I have no clue what you’re saying….tree killer? What frozen ground?You waited until the ground froze before reducing the height of the tree killer? I'm surprised the tree is happy with the root flare that deep.
I have no clue what you’re saying….tree killer? What frozen ground?You waited until the ground froze before reducing the height of the tree killer? I'm surprised the tree is happy with the root flare that deep.
Obviously you're warmer down there. We have had snow cover for a week.I have no clue what you’re saying….tree killer? What frozen ground?
Not an expert but a gentle flare, reducing the amount of trunk covered could help. Hopefully Shane's horticultural advice will provide the best solution.Obviously you're warmer down there. We have had snow cover for a week.
If the root flare on a tree is buried, the tree is normally very unhappy. @shanekingsley is far more in tune, I just know the basics.
My furnace is the same. While I appreciate the furnace providing codes, the lazy product design that makes them as hard as possible to read is sad.Does building a periscope count?
Our Lennox furnace flashes a code number if anything is amiss, usually a filter. The trouble is I have to look through a lens to read the code and the lens is a foot off the floor.
Laying on a cold dirty shop floor in my pajamas isn’t my idea of fun.
So a pair of 4” X 4” mirrors mounted on a stick at 45 degrees lets me do the job by only crouching.
Hey it turns out the people who made your furnace also made the fridge in my campervan. All the controls are at the bottom and you have to lie down to light it. Better yet to see the incredibly feable pilot light you also need to do all this with a hoodie over your head to block out light.Does building a periscope count?
Our Lennox furnace flashes a code number if anything is amiss, usually a filter. The trouble is I have to look through a lens to read the code and the lens is a foot off the floor.
Laying on a cold dirty shop floor in my pajamas isn’t my idea of fun.
So a pair of 4” X 4” mirrors mounted on a stick at 45 degrees lets me do the job by only crouching.
Was it leaking from the relief valve? Was the 'flooded tank' completely water filled when you removed it?My new water heater was leaking. Reliance determined my expansion tank was flooded. 469$ to replace it.
Yesterday I installed a new one in about 30 minutes start to finish. New tank was 56$
Yes the tank was full of water.Was it leaking from the relief valve? Was the 'flooded tank' completely water filled when you removed it?
I don't ever trust Reliance plumbing or heating sub contractors - I've seen many of them use predatory tactics and outright lies to sell products and services.
My new water heater was leaking. Reliance determined my expansion tank was flooded. 469$ to replace it.
Yesterday I installed a new one in about 30 minutes start to finish. New tank was 56$
Next question, is your house behind a city backflow preventer? If so the expansion tank is an appendix - not required and not the cause of a HWT leak.Yes the tank was full of water.
My municipality installed check valves and expansion tanks a few years ago when they replaced water meters. I'm not sure what they pressure is supposed to be but I have measured up to 95 psi. I have a pressure regulator to install when I reconfigure the system (pressure regulator, filters, water softener, etc).Next question, is your house behind a city backflow preventer? If so the expansion tank is an appendix - not required and not the cause of a HWT leak.
I see expansion tanks installed in lots of homes where they aren't needed - almost all houses in Ontario are open systems, the municipal supply is your expansion.
Expansion tanks are only needed on closed systems like boilers, commercial and multi unit residential buildings or if your municipal feed is over 80 psi. Sometimes plumbers will solve water hammer problems caused by unsecured pipes using an expansion tank.
The reason I mention this is if you are on an open system with less than 80psi, your water tank should never leak - if it does, the expansion tank is masking a problem.
Then you have both a closed and high pressure system - you need an expansion tank or you'll blow up your plumbing.My municipality installed check valves and expansion tanks a few years ago when they replaced water meters. I'm not sure what they pressure is supposed to be but I have measured up to 95 psi. I have a pressure regulator to install when I reconfigure the system (pressure regulator, filters, water softener, etc).
Google says I need a Backflow preventer in St Marys. I'm not actually sure if I do have one.Next question, is your house behind a city backflow preventer? If so the expansion tank is an appendix - not required and not the cause of a HWT leak.
I see expansion tanks installed in lots of homes where they aren't needed - almost all houses in Ontario are open systems, the municipal supply is your expansion.
Expansion tanks are only needed on closed systems like boilers, commercial and multi unit residential buildings or if your municipal feed is over 80 psi. Sometimes plumbers will solve water hammer problems caused by unsecured pipes using an expansion tank.
The reason I mention this is if you are on an open system with less than 80psi, your water tank should never leak - if it does, the expansion tank is masking a problem.
In Canada, look for a check valve near your water meter. In many places in the US, they have a far more complicated double check valve with test ports and it's often located outside.Google says I need a Backflow preventer in St Marys. I'm not actually sure if I do have one.
Ours has a slight squeek for the past few months that I'm interested to look into. It's 5yrs old front load. Don't know what's making the noise as they're pretty simple machines but I'll pull the rear off and see if I can locate it this winter when I get bored enough.Fixed my dryer today.
Crapped out a few weeks ago, had a spare dryer, used that, didn't like it as much.
Broken dryer seemed to be a bad door switch.
Found the model and parts list here:
Switch part on Amazon
Helpful video on YT:
Fixed in literally 5 min's, the hardest part was separating the connector from the switch.
Put the old dryer back in place.