where can i buy a cable lube kit for lubing my clutch cable? i found on ebay but its $40 including shipping
cable lube kit?
- Thread starter elton_t
- Start date
Check princess auto ..
Im sure i seen one there for $10 ..
Im sure i seen one there for $10 ..
This is the one I'll likely be buying.
http://www.gpbikes.com/eshopprod_ca...8507_keyword_tools.MOTION_PRO_CABLE_LUBER.htm
http://www.gpbikes.com/eshopprod_ca...8507_keyword_tools.MOTION_PRO_CABLE_LUBER.htm
Check this place, I got mine there.
http://www.xs650direct.com/products-7.html?category_id=7.1
Cable Luber - Yamaha pressure type
Product Photo
Cable Luber - Yamaha pressure type (Sold each)
Water & dirt are blown down cable by lubricant when pressure spray can nozzle
is applied. Spray lube sold by most bike shops.
Part #35-0108
$4.41 CAD Ea
http://www.xs650direct.com/products-7.html?category_id=7.1
Cable Luber - Yamaha pressure type
Product Photo
Cable Luber - Yamaha pressure type (Sold each)
Water & dirt are blown down cable by lubricant when pressure spray can nozzle
is applied. Spray lube sold by most bike shops.
Part #35-0108
$4.41 CAD Ea
Go to Lowes and buy the Teflon multi lube for your chain .. good stuff and is around $7 a can.
thanks man thats a deal! can it be used for clutch cable lube also?
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Princess auto sells em for like $5
GRAYZ
Well-known member
Has anyone actually felt that their cables *needed* lubing, or is this just assumed? I thought all cables were Teflon coated, so didn't require additional lubrication? Never done it on mine, and if you start to feel your cable stick/grab, you'll likely need to replace the whole thing anyway.
The cable is stranded. If it starts to corrode then individual strands can bend back, causing it to jam. Lubing it helps keep this from happening. It's cheap and easy maintenance.
I can feel my clutch cable needing lube via the gradual increasing pressure needed to pull the clutch lever. I lube it about ever 10,000 kms. Takes about 15 minutes; I am slow, put rags on tank, cover gauges... in case some spray gets on them just makes it easier to clean them). Also some form of lube on the clutch lever pivot point (bolt removal required).
The increased resistance is felt more with a cable than has turns and bends in it as it routes from the lever to the engine's clutch actuator. Some bikes it is a near straight run but many have 1 -3 noticeable bends.
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GRAYZ
Well-known member
I know that this was true for non-Teflon coated cables, but isn't the whole reason for Teflon coating to protect this from happening? Definitely if strands start bending back, you'll need a new cable anyway.
I can see a rationale for cleaning out debris via contact cleaner... lubing may also attract more dirt so it seems once you start you have to keep it up regularly. I'm still trying to find a convincing argument for its benefits over just leaving them alone...
If you lube, then you delay the amount of time before you get cable fraying. That was my point. Not all cables are Teflon coated.
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frekeyguy
Well-known member
that's why you use oil based lube that dries....like WD-40...it will clean out the cable and will dry a bit....not like wax based lube or chain lube that clings a lot more
jefflthomas
Active member
109480km on the original cables
GRAYZ
Well-known member
For sure, and just to be clear it is the inside housing that is either Teflon, nylon, or polyethelene coated. So you have steel sliding on synthetic, which is why it is so effective. I'm not saying lubing cables is wrong, just that it is a preference. Like cooking your eggs in butter on your non-stick T-Fal pan.
Jebus, kinda struck a nerve with some of you on this... glad I didn't ask what oil you're using in your bikes...
Nope, no nerves struck. It's just that it's only a 'preference' if you don't mind premature failure, of the component. If your talking about a Teflon sleeve, then that does absolutely nothing to prevent corrosion.
GRAYZ
Well-known member
Lol, OK I was expecting that..
Stainless steel only corrodes under specific conditions, and they are not likely to occur inside the sheath. Here's an interesting page about it: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=95
Hence the reason I've been insistent on this topic, and I'm not the only one with this position. I know 2 shops in Toronto that advise against any cleaning/lubing of cables, the Motorcycle Maintenance program at Centennial College says not to do it, and one Clymer manual I saw for a ZX6 strongly advised against this practice.
Stainless clutch and throttle cables don't rust, and corrosion only occurs in highly specific circumstances that don't exist on a bike (see the link.) That's why they are great for this purpose. As long as the housing remains intact, there is no way you can get fraying of the cable within the sheath with normal use. At the ends, different story since there is metal-metal contact and repetitive bending/fatigue (just to be clear.) The only plausible rationale for flushing the cable with any solution is to clean crud out that might cause the cable to stick. But in this case any benefit is from removing debris, not lubing it specifically.
I'm happy to be proven wrong, and Rob your input has often been informative and helpful, but unless anyone can post a pic of a cable that has failed/corroded within the sheath from lack of lubrication I still have to see this as something people do just because it "seems like a good idea."
Sorry, couldn't find any pictures. Just comments from people, who had cable failures while touring. Maybe some of us are just dinosaurs, who do things because they were needed in the past, but old habits (that worked) die hard :lol:
*EDIT* My service manual also indicates that cable lubing is a requirement, and I picked up a lube block, and some cable specific lubricant today while I was buying a new pair of boots.
*EDIT* My service manual also indicates that cable lubing is a requirement, and I picked up a lube block, and some cable specific lubricant today while I was buying a new pair of boots.
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