Had a similar issue.I dremeled two tiny notches just inside of the outer race (material was a lot softer) and used a long skinny punch after heating the hub.
What did you do in your garage today..?
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
The easiest way to remove a seated bearing is to with a socket and hammer. Put as large a socket as will fit into the backside opening, a few good whacks and both bearings should start to move.
The important thing is to start there - that way the spanner and other bearing help keep things together, less chance of blowing up the seated bearing.
Why can’t you get it from the back? I get the seat lip is bigger - why not hit the inner raceway? or if that’s gone and balls are out, a punch inserted from the back should catch the outer edge of the ball race.
Anything straight inserted from the other side will miss the outer race completely because of the smaller ID of the lip inboard of the bearing.
Anyhow, it's out. One of the other local retired folk was a tool and die maker and still has some machine shop equipment. He made a special tool with a recess to clear that lip. That, plus heating the area with a torch, plus a lot of beating on it with a hammer, got it out. There was a fair bit of crapola jammed between the outer race and the housing, probably corrosion and powdered metal from the self-destructing bearing. It's all cleaned up and the new bearings are doing time in the freezer.
Anyhow, it's out. One of the other local retired folk was a tool and die maker and still has some machine shop equipment. He made a special tool with a recess to clear that lip. That, plus heating the area with a torch, plus a lot of beating on it with a hammer, got it out. There was a fair bit of crapola jammed between the outer race and the housing, probably corrosion and powdered metal from the self-destructing bearing. It's all cleaned up and the new bearings are doing time in the freezer.
Evotech block off plates came in, so I pulled the pillion pegs.
Stuck on the tank grips. Things were a little slippy on throttle.
Finally got around to downloading the stock ECU so I can do the stage 1 BT Moto tune.
Stuck on the tank grips. Things were a little slippy on throttle.
Finally got around to downloading the stock ECU so I can do the stage 1 BT Moto tune.
Back together but with a list. New wheel bearings spent overnight in the freezer, and went in no problem. I didn't change the sprocket carrier bearing because I need better circlip pliers to get that apart, but that bearing feels fine, so this can wait until the next tire change (which is in the foreseeable future anyhow). Front wheel bearings will be done at the next tire change.
I need to replace the outer redundant seals - the ones that the outer wheel spacers ride on. They're so worn that they're no longer sealing at all, and annoyingly, they no longer hold the wheel spacers in place when installing the rear wheel. I suspect the lack of outer seals has let water sit between those seals and the bearing, and the integral seals in the bearing eventually wore out and let some water into the bearing.
The bearing that failed was the one on the right side. The other one, which has the sprocket carrier outside of it, felt gritty, so it wasn't far behind.
I need to replace the outer redundant seals - the ones that the outer wheel spacers ride on. They're so worn that they're no longer sealing at all, and annoyingly, they no longer hold the wheel spacers in place when installing the rear wheel. I suspect the lack of outer seals has let water sit between those seals and the bearing, and the integral seals in the bearing eventually wore out and let some water into the bearing.
The bearing that failed was the one on the right side. The other one, which has the sprocket carrier outside of it, felt gritty, so it wasn't far behind.
