Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Obviously you're warmer down there. We have had snow cover for a week.

If the root flare on a tree is buried, the tree is normally very unhappy. @shanekingsley is far more in tune, I just know the basics.
Not an expert but a gentle flare, reducing the amount of trunk covered could help. Hopefully Shane's horticultural advice will provide the best solution.

Also, what species tree is it? Some are more fickle than others.
 
Does building a periscope count?

Our Lennox furnace flashes a code number if anything is amiss, usually a filter. The trouble is I have to look through a lens to read the code and the lens is a foot off the floor.

Laying on a cold dirty shop floor in my pajamas isn’t my idea of fun.

So a pair of 4” X 4” mirrors mounted on a stick at 45 degrees lets me do the job by only crouching.
 
Does building a periscope count?

Our Lennox furnace flashes a code number if anything is amiss, usually a filter. The trouble is I have to look through a lens to read the code and the lens is a foot off the floor.

Laying on a cold dirty shop floor in my pajamas isn’t my idea of fun.

So a pair of 4” X 4” mirrors mounted on a stick at 45 degrees lets me do the job by only crouching.
My furnace is the same. While I appreciate the furnace providing codes, the lazy product design that makes them as hard as possible to read is sad.
 
Does building a periscope count?

Our Lennox furnace flashes a code number if anything is amiss, usually a filter. The trouble is I have to look through a lens to read the code and the lens is a foot off the floor.

Laying on a cold dirty shop floor in my pajamas isn’t my idea of fun.

So a pair of 4” X 4” mirrors mounted on a stick at 45 degrees lets me do the job by only crouching.
Hey it turns out the people who made your furnace also made the fridge in my campervan. All the controls are at the bottom and you have to lie down to light it. Better yet to see the incredibly feable pilot light you also need to do all this with a hoodie over your head to block out light.
 
My new water heater was leaking. Reliance determined my expansion tank was flooded. 469$ to replace it.
Yesterday I installed a new one in about 30 minutes start to finish. New tank was 56$
Was it leaking from the relief valve? Was the 'flooded tank' completely water filled when you removed it?

I don't ever trust Reliance plumbing or heating sub contractors - I've seen many of them use predatory tactics and outright lies to sell products and services.
 
Was it leaking from the relief valve? Was the 'flooded tank' completely water filled when you removed it?

I don't ever trust Reliance plumbing or heating sub contractors - I've seen many of them use predatory tactics and outright lies to sell products and services.
Yes the tank was full of water.
 
My new water heater was leaking. Reliance determined my expansion tank was flooded. 469$ to replace it.
Yesterday I installed a new one in about 30 minutes start to finish. New tank was 56$

Was it over 10 years old?
I remember when meeting with them a few years ago, they stated 10 years free parts and labour.
 
Yes the tank was full of water.
Next question, is your house behind a city backflow preventer? If so the expansion tank is an appendix - not required and not the cause of a HWT leak.

I see expansion tanks installed in lots of homes where they aren't needed - almost all houses in Ontario are open systems, the municipal supply is your expansion.

Expansion tanks are only needed on closed systems like boilers, commercial and multi unit residential buildings or if your municipal feed is over 80 psi. Sometimes plumbers will solve water hammer problems caused by unsecured pipes using an expansion tank.

The reason I mention this is if you are on an open system with less than 80psi, your water tank should never leak - if it does, the expansion tank is masking a problem.
 
Next question, is your house behind a city backflow preventer? If so the expansion tank is an appendix - not required and not the cause of a HWT leak.

I see expansion tanks installed in lots of homes where they aren't needed - almost all houses in Ontario are open systems, the municipal supply is your expansion.

Expansion tanks are only needed on closed systems like boilers, commercial and multi unit residential buildings or if your municipal feed is over 80 psi. Sometimes plumbers will solve water hammer problems caused by unsecured pipes using an expansion tank.

The reason I mention this is if you are on an open system with less than 80psi, your water tank should never leak - if it does, the expansion tank is masking a problem.
My municipality installed check valves and expansion tanks a few years ago when they replaced water meters. I'm not sure what they pressure is supposed to be but I have measured up to 95 psi. I have a pressure regulator to install when I reconfigure the system (pressure regulator, filters, water softener, etc).
 
My municipality installed check valves and expansion tanks a few years ago when they replaced water meters. I'm not sure what they pressure is supposed to be but I have measured up to 95 psi. I have a pressure regulator to install when I reconfigure the system (pressure regulator, filters, water softener, etc).
Then you have both a closed and high pressure system - you need an expansion tank or you'll blow up your plumbing.

If you're measuring 95psi you're going to blow up your plumbing, not an if. When your municipality runs above 80psi, you should have a pressure regulator. 60psi max is ideal for the longevity of your plumbing. Roughly speaking, water heaters, dishwashers, washing machines and faucets last 1/2 as long at 90 PSI compared to 60psi.
 
Next question, is your house behind a city backflow preventer? If so the expansion tank is an appendix - not required and not the cause of a HWT leak.

I see expansion tanks installed in lots of homes where they aren't needed - almost all houses in Ontario are open systems, the municipal supply is your expansion.

Expansion tanks are only needed on closed systems like boilers, commercial and multi unit residential buildings or if your municipal feed is over 80 psi. Sometimes plumbers will solve water hammer problems caused by unsecured pipes using an expansion tank.

The reason I mention this is if you are on an open system with less than 80psi, your water tank should never leak - if it does, the expansion tank is masking a problem.
Google says I need a Backflow preventer in St Marys. I'm not actually sure if I do have one.
 
Under 5k all in for a 12k BTU Fujitsu 10 year warrantied unit mini split heat pump/AC being fitted this week.

In this day and age that isn’t too bad in my book. If I’d have done it myself it would have been 3k+after consumer chinese unit purchase/ materials and electrician fee and that would have given me half the warranty with a lower tier unit as it requires professional installation for full warranty
 
Fixed my dryer today.

Crapped out a few weeks ago, had a spare dryer, used that, didn't like it as much.
Broken dryer seemed to be a bad door switch.

Found the model and parts list here:

Switch part on Amazon

Helpful video on YT:

Fixed in literally 5 min's, the hardest part was separating the connector from the switch.

Put the old dryer back in place.
Ours has a slight squeek for the past few months that I'm interested to look into. It's 5yrs old front load. Don't know what's making the noise as they're pretty simple machines but I'll pull the rear off and see if I can locate it this winter when I get bored enough.
 
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