Relax
Well-known member
Please post results when you do!
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Bike won't start
- Thread starter timtune
- Start date
Please post results when you do!
This is what had me checking every bolt, connection, and fuse. Right after trying to start it, the voltage sagged to 6~8V. Off the tender, almost dead on same voltage as you, ~12.6V
12.6v static .06v key on.
I've learned a valuable lesson. Like any good engineer would tell you the static load is only half the story consider the dynamic load.
Yup
Relax
Well-known member
Wow, never seen one go THAT low before, especially if it was working fine just before the winter. I'd be worried about your Battery Tender.
Snow City, GP Bikes, and Royal Distributing all carry Yuasa batteries. I think the Yuasa page has a dealer lookup as well.
TK4
Well-known member
Made in Japan Yuasa battery prices have doubled over the last 2 years for whatever reason. Most Yuasa's you find now are made in USA by Interstate.
boyoboy
Well-known member
what am I thinking? from csbk sponsor BS battery (yes bs, go figure) BS BATTERY - The Power you need
Indeed. Is there any way to test them I wonder?
Found my battery but no prices.
TK4
Well-known member
Fortnine doesn't list it ? Even if you don't buy from them you can at least get an idea of $$$.
TK4
Well-known member
Parts Canada has their own branded batteries too, in my experience they're not bad. Not as good as Yuasa but half the price.
Essay time...
Depending on the age of the charger and the documentation available, all you would need is a known good battery and a multimeter. Then something along these lines:
- Connect multimeter across battery and note battery voltage before connecting charger.
- Connect the battery charger to the battery but do not turn it on.
You want to have the multimeter connected first because some smart cycle through different modes and you may be able to cross-reference what you see with what the manual says should be happening. My cheap charger does have a desulphation and soft-start mode. In desuphation mode it yoyos the voltage and current up and down in an attempt to recover sulphated batteries. It also has a soft-start mode where it slowly ramps up the voltage to help with over discharged batteries.
- Connect multimeter across battery and enable battery charger and (set correct mode for battery type if option exists).
- Note charging voltage, and compare with expected values.
In most cases, something between 13-14V is normal, but a smart charger may cycle through different modes depending on the battery health and state of charge. In any case, if it reaches a point where you're getting a charging voltage between 13-14V and it never drops below what the battery was reading by itself, It's most probably fine.
You can then repeat the above process with the multimeter wired and set to read amperage. Most multimeters can only handle 10A max for a short period of time, check rating and directions of the multimeter and output on the charger before you begin testing amperage. Otherwise... a pop, a fizzle, and some magic smoke await.I think AGM batteries do not like constant current chargers but most modern smart chargers are should only do CC up to ~80% and then switch to CV which is an acceptable charging mode.
EDIT: Elaborated on multimeter 10amp max rating as per @GreyGhost comment.
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TK4
Well-known member
Whatever - it's like gasoline, do you want it or not ?
Be careful with this part. Even if they can do 10 amps, most can only do something like 10 seconds at 10 amps and then they need minutes to cool off out of the circuit (or with the circuit off). They are not designed for continual load monitoring.
Greedflation!
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