I would consider going up one tooth on the rear sprocket if you would like a little more punch. I went down one tooth on my front sprocket once and didn’t like it, that’s equivalent to going up about three teeth on the rear. One up on the rear is a nice noticeable compromise.
What did you do in your garage today..?
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Relax
Well-known member
I also prefer to go up the rear before down the front. 
Fewer teeth on the front shrinks the clearance from the chain to the swingarm/pivot, which may or may not be a problem on many bikes, but definitely on some. But it is the cheaper way to go and requires no change in your chain length, which is moot since you're replacing that anyways.
Fewer teeth on the front shrinks the clearance from the chain to the swingarm/pivot, which may or may not be a problem on many bikes, but definitely on some. But it is the cheaper way to go and requires no change in your chain length, which is moot since you're replacing that anyways.
Looks like I may have family traveling to the US in the next few weeks so I'll be looking at purchasing soon for best deal.
As for going up or down with the teeth numbers.
I think I will leave it stock.
I'm ok with the current "punch" of the bike.
I also want to make it more "universal" for resale purposes.
As for going up or down with the teeth numbers.
I think I will leave it stock.
I'm ok with the current "punch" of the bike.
I also want to make it more "universal" for resale purposes.
Wheel bearing job from a few weeks ago has been brought to a conclusion. I had bought all the parts to do all of the bearings front and rear, but was planning to swap the front wheel bearings when it was time for new tires. Today being a rain day ... that was today.
I also finished fixing the air conditioning in the house (capacitor stopped capacitating, now replaced with a new one) and while I was fiddling with front wheel bearings, a chap walked up the driveway carrying a box containing new sway-bar end-links for the Chevy Bolt.
I also finished fixing the air conditioning in the house (capacitor stopped capacitating, now replaced with a new one) and while I was fiddling with front wheel bearings, a chap walked up the driveway carrying a box containing new sway-bar end-links for the Chevy Bolt.
Did you snap the old ones or just creaking?
Any compressor with a tank is good enough. Small compressors make you wait longer between uses. Hose adds tank capacity so the system runs less often than tank only (but longer each time). I have 1/4" and 3/4" hose reels in the garage and 1/4" in basement (mainly for blasting dryer lint). Most of the time, there is a single 4cfm compressor hooked up. If I need air faster, I have a few tanks, a 3 cfm compressor and a 3hp compressor that I bring online.
I'm pretty lucky as a member here gave me the wind-up reel and another member gave me a compressor that's pretty stout. shouldn't be and issue
And thanks to the members
Knocking. Common issue.
The internet forums have found some aftermarket ones that are supposedly better made, so that's what I bought. A lot of Cruze/Sonic/Trax/Spark parts are close enough to be made to work.
Relax
Well-known member
The bottleneck is usually the connectors. Use screw-in couplings wherever possible, or use quick-connectors with high flow. Also don't make the mistake of using a 1/4" hose thinking that's all you need because the ends are 1/4 NPT - that's nominal - they're actually closer to 3/8", which is why you lose power when you choke it with a 1/4" hose instead of 3/8". Also, the shorter the better.I'm pretty lucky as a member here gave me the wind-up reel and another member gave me a compressor that's pretty stout. shouldn't be and issue
And thanks to the members
I have Type V fittings as most of my quick connects. They flow a ton more than typical fittings. Typically flow about one size above (1/4" type V flows about the same as 3/8" standard).
I have the 3/4" reel as it makes a magic difference in power. 1/4" is fine for inflating tires and most nail guns (you can get ahead of it with a roofing gun) but with something like an impact gun, you'll see a 30 psi pressure drop. My 3/4" reel has a manifold and regulator at the business end so I am running full tank pressure until just before the gun. I have a 1/2" stinger I normally use as it is more flexible and convenient than connecting the gun right to the manifold (which I will do if something is being extra stubborn but I only need to do that once every few years).
Relax
Well-known member
What size fittings do you have coming out of the compressor? I'm debating whether to drill and tap mine for 3/8 instead of 1/4 NPT.
Broke open the noco battery and force charged the internal battery it lives now.
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I left 1/4" on compressors. In the hoses/pipes there is ~3 gallons of capacity at full tank pressure with a step down to ~100 psi at the manifold. The main plumbing is 3/4" copper bought when rona was going bankrupt the first time. I'm normally only using a few second hits at full flow. With a normal fitting at the business end, the difference is very noticeable but I can't notice the difference with one at the tank end. One of the tanks I use for extra capacity I plumb into the manifold so that provides another 5 gallons at line pressure right to the manifold. For high flow applications, I also plumb in additional compressors to the tank at the manifold so I have multiple fittings in parallel and no need for high flow fittings at the compressors. I normally only do that for blowing out sprinklers to speed the process.
I still need to hydro test big old tank I bought. Hopefully I get that done this summer and then get it up into the attic. It was working in it's previous application but I don't want to blow my roof off. Compressed gas is no joke. I'll hydro to 300 psi and if it doesn't leak/blow, I'll call it good enough for ~120psi air. If it fails, I'll use the new 15 gal tank I have as the main buffer tank.
Relax
Well-known member
Sadly a common problem I'm reading about with their BMS. I'm done with Noco. Gave them so many chances over the years with their jump starters, chargers, and batteries. I drank the Koolaid about their Lithium BMS, but it's worse than not having one at all - all it does is brick the battery once the voltage goes too low. I've had 2 batteries become completely unresponsive just from sitting in their boxes. Gonna return the Genius 5 charger that's too stupid to tell when a battery isn't healthy enough to hold a charge.
I think most "smart" chargers would be vastly improved if you could flip them into dumb mode. I have old dumb chargers just to get enough juice in batteries that smart chargers will try. I have a few nocos, a Ctek, a Konnwei and some old chargers. All of my "smart" chargers have some plusses and minuses. For the most part, their quest for a single button is balls. They would be much more user friendly with multiple buttons instead of short press/long press to try to cycle through modes.
Same here. Effective strategy.
Yup I have dead noco chargers and a jump pack I had given up on this battery and noco but decided to open it to see if it could come back. The bms is the problem as it is supposed to turn on when forced but doesn't. A little voltage on the battery side and everything seems to be back. Debating putting it in the Ducati as it needs a new battery but it is such a pita to change. I may add a jump wire on the outside of the battery so I can power it up if it dies again.
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Def the right call. No point in a new chain without new sprockets at that km range.
I'd say you can't go wrong with either OEM or aftermarket from a reputable source.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I reluctantly tried a Niche x-ring chain for my Vstrom (I was in a pinch) It’s got 16,000km on it now, adjusted once, no spit rings.
I’ve heard their o-ring chains are bad for spitting rings and binding, my x-ring has been as good as the oe chain so far. I think it was about $90.
Not recommending, just sharing my experience.
