I wanted a flag/light mount for my Zodiac but I didn't want to drill holes into my transom, so I made this out of a combination of flattened ABS pipe, and a piece of pipe with a threaded insert at the top. It slides on from the top and is held in place with the factory installed launching wheel mounting points. You can see the yellow glue at the joints.
B found an 1891 sewing machine. It was seized up solid, so after sitting with a little oil here and there, we got it to move today and started cleaning it. A lot of cool machining in this thing.
B found an 1891 sewing machine. It was seized up solid, so after sitting with a little oil here and there, we got it to move today and started cleaning it. A lot of cool machining in this thing. View attachment 75152
I tried out a “Hakko 936” soldering iron I bought NIB on Marketplace. A soldering iron is a good thing to have around, but my immediate plan for it was to use the hot tip against a seized bolt to try and free it. So I wanted to play with it and maybe solder up some connections for electrolysis/rust removal.
I don’t know anything about the brand but it comes highly recommended online. Box looked official and item looked good. I was surprised how light it was and how poorly it made it seemed. Suspected it was a fake; looked it up and sure enough, it’s a thing. I’m still flabbergasted that there’s enough of a market for counterfeiting soldering irons.
I asked the seller if he knew - ad specifically said “Hakko”. He replied with one word- “clone” and that was it.
And for some reason, I don’t see the ability to rate this seller so I can’t even tag him with a negative review. Sometimes I message a seller and I get the ability to rate without even buying anything. Don’t know what’s up with that, we exchanges like 10 messages.
This guy had a full garage of stuff for sale, all apparently brand new. Lots of Milwaukee and other apparent name brand stuff. . I assume theyre all fake. I’ve bought tons of high dollar stuff on EBay and online forums and never, ever gotten ripped off.
I’ve been ripped off twice now on Marketplace in a year.
Be careful.
I tried out a “Hakko 936” soldering iron I bought NIB on Marketplace. A soldering iron is a good thing to have around, but my immediate plan for it was to use the hot tip against a seized bolt to try and free it. So I wanted to play with it and maybe solder up some connections for electrolysis/rust removal.
I don’t know anything about the brand but it comes highly recommended online. Box looked official and item looked good. I was surprised how light it was and how poorly it made it seemed. Suspected it was a fake; looked it up and sure enough, it’s a thing. I’m still flabbergasted that there’s enough of a market for counterfeiting soldering irons.
I asked the seller if he knew - ad specifically said “Hakko”. He replied with one word- “clone” and that was it.
And for some reason, I don’t see the ability to rate this seller so I can’t even tag him with a negative review. Sometimes I message a seller and I get the ability to rate without even buying anything. Don’t know what’s up with that, we exchanges like 10 messages.
This guy had a full garage of stuff for sale, all apparently brand new. Lots of Milwaukee and other apparent name brand stuff. . I assume theyre all fake. I’ve bought tons of high dollar stuff on EBay and online forums and never, ever gotten ripped off.
I’ve been ripped off twice now on Marketplace in a year.
Be careful.
Hakko 936 has been out of production for almost 15 years. It's possible to find a new one but exceedingly unlikely.
Using the tip of a soldering iron to heat a fastener is not likely to help much. They are mostly quite low power and mostly rely on thermal mass to get the job done. When th part you're heating is more than an order of magnitude heavier than the tip, thermal mass is not in your favor. Even if yours was real, it was only 36 watts. To try your plan, you want a huge iron for soldering eves/flashing with pounds of thermal mass or maybe one of the Weller drill style that are 150-250 watts (still probably not enough).
I tried out a “Hakko 936” soldering iron I bought NIB on Marketplace. A soldering iron is a good thing to have around, but my immediate plan for it was to use the hot tip against a seized bolt to try and free it. So I wanted to play with it and maybe solder up some connections for electrolysis/rust removal.
I don’t know anything about the brand but it comes highly recommended online. Box looked official and item looked good. I was surprised how light it was and how poorly it made it seemed. Suspected it was a fake; looked it up and sure enough, it’s a thing. I’m still flabbergasted that there’s enough of a market for counterfeiting soldering irons.
I asked the seller if he knew - ad specifically said “Hakko”. He replied with one word- “clone” and that was it.
And for some reason, I don’t see the ability to rate this seller so I can’t even tag him with a negative review. Sometimes I message a seller and I get the ability to rate without even buying anything. Don’t know what’s up with that, we exchanges like 10 messages.
This guy had a full garage of stuff for sale, all apparently brand new. Lots of Milwaukee and other apparent name brand stuff. . I assume theyre all fake. I’ve bought tons of high dollar stuff on EBay and online forums and never, ever gotten ripped off.
I’ve been ripped off twice now on Marketplace in a year.
Be careful.
Sadly, buyer beware whenever dealing with anything used (or even new for that matter) where the price is too good to be true.
If I were you I'd buy a induction loop heater with a flat pad - it should heat up the steel bolt and not the aluminum fork leg, assuming you believe heating it will help get it out.
Or (theoretically) you could use a free-form loop and wrap it around the fork bottom. You want one long enough to wrap around it a few times at least. These ones, as an example, are 36" long:
Sadly, buyer beware whenever dealing with anything used (or even new for that matter) where the price is too good to be true.
If I were you I'd buy a induction loop heater with a flat pad - it should heat up the steel bolt and not the aluminum fork leg, assuming you believe heating it will help get it out.
Ooh - I like it - another rabbit hole to go down! After googling - looks like you need decent access to the fastener, which I don't really have. What would you do with those coils you show? Same idea?
I am *hopeful* heating will help under the theory that my fastener is galled.
o try your plan, you want a huge iron for soldering eves/flashing with pounds of thermal mass or maybe one of the Weller drill style that are 150-250 watts (still probably not enough).
Ah. I'd seen people talking about using soldering irons for this, but nobody seemed to mention size. I wondered whether the iron was defective (my finger can testify it gets hot), but it seems like it was just my plan.
Ooh - I like it - another rabbit hole to go down! After googling - looks like you need decent access to the fastener, which I don't really have. What would you do with those coils you show? Same idea?
The typical loops that go around a fastener don't need to touch to heat them up. I don't know if it's the saee for the pad style that mimics the way an induction cooktop works. Maybe someone can try lifting their pan a few mm's off the cooktop with a sheet of silicone and see if it still heats up. The free-form loop should solve that problem as it will go around the bolt, albeit around the entire fork bottom, which is why you'd want as many loops as possible to generate a strong enough field to reach the bolt from that distance.
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