What did you do in your garage today..?

Also - at my cottage we've been having some leaks during rains. My usual guy has been up there several times, each time claiming he had fixed it, but taking literal months to look at things each time water came through.

So I decided to pull the plug on that guy. I'm very loyal to my guys, and he has been very good to us over the years and I consider him my friend, but I hit my limit. Had a new roofer come in who suspected a spot - the shingle was lifting up there, it as on a flattish spot near a transition in the pitch, there was a rusty nail visible and it was pretty much above where the leak was. So he suggested I go up there later with a hose, apply water to the spot, and see if it leaked.

It didn't. There was some debris on the roof a few feet away from this spot, so while I was up there I decided to sweep. I found a clean hole about the size of a toonie underneath, almost certainly from a broken tree branch. Confirmed with the same hose that water applied to it will come back out inside. So that's a win, knowing where the water is coming in from.

Tried to cover it up with duct tape as it looked like it might rain. In case anyone is interested - duct tape does not adhere to wet shingles. Put some down anyways and sat a bottle of vinegar (LOL) on it to hopefully weight it down. Don't know why I didn't think of using a brick, but by the time I had that idea it was dark. Wife doesn't like the idea of me on the roof.

Come to think of it, I'm very surprised I don't hear about trephinations by falling tree branches. I find tree branches all over my property stuck vertically in the ground and have had similar holes punched in a bunch of other stuff (lawn furniture, SUPs, etc).
 
The typical loops that go around a fastener don't need to touch to heat them up. I don't know if it's the saee for the pad style that mimics the way an induction cooktop works. Maybe someone can try lifting their pan a few mm's off the cooktop with a sheet of silicone and see if it still heats up. The free-form loop should solve that problem as it will go around the bolt, albeit around the entire fork bottom, which is why you'd want as many loops as possible to generate a strong enough field to reach the bolt from that distance.
Sounds like some voodoo magic right there! I've got to learn more about how that works. The few videos I've found, the tool looks gigantic.
 
Expanding the surrounding material will do the same thing.

It's much easier to heat the steel bolt than the heat sink that's the aluminum fork bottom. Using any kind of torch whether it's aimed at the bolt or the fork bottom will surely discolour the bottom, not something OP probably wants. That might be avoidable if the inductive heater works. If it doesn't, then he still has the option to use a reverse drill in the socket head of the bolt and worst case drill off the head the head to release tension allowing the axle to come out and the fork leg to be removed from the bike for possibly better access. Worst case scenartio, replace the fork bottom.
 
I don't mind if the bottom of the fork leg gets discoloured. Nobody's going to look there, and my bike has her share of pock marks already. Dirt on the underside isn't going to bother me.

I'm more worried that there's a chance heat could compromise the fork leg itself.
 
I don't mind if the bottom of the fork leg gets discoloured. Nobody's going to look there, and my bike has her share of pock marks already. Dirt on the underside isn't going to bother me.

I'm more worried that there's a chance heat could compromise the fork leg itself.
A wise concern. Just don't over do it. It doesn't have to be glowing red.
 
Found this broken oring on the driveway this morning so we’ll see if it turns into a busy day in the garage. Pretty much narrowed it down to either the truck or van or one of four bicycles.
This will involve standing in the garages looking around at things (which is my typical Sunday anyways).
 

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Found this broken oring on the driveway this morning so we’ll see if it turns into a busy day in the garage. Pretty much narrowed it down to either the truck or van or one of four bicycles.
This will involve standing in the garages looking around at things (which is my typical Sunday anyways).
A o-ring shouldn't be able to get free without removing the plug it is sealing. It's not tiny, fluid should be pissing with a hole that big (check fluid levels to make sure there is fluid to piss).

Imo, it's more likely to have dropped off something like a rigid wallet where it was a friction ring than a vehicle.
 
A o-ring shouldn't be able to get free without removing the plug it is sealing. It's not tiny, fluid should be pissing with a hole that big (check fluid levels to make sure there is fluid to piss).

Imo, it's more likely to have dropped off something like a rigid wallet where it was a friction ring than a vehicle.
Power washer, air shocks on bikes, lots of things it could be.
Noticed one kids helmet has a oring in the strap and the others doesn’t so maybe that’s it.
 

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...I’ve been ripped off twice now on Marketplace in a year.
Be careful.
mixed experience here. found some really good deals tho; sony a6000, rtx 3060ti from a fellow rider, ultrasonic cleaner, furniture, and other random things.

to be on topic:
I was thinking about repainting my bike then i remember how much it costs and the amount time/care/prep/materials/equipment i need to get it done VS getting a pro like john/dave connery. I go back to sweeping up the floor in the garage and take the bike for a ride. I'll do this another 5 times throughout the year until i get bored of my bike and sell it.
 
Heat makes things expand. You do NOT want to expand the bolt. You DO want to expand the material that surrounds the bolt, and is entrapping it.
The heat expansion works to break bonds caused by corrosion or thread locker so it doesn't really matter if you expand the bolt or the fork -- only thing that matters is you have enough heat to cause one of the parts to expand enough to break the bond. If the bolt is overtorques, heat wont help much as heat doesn't loosen the tension on a bolt. For that you need penetrating oil , which only works if it can penetrate down the threads.

Nuggy's problem could be corrosion or thread locker locking, overtorquing the fastener, or stripping out the fastener with the wrong size allen key (or a poor quality allen key). Heat can help wihth corrostion or thread locking -- not much ihelp f the cause is the other things.
 
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