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Amsoil Preferred Customer-Question

Trials

Well-known member
:) I love my Diesel engines, have several of them, father-in-law was a brilliant diesel engine mechanic.

Diesel contains more energy potential then gasoline (Diesel has more calories) it's the workhorse of liquid fuels. Compression ration is way higher in a diesel engine (~20:1 compression ratio) where the fuel/air mix is ignited solely by pressure and not a spark plug. To achieve the very high compression ratio required to ignite the diesel fuel mix you need a longer stroke to achieve the higher pressure, long stroke engines inherently have bigger heavier crank throws and all that results in crazy high torque specs relative to a gasoline engine. Diesel is more dense and burns slower then light fuels, so a long stroke is ideally suited to getting the most energy possible out of the fuel.
 
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DJM

Well-known member
Site Supporter
My local CT and Part Source don't carry T6 in the grade that I want. I will check out other CTs. Did you mean to suggest Mobil motorcycle specific oil, or a generic Mobil 10w40?
Sorry, I should have been more specific, Mobil Racing 4T for motorcycles. Definitely don't use automotive oil, unless you want a slipping clutch.
 

J_F

gringo diablo
Site Supporter
now we're talking

diesel engines have also been referred to as constant pressure
ie: injection can continue after TDC
as direct injection is the the only way to get it in the cylinder
because as you said,
compression ratios are so high the fuel cannot be there on compression stroke
it would pre-ignite and detonate stuff, badly

petrol engines have a huge drop off of cylinder pressure after ignition
as the pistons descends on pressure stroke
maximum mechanical advantage is when the rod is @ 90 degrees to the crank
but this point cylinder pressure has dripped way off

diesels can continue to inject fuel and make torque from that mechanical advantage
this be why they don't lug down, they pull like a MF
and also why they don't like high RPM's

thread here recently that mentioned Audi Fox
I had one that was a massive POS
but was the only petrol car I've owned that had direct injection
 
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PrivatePilot

Ironus Butticus
Site Supporter
Another RotellaT user here, the regular Dino 15W40. Both bikes love the stuff...and way cheaper than the alternatives.

Don't get me wrong, Amsoil is good oil - I used their injection oil exclusively on my Jetskis when I owned them, but for the MC's, Rotella all the way.
 

wolfpack27616

Well-known member
now we're talking
diesel engines have also been referred to as constant pressure
ie: injection can continue after TDC
as direct injection is the the only way to get it in the cylinder
because as you said,
compression ratios are so high the fuel cannot be there on compression stroke
it would pre-ignite and detonate stuff, badly
I started this thread to see if I could find some Amsoil for cheap, but all the discussion here is way better than finding oil for cheap. Lots of good info shared. Thanks to you and everyone else!

Another RotellaT user here, the regular Dino 15W40. Both bikes love the stuff...and way cheaper than the alternatives.

Don't get me wrong, Amsoil is good oil - I used their injection oil exclusively on my Jetskis when I owned them, but for the MC's, Rotella all the way.
I can see lots of people like you endorsing Rotella. I think i saw in a Vulcan forum about how Rotella has recalibrated their formula and might not be a good choice for motorcycles anymore. Is that just some baseless speculation?

$77 rebate came in the mail today from Shell. Coupled with the 15% off sale Canadian tire had, was a great deal!
$77 rebate? How much oil did you order!!
 

Trials

Well-known member
If the product has changed you will also see a change in the oils API spec, their website for 15w40 currently indicates:

API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CF, SM, SL, SJ, SH; ACEA E9, E7; JASO DH-2, MA; Caterpillar ECF-1A, ECF-2, ECF-3; Cummins CES 20081; DDC 93K218; Deutz DQC III-05; MACK EO-O Premium Plus; Ford WSS-M2C171-E; MAN 3275; MB Approval 228.31; MTU Category 2; Renault Trucks RLD-3; Volvo VDS-4

Safest practice is to check the packaging on whatever you are purchasing, if your manufactures oil specification is present on the list, you are good to go, if not then keep shopping.
 

ReSTored

Well-known member
I've been using Rotella T dino 15w - 40 for 16 years. Buy by the pail and change twice a season. Doing about 8 - 10 k km a year. Can't beat the price.

Unless your owners manual stipulates synthetic I'd just use dino. IMHO I'd not worry about a rating of 10w vs. 15w as you're probably never starting your bike up at -20F and the difference at 3 - 5C is negligible.
 

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