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Cam Chain tensioner total cost
- Thread starter treyc1
- Start date
Herbxx: 10 minutes for someone experienced perhaps. We don't know his abilities, he may not know. On my bike to change the cam chain tensioner involves removing the cylinder cover and probably other bits and then there's the whole resealing cover etc. So really at an absolute minimum, 1 hour for an experienced pro due to disassembly and reassembly. I think this is very bike specific and experience specific. I had an incident yesterday with a cam chain tensioner which I'll be posting a report on later.
frekeyguy
Well-known member
yes 10mins to change it. How long to get to it and put everything back on ??
Shortierider
Well-known member
mine is leaking oil , $8 part and was told about an hour labour ..
I go to speedworx in markham
I go to speedworx in markham
Shortierider
Well-known member
GateKeeper
Well-known member
Are you not able to fix and repair this leak on your own, seems to be 2 screws, change the gasket\seal and reinstall, adjust proper tension and you should be good to go....
.
If you are not technically inclined yourself, get Speedworx to do it.
Cost of aftermarket manual tensioner: $50.00
Cost of rebuilding the engine as a result of buggering the cam timing and/or failing to set the tension correctly: $5000.00
I've found that the best way to adjust these is to put them in with the plunger retracted all the way then spin the bolt in with your fingers until you feel resistance slightly increase, then take the crankcase end cover off and rotate the engine with a ratchet slowly while continuing to apply tightening torque with your fingers to the tensioner's center bolt; once it finds an equilibrium position in which the bolt does not want to turn in any more with your fingers, back out approx 2 flats of the hex and lock it in place there.
DO NOT tighten the tensioning bolt with a wrench, use your fingers only!
Because this has to be done by feel ... do you have the right feel for it - or not??
Cost of aftermarket manual tensioner: $50.00
Cost of rebuilding the engine as a result of buggering the cam timing and/or failing to set the tension correctly: $5000.00
I've found that the best way to adjust these is to put them in with the plunger retracted all the way then spin the bolt in with your fingers until you feel resistance slightly increase, then take the crankcase end cover off and rotate the engine with a ratchet slowly while continuing to apply tightening torque with your fingers to the tensioner's center bolt; once it finds an equilibrium position in which the bolt does not want to turn in any more with your fingers, back out approx 2 flats of the hex and lock it in place there.
DO NOT tighten the tensioning bolt with a wrench, use your fingers only!
Because this has to be done by feel ... do you have the right feel for it - or not??
Oh god. Brian P just spiked my anxiety. I will be writing later about what ended up happening but part of what was/is necessary was to lock the cam chain tensioner for my incomplete job. I didn't however count the turns. For some reason I was thinking it was an auto tensioning tensioner. Now I have to remove the side of the engine?
Sunspark, what engine (make/model/year) and are you talking about the original-equipment tensioner, or is it an aftermarket one as shown in post #10 of this thread?
All timing chain tensioners must be installed in the released position then allowed to take up the slack. That is the "objective". How, exactly, that is achieved, depends on the design. The manual tensioner has to be installed more or less as described above.
Here is one design of automatic tensioner http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforu...ter-overhaul&p=2113102&viewfull=1#post2113102
There is another design that uses a spring-loaded coarse-pitch internal screw. On those, you take a screw off the end, which reveals a slotted screw head inside, and you turn that to release the tensioner and hold it from pushing out while installing the tensioner on the engine, then let it go to allow the spring to push the tensioner plunger out.
All timing chain tensioners must be installed in the released position then allowed to take up the slack. That is the "objective". How, exactly, that is achieved, depends on the design. The manual tensioner has to be installed more or less as described above.
Here is one design of automatic tensioner http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforu...ter-overhaul&p=2113102&viewfull=1#post2113102
There is another design that uses a spring-loaded coarse-pitch internal screw. On those, you take a screw off the end, which reveals a slotted screw head inside, and you turn that to release the tensioner and hold it from pushing out while installing the tensioner on the engine, then let it go to allow the spring to push the tensioner plunger out.
Did you put a gasket on there before intalling it?
If not or it just needs to be replaced then take it off, replace gasket and put back on. The adjustment is locked in. Just dont touch the middle big bolt
Kawasaki normally uses the spring-loaded-screw type - same as Sunspark's photo. Before installing them, they have to be retracted by turning the central screw to shorten the plunger and holding that screw in position (to stop it from extending) until the two bolts securing it to the engine block are tightened. Then let go of the central screw and it should automatically extend (you'll hear it spin) to take up the slack.
By the way, it's bunk that the valve cover has to come off to change that tensioner. That's only if the cam timing has to be verified in the process of doing so (i.e. the chain jumped a tooth). DO NOT rotate the engine at all if the tensioner is not installed!
How much do you think that would cost if I went to a shop?
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