This didn't happen until recently. When I come to a stop hold the clutch in, release the throttle all the way and brake the bike dies on me. Even if I'm at a full stop clutch all the way in and I let go off the throttle it still dies. After it dies it doesn't want to start. I have to blip the throttle as I'm starting it and even that take me alot of tries untill it works and then I have to keep on the throttle and keep the rpms up or it'll die on me. I just installed a new spark plug and that didn't work. It's not blowing out smoke or nothing I don't know whats wrong and I need to fix it. Anybody can help me out? It's a 2007 cbr 125r fuel injected.
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Bike dies when no throttle applied
- Thread starter Cbr125guy
- Start date
The bike starts and idles fine but once I ride for a bit and come to a stop without giving it throttle it just dies. I don't have a multi meter untill tomorrow hopefully it's just a battery issue I over looked. Also when I'm in 6th gear and apply throttle the bike slows down and the rpms drop to about 6000 even when I'm full throttle. Not sure if it's the bike or beginner error or what but I don't really feel safe going on the highway with the bike cause I have a problem getting highways speeds.
Trials
Well-known member
Check your air box for a mouse nest, if air intake is perfect, it sure sounds like you are running out of air or fuel. What causes a fuel injection Honda to run out of fuel: Water in fuel, dirt in fuel or low fuel pressure for some reason. If it is likely to have ice or water in the fuel from winter storage a little fuel line anti-freeze might help, if it does then that is on the right track, if not, then you need to trouble-shoot more.
Hope this helps some.
Hope this helps some.
mistersouthpaw
Well-known member
I was thinking fuel pump maybe fuel filter on the pump etc. Does the dash display any fault codes? I don’t know if those bikes display codes
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Check and reset the valve clearances. If a valve goes the slightest bit tight on these, they do what's being described. There's only one cylinder, there's no other cylinder to drag it along if that one cylinder loses compression because of a tight valve clearance.
mistersouthpaw
Well-known member
Likely never done on beginner bike as well. Make sure the clearances are as close as possible for each valve
Cbrguy does your fuel injection light come on and remain on? Or any other light on your dash
Trials
Well-known member
Service manual is available free from carlsalter.com if you haven't already downloaded it. Your bike comes with a slew of built in diagnostics that are described in excellent detail in the service manual.
Valve clearance is a good call, it will likely be the first problem that will ever happen to the motor. Compression test might indicate a problem if it is out of adjustment, we are looking for ~195psi according to the manual. Bike is about the right age to need clearance adjustment attention.
Valve clearance is a good call, it will likely be the first problem that will ever happen to the motor. Compression test might indicate a problem if it is out of adjustment, we are looking for ~195psi according to the manual. Bike is about the right age to need clearance adjustment attention.
... and the book calls for it being done every 4000 km, too. Good thing it's a simple job with screw-and-locknut adjusters.
It's fairly likely that after the first couple of adjustments, things will settle down and not need adjusting until much longer intervals, but if that initial adjustment hasn't been done ...
It's fairly likely that after the first couple of adjustments, things will settle down and not need adjusting until much longer intervals, but if that initial adjustment hasn't been done ...
mistersouthpaw
Well-known member
could be a little intimidating for a new rider. They probably need attention but why no issue starting and idling?
TK4
Well-known member
Once you get it running properly, if you feel up for the challenge clean out the oil pump screen (#5)
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Drain the oil, remove the clutch cover, remove the screen and wash it out in Varsol.
There's no gasket, so clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and reseal with 3-Bond #1104 (not too much).
Most folks never do it, you'll be shocked at the muck that comes out.
.Drain the oil, remove the clutch cover, remove the screen and wash it out in Varsol.
There's no gasket, so clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and reseal with 3-Bond #1104 (not too much).
Most folks never do it, you'll be shocked at the muck that comes out.
mistersouthpaw
Well-known member
Cbrguy I’m confused you have to give it throttle to start it but then you also said it starts and idles fine
Edit: after rereading all his posts I believe Brian’s answer is the solution. It seems his issues come on as the bike warms up and he mentions issues starting in the first post
Edit: after rereading all his posts I believe Brian’s answer is the solution. It seems his issues come on as the bike warms up and he mentions issues starting in the first post
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Valves heat up when the engine is running, and more so when the engine is running under load. Hot metal expands ... the valve stems grow a little bit longer ... tightening the clearance and causing loss of compression.
I strongly suspect that Honda built these engines with camshaft profiles having intentional long lead-in ramps to deliberately make them lose compression and become hard to start and keep running if the valve clearances are too tight, without leading to catastrophic failure (burned valves).
mistersouthpaw
Well-known member
Yeah, I was just confused because in his initial post he mentioned having to blip the throttle to start it but later he said no issues starting or idling. The issues coming on as the bike warms up makes a very strong case
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