Electrical Work Guide?

[Mad Mike]

OK, so here is where to start.

1) The ACC circuit. Personally I would not connect lights to an ACC circuit, they are drawing a lot of power. This is where the relay comes in handy.

The relay is basically an electrical switch. It takes a high capacity feed directly from the battery to it's input terminal then connects it through an internal switch to the load (your lights). You can run up to 30A at 12V thru a relay without worrying about frying electrics (don't know the capacity of you acc circuit, but I'll bet its lower than what lights like). The ACC circuit gets connected to the relay trigger, when it supplies power to the relay the relay closes and you have high power to the lights on the out side of the relay. If you want the lights to work through a switch, you simply connect the output of the relay to the handlebar switch.

2) Sorting the switch. If the Siren Switch is momentary (like a horn or start switch) then you can't use it. If it's a simple On/Off, it's useable - you will need to isolate the wires going to the switch in order to get help reusing it.

If you have a simple handlebar switch, one side goes to the + wires (usually red) on the AUX lights, the other side to power.

 

[Baggsy]

My taillights only come on when the motorcycle is turned on. If I want my auxiliary headlights to do the same. I connect the relay to the taillight circuit with a positap or in my case a pair of connectors that plug into the wiring harness. A tiny bit of power will go through this circuit when the taillights are turned on. This would be 85 & 86. Then you connect your auxiliary headlight through the relay to the voltage source and back to ground. 30 & 87. Not sure if this is understandable enough.

Edit: Let me know if I've messed anything up.

 

[Mad Mike]

My taillights only come on when the motorcycle is turned on. If I want my auxiliary headlights to do the same. I connect the relay to the taillight circuit with a positap or in my case a pair of connectors that plug into the wiring harness. A tiny bit of power will go through this circuit when the taillights are turned on. This would be 85 & 86. Then you connect your auxiliary headlight through the relay to the voltage source and back to ground. 30 & 87. Not sure if this is understandable enough.

Edit: Let me know if I've messed anything up.

The schematic could be better drawn, it's not incorrect just not conventional.

Pin 30 is connected directly to the primary power source (typically the battery + terminal)
Pin 87 is connected to the + side of the aux light, it provides power to the light.
Pin 85 is connected to ground (frame or battery), not likely one would install a switch in this setup.
Pin 86 is connected to the + side of your tail light (should be labelled trigger, not power source).

I would never use

 

[Baggsy]

The schematic could be better drawn, it's not incorrect just not conventional.

Pin 30 is connected directly to the primary power source (typically the battery + terminal)
Pin 87 is connected to the + side of the aux light, it provides power to the light.
Pin 85 is connected to ground (frame or battery), not likely one would install a switch in this setup.
Pin 86 is connected to the + side of your tail light (should be labelled trigger, not power source).

I would never use

Sorry, just picked a random pic.

 

[PrivatePilot]

I have this multimeter I picked up from Canadian Tire 6 or 8 years ago that has served me very well despite a lot of abuse.

I actually have 3 multimeters but 2 are positively ancient hand-me-downs....one being an old Radio Shack with a needle instead of a display LOL.

But they all still work.

Honestly, for a hobbyist who just wants volt readings for 120v & 12v as well as ohms (useful for tracing circuits) you don't need a super expensive multimeter. I know where GreyGhost is coming from with his suggestion to buy a quality unit upfront, but again, for a hobbyist, it may be an overkill.

Canadian Tire has this one on sale half off right now - looks like an updated version of the ruggedized one I posted the photo of.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/autoranging-digital-multimeter-0520052p.html#srp

Accurate to 0.01%? Probably not. More than adequate for checking voltages, polarities, and tracing wires? Absolutely.

 

[Mad Mike]

View attachment 48516

I have this multimeter I picked up from Canadian Tire 6 or 8 years ago that has served me very well despite a lot of abuse.

I actually have 3 multimeters but 2 are positively ancient hand-me-downs....one being an old Radio Shack with a needle instead of a display LOL.

But they all still work.

Honestly, for a hobbyist who just wants volt readings for 120v & 12v as well as ohms (useful for tracing circuits) you don't need a super expensive multimeter. I know where GreyGhost is coming from with his suggestion to buy a quality unit upfront, but again, for a hobbyist, it may be an overkill.

Canadian Tire has this one on sale half off right now - looks like an updated version of the ruggedized one I posted the photo of.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/autoranging-digital-multimeter-0520052p.html#srp

Accurate to 0.01%? Probably not. More than adequate for checking voltages, polarities, and tracing wires? Absolutely.

Just buy good leads, that's the weakest spot for cheap meters.

By the way, that CTC meter is pretty good, they outlasted my $500 Fluke.

 

[sburns]

View attachment 48516

I have this multimeter I picked up from Canadian Tire 6 or 8 years ago that has served me very well despite a lot of abuse.

I actually have 3 multimeters but 2 are positively ancient hand-me-downs....one being an old Radio Shack with a needle instead of a display LOL.

But they all still work.

Honestly, for a hobbyist who just wants volt readings for 120v & 12v as well as ohms (useful for tracing circuits) you don't need a super expensive multimeter. I know where GreyGhost is coming from with his suggestion to buy a quality unit upfront, but again, for a hobbyist, it may be an overkill.

Canadian Tire has this one on sale half off right now - looks like an updated version of the ruggedized one I posted the photo of.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/autoranging-digital-multimeter-0520052p.html#srp

Accurate to 0.01%? Probably not. More than adequate for checking voltages, polarities, and tracing wires? Absolutely.

Hmm that's the same link @GreyGhost posted?? Was it suppose to be different?

I've done a little bit of googling and some recommend either Fluke or KlienTools, those seem like great tools but way more then I need. Then others will suggest something similar to the CT one or a Princess Auto model will do the trick for less.

 

[PrivatePilot]

I have a friend who makes do with a $10 analogue one he bought at Princess Auto.

For someone who just needs the absolute basics....they will get the job done. He probably uses it maybe once a year to check the voltage on a battery or whatever, and didn't even know how to use the ohm setting to trace wiring continuity until I showed him how, so a $500 fluke that does all sorts of other stuff he'll never need or even know how to use is, yeah, overkill.

 

[GreyGhost]

Hmm that's the same link @GreyGhost posted?? Was it suppose to be different?

I've done a little bit of googling and some recommend either Fluke or KlienTools, those seem like great tools but way more then I need. Then others will suggest something similar to the CT one or a Princess Auto model will do the trick for less.

I dont see a good reason to buy Klein multimeters. I would go cheap or good and Klein is in the middle.

 

[bitzz]

I wouldn't be shopping for a multi-meter at Canadian Tire.
They're cheap, but do not last... because they're cheap.
Buy a name brand. I had a Fluke 115 for 20 yrs, till it got stolen.
You can get a Fluke 117 for just over $100 out of China. (FIND A REAL ONE. A REAL Fluke meter has a HUGE 600v fuse. No one else does).
You can get a UNI-T for the same price as that Crappy Tire meter, around $30, but it has a real fuse AND is TRUE RMS, so you can use it as a tach. The compareable Canadian Tire meter is over $100

32.99US $ 30% OFF|UNI T UT89X UT89XD Professional Digital Multimeter True RMS NCV 20A Current AC DC Voltmeter Capacitance Resistance Tester|Multimeters| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

UNI-T makes a "automotive" multi-meter. Pretty cool.

51.17US $ 36% OFF|UNI T UT108 Handheld Automotive Multipurpose Meters Auto Range Multimeter USB PC Connect AC DC V/A Ohm|uni-t ut108|multimeter usbauto range multimeter - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

The "fuse" isn't usually a problem unless you want to test real voltage/amperage. Cheapo meter use a small mini fuse, and a 600 volt charge can arc across the fuse.
And if you buy a decent meter the batteries last forever.

 

[PrivatePilot]

Aliexpress? Isn't that just only slightly above Wish?

 

[bitzz]

Those BOSCH style relays are WAY too big for motorcycle wiring.
I use "mini" relays

https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/8927536067738263319

 

[bitzz]

Aliexpress? Isn't that just only slightly above Wish?

I dunno
When you google UNI-T UT890C+ that was one of the first links.

 

[PrivatePilot]

I wouldn't be shopping for a multi-meter at Canadian Tire.
They're cheap, but do not last... because they're cheap.

Meh, that one I posted a photo of has to be 15 years old and is still working perfectly. I just used it about a week ago when adding some new electrical farkles to our camper.

I have a feeling a lot of people are looking at this from the perspective of the trades. If you're a diesel mechanic you're not going to buy Princess Auto tools or Canadian Tire multimeters. I get it. I agree, you buy the quality stuff.

But..... If you're someone who is only going to dig out that multimeter every 5 years and just need a basic socket set to change the oil on your bike and other simple maintenance items, that Canadian Tire multimeter and the Princess Auto socket & ratchet set is going to get the job done, and you won't have $1500 tied up in overkill equipment.

I get the quality may not be the exact same, but to automatically dismiss longevity isn't necessarily fair either. I have a cheap-ass "Power Fist" air compressor I bought at Princess Auto for $250 or something like that 15 years ago...and despite a ton of use (and some abuse) it's still going - just used it yesterday. Yeah, I could have bought a $1500 Ingersoll Rand instead, but that would be overkill.

Regarding Relays, I'm a fan of the oldschool Bosch styles. Simple, common, and cheap. And if it ***** the bed on the road somewhere you can buy a replacement at a ton of different places. I have experienced that before (while hauling my old horse trailer which had eleventy million lights and apparently overloaded even the relay I'd installed) and I appreciated being able to find a replacement at a Canadian Tire.

 

[oioioi]

FLUKE meters are simply the best in the industry but the price of them might be an overkill and not warranted for some.

I would even look for a used fluke multimeter if possible.

Either way, its is simple tool that every man should own and know how to use its basic features. Sort of like owning a hammer.

I have 3 multi meters. One Fluke and 2 made my ideal.
If you want, you can borrow one of them for your project. I don't mind lending it out but it is an investment what you will not regret.

If you cannot justify a the price of a FLUKE, any reputable brand will also do. Even one from Crappy Tire or Home Depot. Unless you are going to be using it to fix the International Space Station.

 

[GreyGhost]

If you cannot justify a the price of a FLUKE, any reputable brand will also do. Even one from Crappy Tire or Home Depot. Unless you are going to be using it to fix the International Space Station.

Even within Fluke, you need to pick your weapon. I was overseas helping a client troubleshoot some issues and they pulled out a Fluke 1** to try to track down a short in an equipment rack. wtf. Wrong tool for the job and it took us ten times as long as if we had the proper meter (for instance an 87V). The 1** didn't have the resolution to quickly tell whether you were getting closer to the short with the probe. For a bike, it wouldn't matter which one you had.

 

[Mad Mike]

Those BOSCH style relays are WAY too big for motorcycle wiring.
I use "mini" relays

https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/8927536067738263319

Standard automotive relays are a couple of bucks with a socket. They usually have a built in mounting tab, I’m sure finding 2 cubic inches on a bagger won’t be tough. I have mine mounted to the front fairing stays on my FJR and Vstrom. Easy peazy, KISS theory.

Micro relays aren’t as simple to mount, most are designed to be pcb mounted, you’d have to find suitable cable connections and mechanical mount.

 

[oioioi]

I dont see a good reason to buy Klein multimeters. I would go cheap or good and Klein is in the middle.

As much as Klein is known for their electrical trade tools, they DO NOT make their own multimeter.

It is simply a rebranded generic multimeter with a face lift of some other brand. Possibly an additional feature.

I had one fail out of the box last year while at a cottage and needed it to troubleshoot a boat issue. Bought it a HD in Huntsville but it was DOA.

I think HD sells their Klein ones right next to the General Electric brand which are pretty much the same thing with different price point.

As GG said, either go big or go inexpensive.

Just make sure it is at least a digital one. Makes it easier to read the readings.

 

[kurtrules]

Since we're talking electrical work, I blew a 3A fuse on the V Strom buy running a mini compressor via the 12V socket. Can someone suggest where I can purchase a replacement/buy a set of extra fuses at additional amperages? Couldn't find reliable information on google. TIA!

 

[GreyGhost]

Since we're talking electrical work, I blew a 3A fuse on the V Strom buy running a mini compressor via the 12V socket. Can someone suggest where I can purchase a replacement/buy a set of extra fuses at additional amperages? Couldn't find reliable information on google. TIA!

Ummm. What is the circuit rated for? Three amps seems low but you can't just upsize a fuse beyond the circuit design capacity. Assuming 3A was the proper fuse, you need to add an additional circuit with larger wiring and a larger fuse if you want more power out of a 12V socket.