Difficulty of Chain / Sprocket replacement. | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Difficulty of Chain / Sprocket replacement.

Wingboy said:
The Motion Pro tool i linked to tells you if the chain is coming off the sprocket straight.You can also buy one that uses a laser pointer.Works even better.
www.mandp.co.uk

Laser D-Cat Dot Chain Alignment Tool | FREE UK DELIVERY | Flexible Ways To Pay | M&P

www.mandp.co.uk www.mandp.co.uk
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You might be scaring him out of trying this service. Changing a chain and sprocket set is basic stuff - easier than changing a bike tube or tire.

You don’t need lasers or micrometers, use the index marks on the tensioner, and verify visually by rotating the wheel while on the center stand.
 
Mad Mike said:
You might be scaring him out of trying this service. Changing a chain and sprocket set is basic stuff - easier than changing a bike tube or tire.

You don’t need lasers or micrometers, use the index marks on the tensioner, and verify visually by rotating the wheel while on the center stand.
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We used mainly the indicators on the tensioner with basically the same bike as the OP and it worked. So another vote of confidence for the simple approach
 
Murdoch said:
Is that what that tool is for? I may be showing my ignorance, but I always thought that was for seeing if your axle was perpendicular to the chain?

And my two cents on chain rivet tools, buy a halfway decent one, don't trust your life to pot metal.

Not an endorsement, but an fyi:
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My friend lent me this tool. It works great, but I still grind the heads off the pins just to make sure I don't have to buy him a new pin. Don't forget to grease the threads before starting also.
 
I was buying the rivet chains and that’s why I have the rivet tool, but the last few chains I used the screw type link from EK and I think I’ll stick with those. I find them faster and simple to install.

I also have that motion pro tool, but feel pretty fine to just eyeball the chain (in addition to using the marks on the swing arm). I know it’s not the most precise method, but neither am I, so take my opinions what they are!

Swing by if you want to use my lift, tools and rivet tool and do the swap in my garage.
 
Difficult to find a 520/41T sprocket for the rear. Fort mine is basically fully out.

Found the EK chain and front sprocket so will keep looking now. Or I’ll just get the set for $270 as once I buy the parts individually the difference is very small.

Stupid question….can I use the EK link with a different brand chain?
 
mimico_polak said:
Difficult to find a 520/41T sprocket for the rear. Fort mine is basically fully out.

Found the EK chain and front sprocket so will keep looking now. Or I’ll just get the set for $270 as once I buy the parts individually the difference is very small.

Stupid question….can I use the EK link with a different brand chain?
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Apparently 41/42/43 are common for that bike. If going up a tooth or two solves your supply issue, personally I would go that route. I have a BNIB sprocket in the garage but I checked and it is 525 so didn't bother investigating if BCD works.
 
mimico_polak said:
Difficult to find a 520/41T sprocket for the rear. Fort mine is basically fully out.

Found the EK chain and front sprocket so will keep looking now. Or I’ll just get the set for $270 as once I buy the parts individually the difference is very small.

Stupid question….can I use the EK link with a different brand chain?
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Tried the dealer ? No, master links do not generally interchange.
 
GreyGhost said:
Apparently 41/42/43 are common for that bike. If going up a tooth or two solves your supply issue, personally I would go that route. I have a BNIB sprocket in the garage but I checked and it is 525 so didn't bother investigating if BCD works.
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Yeah one tooth at the back wont make much of a difference

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mimico_polak said:
Difficult to find a 520/41T sprocket for the rear. Fort mine is basically fully out.

Found the EK chain and front sprocket so will keep looking now. Or I’ll just get the set for $270 as once I buy the parts individually the difference is very small.

Stupid question….can I use the EK link with a different brand chain?
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if you dont mind the shorten the chain buy them individually might save ur some
i also have chain tool(KM500) u can borrow.
rear sprocket $40.22
front sprocket $27.99
chain with master link $133.99 (cut to fit 112)
 
Since this thread is active I have two more questions:
1. How/what do you use to clean off the muck/old grease off the bike?
2. I’m sorry in advance….I’m an idiot and only bought 2L of 10w50 oil….now I can’t find Lucas 10w50. Will my motor be messed if I toss in 1L of 10w40 (same or diff brand) as that is much easier to find.
 
mimico_polak said:
Since this thread is active I have two more questions:
1. How/what do you use to clean off the muck/old grease off the bike?
2. I’m sorry in advance….I’m an idiot and only bought 2L of 10w50 oil….now I can’t find Lucas 10w50. Will my motor be messed if I toss in 1L of 10w40 (same or diff brand) as that is much easier to find.
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1. It depends where it is. Hot soapy water works. Simple green works. On the rims/engine case and a few other places I will sometimes use a pressure washer. It blasts the crap all over though so I'm not sure it saves much time. Pressure washer never comes near a seal.

2. I would not be mixing oils. I don't believe in motorcycle specific oils. I would pick up 3L of something and save the lucas for the next time after you get another bottle.
 
mimico_polak said:
Since this thread is active I have two more questions:
1. How/what do you use to clean off the muck/old grease off the bike?
2. I’m sorry in advance….I’m an idiot and only bought 2L of 10w50 oil….now I can’t find Lucas 10w50. Will my motor be messed if I toss in 1L of 10w40 (same or diff brand) as that is much easier to find.
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1. it depends where exactly
if its dirt/muc build up, i use a dry rag first to remove excess
then depending on where it is, simple green can work great for degreasing, let it "rest" for about a minute and then agitate with a soft brush or a rag and then rinse off
if its on paint you might want to stick to automotive soaps after you do an initial rinse. suggested not to use power washers
 
Thanks guys. Always love the quick and informative responses.

@GreyGhost the 10W50 is already in the motor. I’ll hit up a few more CT stores today to hopefully find it. If not I’ll have to drain it and refill I guess with 10w40.
 
mimico_polak said:
That’s what I read on the interwebs…and I know much you all love oil threads….
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The math's wrong. 2L of 10W50 plus 1L of 10W40 is ~10W47.

In all seriousness, the only time I mix oil is for the dashpot in the carb on the mini. Thicker oil slows the slide down. You need somewhere between motor oil and gear oil to get it right or there is a hole when you floor it.
 
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