Cheap saw on a stand with bad technique. He got lucky.
Just by looking at the guy's age (assuming)...that gene pool was already populated with his kids.He’s an idiot , loosing his nuts may have cleaned up the gene pool
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I had one of those saws and used it for my siding job because it wasn't worth killing a good saw for. But I gave it away because it's just too wobbly and dangerous for my type of work.Cheap saw on a stand with bad technique. He got lucky.
No fence, blade height wrong, no riving knife, pulling a short board through, saw not stable and probably a few more faux pas on his list.So instead of pushing the board through the saw it looks like he has the saw "backwards" and is pulling the board towards him through it???
If so, that ain't the saw's fault.
For sheet goods a tracksaw is awesome. If you are making a bunch of strips, nothing beats a table saw. Level plus skilsaw is a distant third.I have some more built-ins to make and I'm between a tracksaw or using my level and clamps to cut down the boards instead of a tablesaw.
For tracksaw work I built a cut table out of strips that I assemble when I need it. It sits on saw horses.I have the Kreg Accu-Cut that uses your circular saw. Sort of a poorman's tracksaw. IME it does a great job, I also have the extra "clamps" that hold it in place. I cut on an old door used as a work table. If you place a piece of scrap foam board below your cut and set the blade to not go through the foam it makes life easier. It is a perfect setup if making one or two cabinets, breaking down 4X8 sheets, trimming doors to fit, etc.
The tablesaw still has its place. Ripping thinner cuts (strips) or if I was building multiple cabinets or multiple cuts the exact same width... I would still break the boards down with the above set-up and then make final cuts on the tablesaw.
That looks lovely but is far more space and capital intensive than my needs require. For commercial use, it makes sense. Does it have a scoring blade too or just a single blade?
Scoring blade, 10' sliding table. She's nice even after 20 years of daily use.That looks lovely but is far more space and capital intensive than my needs require. For commercial use, it makes sense. Does it have a scoring blade too or just a single blade?
I've been thinking of getting one of these as a 'poor Polak's' track saw.I have the Kreg Accu-Cut that uses your circular saw. Sort of a poorman's tracksaw. IME it does a great job, I also have the extra "clamps" that hold it in place. I cut on an old door used as a work table. If you place a piece of scrap foam board below your cut and set the blade to not go through the foam it makes life easier. It is a perfect setup if making one or two cabinets, breaking down 4X8 sheets, trimming doors to fit, etc.
The tablesaw still has its place. Ripping thinner cuts (strips) or if I was building multiple cabinets or multiple cuts the exact same width... I would still break the boards down with the above set-up and then make final cuts on the tablesaw.
Clamps that stay in the track speed things up a lot.I've been thinking of getting one of these as a 'poor Polak's' track saw.
Dad has a track saw...but effing hell what a process to get that thing set up.
Ya...maybe it's just because it was my first time working on doors and the track saw system.Clamps that stay in the track speed things up a lot.
If your situation is really crap, you can even setup the tracksaw on a vertical face. I did that to cut down a cabinet to make it fit down a winding staircase. Added some dominoes and the two pieces drop together perfectly. It's technically a saw kerf shorter but that doesn't matter for my purposes.
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Decades ago I bought a 20' length of 1/4" X 4" aluminum flat bar and cut it into a few convenient pieces. With clamps, it lets me cut full sheets into sizes manageable on the table saw.For sheet goods a tracksaw is awesome. If you are making a bunch of strips, nothing beats a table saw. Level plus skilsaw is a distant third.