Used car sanity check

My dad just got ripped off by an oil change upsell. - Service manager came out and showed him slight uneven wear on passenger side front tire. Recommended an alignment, vehicle has been pretty good not needing any major repairs so my dad said what the ****, go for it. He gets home and looks at the computer printout and they didn't even touch the front end. Driver side rear tire was out something so small like 0.2 Degrees. (Don't quote me on exact measurement but was pretty much negligible) He called and emailed to get money back but don't think they responded. They lost a future customer for $150.

Mikedezo44 said:

My dad just got ripped off by an oil change upsell. - Service manager came out and showed him slight uneven wear on passenger side front tire. Recommended an alignment, vehicle has been pretty good not needing any major repairs so my dad said what the ****, go for it. He gets home and looks at the computer printout and they didn't even touch the front end. Driver side rear tire was out something so small like %0.2 (Don't quote me on exact measurement but was pretty much negligible) He called and emailed to get money back but don't think they responded. They lost a future customer for $150.

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I had a dealership try that. "Your alignment is out, do you want us to fix it for $200". Show me the printout. It was out by fractions of a degree. Nope. Not approved. "We already fixed it, just pay." Nope. "Fine. You don't have to pay for it this time".

GreyGhost said:

I had a dealership try that. "Your alignment is out, do you want us to fix it for $200". Show me the printout. It was out by fractions of a degree. Nope. Not approved. "We already fixed it, just pay." Nope. "Fine. You don't have to pay for it this time".

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Took my Elantra into Ontario Hyundai last fall for a recall (ECU reflash). When I went to pick it up the service advisor said, "Your rear brake pads, rotors and calipers all need to be replaced. We can replace everything for only $1700." I was thinking WTF are you doing looking at the rear brakes during an ECU reflash???

She started pressuring me to get them replaced, saying that the car was unsafe to drive. I told her that I'd just replaced the rear pads and rotors 2 months ago and re-built and painted the calipers (they were still nice and shiny at the time). I then asked why there was no warning on the service ticket to re-torque my wheels, considering that they would have needed to take the wheels off to properly inspect the calipers. She had nothing to say about that and then tried to charge me a diagnostic fee of $175 despite the fact that I was there for a manufacturer's recall. Had to escalate to the service manager to get the charge dropped. Needless to say I'm never going anywhere near Ontario Hyundai again.

@KLR Junkie wish me luck...I'm at Milton Hyundai right now for a recall on my 2013 Elantra GT...they're usually pretty good so hopefully they won't try to pull a scam on me

KLR Junkie said:

Took my Elantra into Ontario Hyundai last fall for a recall (ECU reflash). When I went to pick it up the service advisor said, "Your rear brake pads, rotors and calipers all need to be replaced. We can replace everything for only $1700." I was thinking WTF are you doing looking at the rear brakes during an ECU reflash???

She started pressuring me to get them replaced, saying that the car was unsafe to drive. I told her that I'd just replaced the rear pads and rotors 2 months ago and re-built and painted the calipers (they were still nice and shiny at the time). I then asked why there was no warning on the service ticket to re-torque my wheels, considering that they would have needed to take the wheels off to properly inspect the calipers. She had nothing to say about that and then tried to charge me a diagnostic fee of $175 despite the fact that I was there for a manufacturer's recall. Had to escalate to the service manager to get the charge dropped. Needless to say I'm never going anywhere near Ontario Hyundai again.

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Hyundai dealers are one of the scumbiest in the industry close second to RAM

Sent from the future

Update!

Car was ready for me today. Pickup went more or less as expected, shook hands. Stalled it a whole bunch, maybe I'm a little too used to the clutch on my Toyota or maybe it wasn't running quite right. Really wish I could remember the tires they put on it, all I remember now is that they had 2023 date codes. Had like a fifth of a tank in it... whatever.

Made it about halfway home when I get a gentle chime, a CEL, and "Engine power reduced". Hrmm... After a phone call I turned around and now they're looking at it. I did bring my scanner with me - P0014 (not surprised to see it still there), P0137 and P20 something something. (I remember one being low O2 voltage and one being something about post cat performance)

I figured the odds of making it all the way home without issue were only 50/50 so not super surprised about that either

Edit: Something smelled a little off too. Could have been just a messy oil change maybe

I think the third one was P2097. Technically there was a fourth but my scanner was too old to understand it and there was some letters in the code

One more edit: The lady at the service counter (manager?) was very nice

I hope they fix it right OP…as that’s not cool if you can’t even make it home.

Buddy bought a used 2018/19 Bolt from a ford dealership. Car wouldn’t return to center after a turn and you had to physically pull it back to center.

Car was gone for 3 weeks back at the dealer, they gave him a new Mach-E as a loaner, and he got his car back a few days ago.

5k repair (Steering rack and gear) which the selling dealership covered out of pocket.

That’s service.

The car is back for repairs, very disappointing it did not even get home, red flag or unlucky??? For the codes you were getting (the first two are generic the P20xx in Cadillac (or GM) specific and unless the reader knows what vehicle it is reading and has the data base for codes over P1000 you may need to look up the code meaning as it is guessing on meaning) you can also take a look at your live fuel trim values (short and long), high values means the computer is trying to compensate for something (vacuum leaks, bad sensors, etc.). Normally I look for ±10% or closer to zero (you never get a sustained perfect zero). They can normally go above this with speed or load change so it is not hard and fast. BUT if the car is idling and one is staying well outside of these values. On my laptop reader I have graphed them with other sensors to find intermittent problems (stalling, shudder) that could not be found by the mechanic in the shop.