Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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Hardwrkr13 said:
All led’s. Didn’t matter if they’re at the top of dimming switch they’ll still do it. If one set is in they’re fine until you turn in a second set.
Running something in socket doesn’t affect them.
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That's weird. My guess is interference. Electrical gremlins are often loose neutral but that doesn't fit well for your symptoms.

Are we talking a little flicker like a candle or full on flashing on and off?
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Lighting question: pot lights that flicker when lights are turned on in another room. All are on dimmer switches (kasaa smart switch in one room, decora 3-way dimmer switches on two other rooms.
What’s the fix that retains dimming ability?
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Smart dimmers have power supplies that create inrush current when loads change. They are very sensitive to voltage dips and often send electrical noise back onto the circuit.

When another dimmer turns on the Inrush current + noise causes the other dimmer’s electronics to misfire, LED pot lights flicker.

This happens most often if the circuits share the same neutral (white) and there is resistance in a neutral connection.

Things to do:

Verify your Decora dimmers are made for leds, and if so they are in led mode, not incandescent. All smart ones are led compatible so your Kasa units will be ok.

Change out the decors dimmers if they are analog. Smart dimmers don’t play nice with analog dimmers on the same circuit.

Verify your travellers are wired correctly (neutral cannot be switched) AND that only one of the switches in each light circuit is a dimmer (common diy mistake is using 2 dimmers in a 3 way). The other must be a standard three way switch (or a companion type dimmer). You can’t run two dimmers together on the same circuit.

Still flickering?

Likely a neutral connection problem at one of the switch or daisy chain connections. Tighten wire nuts on whites, replace any loose backstab connections with pigtails.
 
GreyGhost said:
That's weird. My guess is interference. Electrical gremlins are often loose neutral but that doesn't fit well for your symptoms.

Are we talking a little flicker like a candle or full on flashing on and off?
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Mad Mike said:
Smart dimmers have power supplies that create inrush current when loads change. They are very sensitive to voltage dips and often send electrical noise back onto the circuit.

When another dimmer turns on the Inrush current + noise causes the other dimmer’s electronics to misfire, LED pot lights flicker.

This happens most often if the circuits share the same neutral (white) and there is resistance in a neutral connection.

Things to do:

Verify your Decora dimmers are made for leds, and if so they are in led mode, not incandescent. All smart ones are led compatible so your Kasa units will be ok.

Change out the decors dimmers if they are analog. Smart dimmers don’t play nice with analog dimmers on the same circuit.

Verify your travellers are wired correctly (neutral cannot be switched) AND that only one of the switches in each light circuit is a dimmer (common diy mistake is using 2 dimmers in a 3 way). The other must be a standard three way switch (or a companion type dimmer). You can’t run two dimmers together on the same circuit.

Still flickering?

Likely a neutral connection problem at one of the switch or daisy chain connections. Tighten wire nuts on whites, replace any loose backstab connections with pigtails.
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A few more details might help: basement (smart switch dimmer), main room (2-way dimmer, decora), kitchen (3-way decora, dimmer on only one end). All led pot lights.
Main and kitchen can both be on and will only flicker if near bottom of dimmer (really a non-issue as they’re rarely that dim anyways).
If either main and/or kitchen are on they will flicker if basement are turned on as well.
If only one of the three rooms is turned on they do not flicker.
 
Ok, that’s telling me the wiring is probably done right, but there is a setup issue with the decors if a neutral residtance issue (white wires) .

1) find the trimpots on the decor as and set them do there is no flicker when lights are low.
2) eliminate backstab connections on all the white wires of your decors switches, make sure there aren’t 2 whites shoved into the Kasas and the connections in the kasas are tight. Tighten all ganged whites in switches, receptacles and fixture JBs on the circuit.

If that doesn’t work, you may need a load stabilizer in the kitchen (the explanation is complicated). Instead, you can just change everything to Kasa and as long as your neutrals are good, the flicker should stop.

.
 
Mad Mike said:
Ok, that’s telling me the wiring is probably done right, but there is a setup issue with the decors if a neutral residtance issue (white wires) .

1) find the trimpots on the decor as and set them do there is no flicker when lights are low.
2) eliminate backstab connections on all the white wires of your decors switches, make sure there aren’t 2 whites shoved into the Kasas and the connections in the kasas are tight. Tighten all ganged whites in switches, receptacles and fixture JBs on the circuit.

If that doesn’t work, you may need a load stabilizer in the kitchen (the explanation is complicated). Instead, you can just change everything to Kasa and as long as your neutrals are good, the flicker should stop.

.
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Wiring checked and good and all set to LED. If I changed them all to Kasa would I have to change both ends of the 3-way wired room or just one end (or is it a try one end and see what happens)?
Edit; 2-packs of the 3-way Kasa Dimmer switches were on on sale so I ordered enough to replace all. Maybe I'll get lucky and just need 2 switches.
 
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Mad Mike said:
Ok, that’s telling me the wiring is probably done right, but there is a setup issue with the decors if a neutral residtance issue (white wires) .

1) find the trimpots on the decor as and set them do there is no flicker when lights are low.
2) eliminate backstab connections on all the white wires of your decors switches, make sure there aren’t 2 whites shoved into the Kasas and the connections in the kasas are tight. Tighten all ganged whites in switches, receptacles and fixture JBs on the circuit.

If that doesn’t work, you may need a load stabilizer in the kitchen (the explanation is complicated). Instead, you can just change everything to Kasa and as long as your neutrals are good, the flicker should stop.

.
Click to expand...
Switching them to all Kasa fixed it. Was stumped for a day when putting them in as I was just going to put a Kasa on one end with the regular non-dimming analog switch on the other end but the Kasa would only stay in trouble mode. Day two I put the Kasa on the other end as well and everything worked dandy.
 
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
How to get what looks like mold/mildew out of quartz (shower ledge). Tried baking soda paste as well as isopropyl alcohol with no luck. Any luck with this:
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I've used this before:

Seen the product you listed doing the rounds on FB, haven't tried it. But anything that bleeches the mold usually just hides it and doesn't remove it.
 
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
No luck with that or with a Magic Eraser.
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My wife uses VIM to clean our granite as well.

Sitting with my buddy in granite and he said mold / mildew shouldn’t be growing on quartz at all.

Is it on the silicone in between pieces? If so then cut it out and redo.

Post pics that could help. Send to my phone as I’m sitting with my buddy now.
 
This is a problem in a lot of older houses we rehab.

Our go to is Clorox Mold/Mildew. It’s awesome on plastic, painted wood, tile & grout.

Nothing gets mold out of caulking - you gotta dig that **** out, treat the area then recalk. If it’s in the quartz, you may need to soak the affected area. Use the Clorox stuff, or regular peroxide. Saturate a sponge, leave it on the bad area covered with plastic wrap for an hour.

Don’t use heavy solvents, CLR, acids or bleaches on quartz as those chemicals don’t play well with resin based countertops (quartz, Sistine, cultured marble. Soaps, detergents, alcohol, and cleaners made for stone are safe.
 
So CO2 sensors have a end of life? Mine of course went off after using the shower, so the hot water tank was running, I was thinking I had a leak. Nope just weird timing. Now the unit is junk, I had a second one I just plugged that is and we are good again.
 
Carbon detectors , smoke alarms ect all have a best before date . If your alarms are out of date you may have trouble with an insurance claim so I’m told .
If your Carbon alarm fails and your dead , insurance is no longer your problem


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
sburns said:
So CO2 sensors have a end of life? Mine of course went off after using the shower, so the hot water tank was running, I was thinking I had a leak. Nope just weird timing. Now the unit is junk, I had a second one I just plugged that is and we are good again.
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No house is running C02 sensors. CO sensors need replaced every seven years. There is some disagreement as to whether that is from manufacture or install but it wouldn't be a hard fail, just sensitivity dropping so seven after install seems reasonable to me.
 
GreyGhost said:
No house is running C02 sensors. CO sensors need replaced every seven years. There is some disagreement as to whether that is from manufacture or install but it wouldn't be a hard fail, just sensitivity dropping so seven after install seems reasonable to me.
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Opps yeah meant CO, thanks!
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