Any SV650 experts?

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invictus43

Well-known member
So what's the fast way around the track with an SV650 as far as suspension/tires goes? Not interested in engine work..just brakes, suspension and tires. Bang for buck is somewhat relevant as well. I'm not interested in racing, just want good, consistent suspension for track days. Cheers!
 
There are many options with suspension for the SV650 depending on your budget...As far as the front goes you can change your fork springs and oil, get a set of racetech emulators or go all out and swap for a gsxr front end..The brakes on the SV aren't all that bad but swapping front ends you obviously get the bonus of the gsxr brakes...

For the rear there are a number of OEM rear shocks that are a direct swap (certain years GSXR1000 and ZX10 to name a couple)..Again if money isn't an object an Ohlins or Penske would be optimal...

For tires that is really all personal preference but stick with the factory size 160 rear...If you try and put a 170 on the stock rim it will pinch and have less of a contact patch..If you realllly want a 180 rear you can swap to a wider wheel but the benefit is strictly cosmetic...The 160 will turn in faster than the 180...

Check out svrider.com if there are any other questions...Tons of helpful info there..
 
Hi , I have what I feel is a pretty good and decent setup on an sv /04. I am no expert.

If your near Oakville and want to drop by your welcome to come over and I could explain what was done.

This bike handles so well and except for straights on a long track, can pretty much keep up with and surpass even the litre bikes, it all really comes down to your ability.

Below are pretty much what was done bearing in mind that my engine is stock.

Stock front forks with race tech springs, emulators, 20 weight oil.
Stock calipers with race pads,braided lines.
Vortex clip ons / aluminum race fairing stay
Quick throttle, 1/8 turn
TWF clutch cable
Quick release gas cap
Vortex rear sets
Aluminum rear subframe
TRE, timing retard modification
Elka rear shock ( you can get by with a Gsxr sock)
15 front / 45 rear sprocket.....stock is 44 rear.
Pirelli supercorsa slicks
Armoir bodies bodywork

I have almost as much expensed in aftermarket parts as in the cost of the bike ($3000.) it can add up quick but I did not do it all at once, I spread it out over 2 seasons.

Let me know if you want to see it.
 
Thanks guys. Dino, what sort of times do you run on that bike? Whatever track.. I'd have to get it resprung for sure (I'm 190lbs..). I'm thinking Elka, Penske or Ohlins rear. The forks are the tricky part. I don't really want to put a GSXR front-end on it if the emulators work well enough. Again, I'm mostly looking for balance and consistency. Sticking with the 120/160 tires seems reasonable..appearance means nothing to me.
 
invictus43 said:
Thanks guys. Dino, what sort of times do you run on that bike? Whatever track.. I'd have to get it resprung for sure (I'm 190lbs..). I'm thinking Elka, Penske or Ohlins rear. The forks are the tricky part. I don't really want to put a GSXR front-end on it if the emulators work well enough. Again, I'm mostly looking for balance and consistency. Sticking with the 120/160 tires seems reasonable..appearance means nothing to me.
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Cant remember exact numbers, but pretty quick at times. I would not spend the money on inverted forks,just re-spring for your weight and emulators set at 4 complete turns and heavy oil. You may want to drop the front, raise the forks between 10 -15 mm for quicker turn in or raise rear.

No need for wider tires, what for, less is actually more, quicker turn in, spend your cash on good tires, warmers and track time.

I also have a full Hindle exhaust, if you have the same and decide to go with an Elka shock, either get the remote reservoir or if piggyback style, tell them you have a full Hindle, there is a clearance issue.

Tons, I mean tons of fun on that bike and probably costs less to run than some of the 600's, oh and did I mention the smile on your face as you run past the big bikes
especially corner entry and exit!
 
Im not an expert, but have done my due dilligence on setting up an SV.

My setup is very simliar to what Dino has, minus the bodywork, aluminum stay and other race goodies. The M4 full exhaust is the system of choice for these engines, but I got my dale walker for free. I use the pirelli dragon supercorsa's on mine, I am happy with them but may try slicks when I exhaust the current tire supply.

In addition to the purchase of the bike, I have about $1k into the bike.

With me on it times are in the 2:05 - 2:08 range at shanny long track. I believe that would be backmarker pace in any sort of competitive series, but I hold my own during track days.

It is a fun platform to ride - in order to pass the lighter more powerful SS bikes you have to carry a lot of corner speed around the circuit.

I suppose one thing to be aware of is that these engines will break crankshaft nose if they see extended high rpm use. If your just out for track days, short shift to save the engine. I typically upshift around 9000 rpm.
 
For budget suspension upgrades.....03/04 636 front end will fit right in there with a bearing that be be sourced from a guy in the states.

for rear suspension, any aftermarket double clicker to triple clicker rear shock would help tons...or a zx10 rear shock swap for around $50. You can do a front end swap + rear shock swap all for under $500 in parts.

need help? Post up here, we can guide you through
 
frekeyguy said:
need help? Post up here, we can guide you through
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Nah, the work is no problem. I was more curious how the suspension swaps worked for others. Half the battle is getting the correct spring rate..so I'm curious how a ZX10 shock would work given the different suspensions and weights of the two bikes. What spring works? Same with the forks..
 
invictus43 said:
Nah, the work is no problem. I was more curious how the suspension swaps worked for others. Half the battle is getting the correct spring rate..so I'm curious how a ZX10 shock would work given the different suspensions and weights of the two bikes. What spring works? Same with the forks..
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what's your budget?
 
invictus43 said:
No budget per se..it's more about at what point do you just get a better bike. I'm thinking $2k would probably be that point.
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More expericed track bike builders should chime in here.

$2k is high budget....for a SV build.

Ohlins Öhlins Road & Track Suspension Shock Absorber Type S46PR1C1 $1000 rear shock - NEW - USED + REBUILD WITH A SPRING for your weight would be less than $1000.

GSXR front end swap - $1000 with brakes with wheel and axle / spacers / clip on's etc....Ohlins springs are $150 depending on what spring rate you need it at.....

Brembo RCS or big bore master...19x20 or 16x19 - which ever you prefer...NEW $250 - $375 ....used $200

Braided lines - $150 for front + rear


So if you buy Smart + build smart....you can get a front end swap + rear shock ...with all OHLINS with the exact spring rate you need with amazing brakes for under 2K

I would buy used OHLINS, put it all in , take it to someone who can setup your suspension, then swap spring to get the right rate for your riding style/weight.

PS: I am going to build a SV for a buddy, should be a amazing street bike and a track weapon, budget is $500 for suspension upgrade....we will be piecing togather components from gsxr's / zx6'r / zx10's / ducati's etc...running custom length lines etc...

DONE!
 
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Just stay off the breaks ;)

I raced with an Ohlins rear and RaceTech emulators (and custom shim stack), loved it. But the entire bike flexes under large stress, just accept it and learn to love it.
 
frekeyguy said:
More expericed track bike builders should chime in here.

$2k is high budget....for a SV build.

Ohlins Öhlins Road & Track Suspension Shock Absorber Type S46PR1C1 $1000 rear shock - NEW - USED + REBUILD WITH A SPRING for your weight would be less than $1000.

GSXR front end swap - $1000 with brakes with wheel and axle / spacers / clip on's etc....Ohlins springs are $150 depending on what spring rate you need it at.....

Brembo RCS or big bore master...19x20 or 16x19 - which ever you prefer...NEW $250 - $375 ....used $200

Braided lines - $150 for front + rear


So if you buy Smart + build smart....you can get a front end swap + rear shock ...with all OHLINS with the exact spring rate you need with amazing brakes for under 2K

I would buy used OHLINS, put it all in , take it to someone who can setup your suspension, then swap spring to get the right rate for your riding style/weight.

PS: I am going to build a SV for a buddy, should be a amazing street bike and a track weapon, budget is $500 for suspension upgrade....we will be piecing togather components from gsxr's / zx6'r / zx10's / ducati's etc...running custom length lines etc...

DONE!
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Braided rear lines? gsxr front end on a less stiff SV chassis. I can think of a better way to spend that money.
 
eastcoast_gsx said:
Just stay off the breaks ;)

I raced with an Ohlins rear and RaceTech emulators (and custom shim stack), loved it. But the entire bike flexes under large stress, just accept it and learn to love it.
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Bingo. I wouldn't bother with the front end swaps, and don't even waste your time trying to swap a STOCK shock from another bike (street maybe, but for the track it's a complete waste of time and money). Find a used (or new if you have the dough) Ohlins, Penske, or Elka. for the rear and have it rebuilt/refreshed with a proper spring for your weight. For the front, have it resprung for your weight and make sure the bushings and seals are in good shape (might as well replace them while your in there), drop in some cartrige emulators if you feel so inclined, it won't be a waste of money. After you get the suspension set up proper for you, then just get seat time. There is no replacement for seat time.

Sv's are an amazingly capable bike and a great learning tool. You can do a ton of modifications to them to make them more capable on the track, but after basic suspension upgrades, money is better spent on tires, gas, and tracktime. And as Jody said, stay off the brakes, they only slow you down.
 
RockerGuy said:
I heard dropping weight can shorten your time :rolleyes:
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Haha! No ****! :-) I tell myself that every lap I'm climbing the hill at Kelso on my mountain bike...hurts way more than at the track..
 
Dan Dubeau said:
Bingo. I wouldn't bother with the front end swaps, and don't even waste your time trying to swap a STOCK shock from another bike (street maybe, but for the track it's a complete waste of time and money). Find a used (or new if you have the dough) Ohlins, Penske, or Elka. for the rear and have it rebuilt/refreshed with a proper spring for your weight. For the front, have it resprung for your weight and make sure the bushings and seals are in good shape (might as well replace them while your in there), drop in some cartrige emulators if you feel so inclined, it won't be a waste of money. After you get the suspension set up proper for you, then just get seat time. There is no replacement for seat time.

Sv's are an amazingly capable bike and a great learning tool. You can do a ton of modifications to them to make them more capable on the track, but after basic suspension upgrades, money is better spent on tires, gas, and tracktime. And as Jody said, stay off the brakes, they only slow you down.
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Yeah, I'm not trying to win any races or set lap records. I just enjoy my track days and want the bike to be capable of being pushed to some degree without getting all mushy and wallowy. I just want the suspension to be consistent over a session and be able to set it up to my liking (stock suspension has very limited adjustment obviously..). I'm leery of using a different bike's suspension components because of differences in linkage rates and things like that. I'll likely go Ohlins or Elka for the rear with Race-tech for the front. Like you say, I"ll spend the rest on tires and just going out and having fun. :-)
 
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