solder. Solder makes a great connection that doesn't corrode but does make a stiff point that is subject to breaking with vibration over time. I like crimps with waterproof heatshrink (it has glue inside that melts when it gets hot).

I was going to say add an aux power block and run everything from there, but you may already have something. Where did they hook up all of the police crap to your bike? You may even have wires to the aux lights that use to run flashers.
 
GreyGhost said:
You'll hear people argue for and against solder. Solder makes a great connection that doesn't corrode but does make a stiff point that is subject to breaking with vibration over time.
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While I can see the logic, I do wonder how many failed solder points were a product of bad soldering. I see more matte or mottled solder points than I do shiny ones, and I'd be willing to bet most don't tin the individual wires first.

I also put heatshrink across the solder to brace the weak point of the wires just before the splice, then usually electrical tape over that if it's part of a bundle.

Still, the fact that I describe a weak point suggests it's not ideal...
 
Priller said:
While I can see the logic, I do wonder how many failed solder points were a product of bad soldering. I see more matte or mottled solder points than I do shiny ones, and I'd be willing to bet most don't tin the individual wires first.

I also put heatshrink across the solder to brace the weak point of the wires just before the splice, then usually electrical tape over that if it's part of a bundle.

Still, the fact that I describe a weak point suggests it's not ideal...
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The breaks I have seen were not in the solder joint, they were at an edge. Basically a stress riser. Your shrink wrap/tape spreads that bending stress over a larger section of wire.
 
GreyGhost said:
Don't use the easy splice connectors, they will give your bike the green death very quickly.

951K-(BULK).jpg


You'll hear people argue for and against solder. Solder makes a great connection that doesn't corrode but does make a stiff point that is subject to breaking with vibration over time. I like crimps with waterproof heatshrink (it has glue inside that melts when it gets hot).

I was going to say add an aux power block and run everything from there, but you may already have something. Where did they hook up all of the police crap to your bike? You may even have wires to the aux lights that use to run flashers.
Click to expand...
Oh I am sure there are plenty of aux wiring and circuits in there, which probably means I don't need another fuse block etc. But I am not sure how to track down that stuff. Multimeter?
 
sburns said:
Oh I am sure there are plenty of aux wiring and circuits in there, which probably means I don't need another fuse block etc. But I am not sure how to track down that stuff. Multimeter?
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Eyeballs and multimeter should work. Since you are powering up circuits that haven't been used for a while, try to look along the path travelled and check places where it may rub for wear. An inductive tracer can help you quickly trace things but I wouldn't buy one just for this. They like to work on unpowered wires or you may smoke the tracer.

5264945.jpg


Keep a book handy and write down wire colours and start and finish locations as you trace things. Add function to the table as you figure that out.
 
Bikes are small - start any new circuit at the battery directly instead of trying to tap into existing wiring, so far as the primary load at least. Add fuses of appropriate amperages and use wire of appropriate gauge.

If you're using existing circuits to fire off the new lights (IE you want them to come on / turn off with the existing headlights) be sure to use relays so you don't overload the existing wiring. Motorcycles are famous for using the bare minimum wiring size and adding additional load is often a recipe for overheating it.
 
Easiest is to buy a fuse block, connect it to the battery, and run your electrical from the block if you have the space for it.
Some of the blocks come with a relay. That way everything will turn off when you turn the engine off.
The best relays will simply plug into your electrical at an existing connector, but they need to be bike specific.
The last thing you might want is a ground block.

Note: Some of the lighting systems are about a foot or so short with the wiring. They assume you'll be going straight to a battery near the front of the bike.
 
Baggsy said:
Easiest is to buy a fuse block, connect it to the battery, and run your electrical from the block if you have the space for it.
Some of the blocks come with a relay. That way everything will turn off when you turn the engine off.
The best relays will simply plug into your electrical at an existing connector, but they need to be bike specific.
The last thing you might want is a ground block.

Note: Some of the lighting systems are about a foot or so short with the wiring. They assume you'll be going straight to a battery near the front of the bike.
Click to expand...
He has an ex-police bike. I don't know what they strip and what they leave. There is a good chance he has circuits and fuses out the wazoo and they just pulled the equipment that was attached..
 
GreyGhost said:
He has an ex-police bike. I don't know what they strip and what they leave. There is a good chance he has circuits and fuses out the wazoo and they just pulled the equipment that was attached..
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Yes this is my thinking as well. Plus typical Harley's due run with lots of other accessories as well, the charge system is rated for 585-650 watts. I've only done a little bit research and there is a accessorie cable/possible curcit which I can tap into. The bike also came with aftermarket heated grips and setup with driving lights on a separate switch then the head light, so there will be a bit of extra stuff I need to figure out. (y)
 
Baggsy said:
Easiest is to buy a fuse block, connect it to the battery, and run your electrical from the block if you have the space for it.
Some of the blocks come with a relay. That way everything will turn off when you turn the engine off.
The best relays will simply plug into your electrical at an existing connector, but they need to be bike specific.
The last thing you might want is a ground block.

Note: Some of the lighting systems are about a foot or so short with the wiring. They assume you'll be going straight to a battery near the front of the bike.
Click to expand...
I thought about that and I definately have the space for it and it would make things simpler, but I believe I have other circuts not being used which I can tap into. It's a full wiring harness on the bike with some extras for the Police bits which have been disconnected. I'll use it as a last resort if I can't figure it out.
 
Hey all, I don't have a multimeter. This is probably something I should have in my toolbox do you have any recommendations for one?
 
sburns said:
Hey all, I don't have a multimeter. This is probably something I should have in my toolbox do you have any recommendations for one?
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Haha, you're not going to like it. Buy once cry once and get a fluke.

For tracing wires, almost anything would work. I used to be ok with the innova ones from Canadian Tire but I had one where all measurements were 30% low. Not cool and causes a lot of head scratching if you don't have something else to compare it to and see that the meter is cacked. Canadian tire puts meters on sale half price often. They will be fine for tracing wires and general maintenance on vehicles. I have used those for AC in the past but there are some clear safety issues when doing that so be very careful. Two meters are helpful to compare readings or get voltage and amperage at the same time. When I was buying cheap meters I avoided autoranging as cheap autoranging was far too slow and would drive you nuts as it missed spikes. I'm not sure if that has improved with modern cheap meters.

EDIT:
I didn't look at the specs but from the picture, there isn't much that this one won't do and it's $35. Cat IV 600V rated (doesn't blow up in your face if you screw up), capacitance (home a/c compressor or furnace fan not working, probably cap died), duty cycle (more and more vehicle lights are using PWM), manual range if you want it, backlit, etc. It doesn't look like it can do temperature but I rarely use a multimeter for temp anyway. It doesn't do true RMS but you probably don't care about that.

 
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GreyGhost said:
Haha, you're not going to like it. Buy once cry once and get a fluke.

For tracing wires, almost anything would work. I used to be ok with the innova ones from Canadian Tire but I had one where all measurements were 30% low. Not cool and causes a lot of head scratching if you don't have something else to compare it to and see that the meter is cacked. Canadian tire puts meters on sale half price often. They will be fine for tracing wires and general maintenance on vehicles. I have used those for AC in the past but there are some clear safety issues when doing that so be very careful. Two meters are helpful to compare readings or get voltage and amperage at the same time. When I was buying cheap meters I avoided autoranging as cheap autoranging was far too slow and would drive you nuts as it missed spikes. I'm not sure if that has improved with modern cheap meters.

EDIT:
I didn't look at the specs but from the picture, there isn't much that this one won't do and it's $35. Cat IV 600V rated (doesn't blow up in your face if you screw up), capacitance (home a/c compressor or furnace fan not working, probably cap died), duty cycle (more and more vehicle lights are using PWM), manual range if you want it, backlit, etc. It doesn't look like it can do temperature but I rarely use a multimeter for temp anyway. It doesn't do true RMS but you probably don't care about that.

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Thanks GG, a lot of what you said it over my head. Never really did any electrical work on a vehicle before. I'll just let it sink in ?
Looks like a good options thanks for that!
 
When I install accessories on a bike, I almost always use an auxiliary connection that gets controlled by a simple automotive style relay. Depending on how many accessories you are planning to add will determine what extra stuff you may need.

Parts:
  • 1 automotive relay with pigtail plug
  • Optional: 1 on/off toggle switch (if you are switching them independent of your headlights)
  • length of 12 or 14-ga. wire
If you need a drawing or an explanation of the circuit, just ask. You will need to decide on the following:

Do you want the ability to switch the AUX lights on when the key is off?
Do you want the AUX lights to come on when your headlights are switched on?
Do you need a separate switch for your AUX lights?
 
sburns said:
Hey all, I don't have a multimeter. This is probably something I should have in my toolbox do you have any recommendations for one?
Click to expand...

I have a spare one that you can have if you want to pick it up. IIRC it’s from radio shack but it does what most would need. I’ll have to look for it but pretty sure I know where it is.

PM me if interested.

Also the one GG posted should be sufficient for most jobs.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
 
Mad Mike said:
When I install accessories on a bike, I almost always use an auxiliary connection that gets controlled by a simple automotive style relay. Depending on how many accessories you are planning to add will determine what extra stuff you may need.

Parts:
  • 1 automotive relay with pigtail plug
  • Optional: 1 on/off toggle switch (if you are switching them independent of your headlights)
  • length of 12 or 14-ga. wire
If you need a drawing or an explanation of the circuit, just ask. You will need to decide on the following:

Do you want the ability to switch the AUX lights on when the key is off?
Do you want the AUX lights to come on when your headlights are switched on?
Do you need a separate switch for your AUX lights?
Click to expand...
Hey Mike, thanks for this.

For what I want to do is have the AUX lights switch on separately from my other lights (head light, driving lights). These AUX lights are for me to use when driving at night basically (will hang off crash bars). I did buy an extra handle bar switch for them. But I could also use the siern switch on my bike if I can figure all this out, it currently does nothing.

Apparently in the wiring harness there is a ACC circuit I can tap into, which is found under the seat. HD sells a accessory cable to run it up to the front fairing. I don't think I need this though.

I'm actually a little unclear what the relay does for me? I did a quick google and there was some mention of high and low current adaption.
 
sburns said:
Hey Mike, thanks for this.

For what I want to do is have the AUX lights switch on separately from my other lights (head light, driving lights). These AUX lights are for me to use when driving at night basically (will hang off crash bars). I did buy an extra handle bar switch for them. But I could also use the siern switch on my bike if I can figure all this out, it currently does nothing.

Apparently in the wiring harness there is a ACC circuit I can tap into, which is found under the seat. HD sells a accessory cable to run it up to the front fairing. I don't think I need this though.

I'm actually a little unclear what the relay does for me? I did a quick google and there was some mention of high and low current adaption.
Click to expand...
Relay lets the switch control a tiny amount of power (and therefore extends switch life and allows small wires to switch) while controlling big power through big wires to lights.
 
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