Aching Shoulders

I'm not against taking meds, but only in a limited capacity. I wouldn't want to rely on them,

Taking meds on longer riding days isn't really a reliance thing. If most rides under a few hours you're OK, and it's just the longer stuff that's bothersome, just med up. It's not like taking acetaminophen and ibuprofen will lead to any sort of dependency, neither are habit forming, and if you mind your dosages, it's safe. I limit myself to 3000mg/24 of acetaminophen (about 75% of max 24 hour dose) and try to stay at about 50% of the max ibuprofen dose (given it's harder on your stomach) and it helps immensely on high pain days.

For day to day issues I don't do anything stronger than OTC, Vimovo aside which is basically just 2 OTC drugs mixed together into a prescription form.

Costco sells a Kirkland brand Robaxacet knockoff which is basically 500mg of Acetaminophen and methocarbamol which is a muscle relaxant. They work amazing for aches and pains and kinks, they're a fraction of the cost of actual Robaxacet, and (for me and most people I know that use them) they don't make you tired or anything, so they're safe to take when you're riding. Just look for the 2 pack green bottles in the pharmacy section.

If some simple OTC meds make you comfortable, KISS - take the meds. ;)
 
Thanks Shane, I do have stock bars.

Would you know which model bars of ProTaper? Or have a photo. Just trying to visualize how they move riding position.
I take it no risers with these bars?

I think between you and Tom, we are kinda all the same height, I should be able to figure this out.
Yeah no risers and no cable adjustments needed. I really liked how much better the bike handled with them. I'm always thinking about doing the same thing to my current bike too.

Here's a pic of my bike the day I bought it:
0407021417a.jpg



And here's the same bike a 6 months later with the Pro Taper bars:
DSCN9319.jpg



I think the bars I got were these ones, but that was back in 2012: Pro Taper SE 7/8 Handle Bar ATV High Black TRX 450R KFX450R LTR450
 
A while back I worked with a gal that was a professional Ergonomist, her practice was looking at the way workers interact with equipment with the goals of reducing potential injury, easing workloads, and increasing worker comfort. I know large companies (like banks) employ Ergonomists to design workspace seating and controls placement (computers, punckpresses, assembly workstations) for employees with special needs and those recovering from injuries.

I wonder if there are any Ergonomists that do motorcycle ergos for special needs riders?
 
Personally I think the bar position is your issue. I started having the exact same shoulder discomfort on my KTM SMT which is supposed to be my most ergo-friendly bike. But I noticed I was reaching for the bars which stretched my arms and thus shoulders. I rotated them towards me as much as I could to decrease the reach and it helped a lot, but not perfect, so I find myself leaning forward to reduce the reach. I'll have to see what a new seat does to the rider triangle, but if that doesn't fix it, then it will be new bars.. I have no such issue on my SXV, where the seating position puts the bars much closer.
 
Update:

I decided higher risers were the way to go. So I bought these 2" pivoting risers. I went with this because it was 1 piece, and was hoping the pivot point didn't block clamping down the bolts, but it does, so it's a bit trick to clamp this down and pivot it into the correct space.

Riser
475_1.jpg

Installed:
02 bar risers IMG_7295.jpg

Anyhow I went for a longer ride up to Haliburton / Dorset last week and the change was really noticeable. I was further back into the seat, and the bars were closer, and didn't feel I had to reach over. It was also easier to use the controls, I must have really been reaching or rolling my hands more then I thought. My left shoulder was perfect the entire time, right was a bit stiff later on, but neither was anywhere near the discomfort as before.

I could almost go for a 3" risers, but at least this is a good start.
 
Update:

I decided higher risers were the way to go. So I bought these 2" pivoting risers. I went with this because it was 1 piece, and was hoping the pivot point didn't block clamping down the bolts, but it does, so it's a bit trick to clamp this down and pivot it into the correct space.

Riser
View attachment 74698

Installed:
View attachment 74699

Anyhow I went for a longer ride up to Haliburton / Dorset last week and the change was really noticeable. I was further back into the seat, and the bars were closer, and didn't feel I had to reach over. It was also easier to use the controls, I must have really been reaching or rolling my hands more then I thought. My left shoulder was perfect the entire time, right was a bit stiff later on, but neither was anywhere near the discomfort as before.

I could almost go for a 3" risers, but at least this is a good start.
Why is the hardest to access bolt so high? Are you sure you got it tight? Design fail when you can't set the angle you want and tighten the bolt. Yes, there are ways to sort of make it work (like tightening the bolts that will get masked first and then tightening the accessible side once you have angle set) but I'd prefer if the product made it easy and safe to use for its intended purpose.
 
Why is the hardest to access bolt so high? Are you sure you got it tight? Design fail when you can't set the angle you want and tighten the bolt. Yes, there are ways to sort of make it work (like tightening the bolts that will get masked first and then tightening the accessible side once you have angle set) but I'd prefer if the product made it easy and safe to use for its intended purpose.
Agree, when looking at the rok risers it had the same problem, and it was 2 separate pieces.

It's the lower bolts, the 2 below the raise, once you pivot the risers there is no space to get a tool in there. I had to tighten the blocked bolts first, leave the other 2 loose, then pivot it by tapping it with a rubber hammer, then tighten the remaining bolts. Only way I could do it. Seems tight 😬

Maybe if I move up to the 3" version it may not have this problem.
 
Agree, when looking at the rok risers it had the same problem, and it was 2 separate pieces.

It's the lower bolts, the 2 below the raise, once you pivot the risers there is no space to get a tool in there. I had to tighten the blocked bolts first, leave the other 2 loose, then pivot it by tapping it with a rubber hammer, then tighten the remaining bolts. Only way I could do it. Seems tight 😬

Maybe if I move up to the 3" version it may not have this problem.
If you go to the 3" will you have enough slack on the brake, clutch lines? When I went to the 2" on mine, the choke cable is very tight now, but doable, I had to re-route the clutch hydraulic line, but had custom made front brake lines that were longer for this purpose.
Not sure if you have choke on yours.
 
If you go to the 3" will you have enough slack on the brake, clutch lines? When I went to the 2" on mine, the choke cable is very tight now, but doable, I had to re-route the clutch hydraulic line, but had custom made front brake lines that were longer for this purpose.
Not sure if you have choke on yours.
Good point, so far it seems good, but it might be stretching it going to 3". No choke. I know from searching online newer models (mine is a 23) have longer lines then previous.
 
Agree, when looking at the rok risers it had the same problem, and it was 2 separate pieces.

It's the lower bolts, the 2 below the raise, once you pivot the risers there is no space to get a tool in there. I had to tighten the blocked bolts first, leave the other 2 loose, then pivot it by tapping it with a rubber hammer, then tighten the remaining bolts. Only way I could do it. Seems tight 😬

Maybe if I move up to the 3" version it may not have this problem.
Since you`re pretty much half way there, why not just try the mini-apes off the `25 Harley Street Bob? :p They actually look kinda` comfy.
 
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