Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 184 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

hdsomeday said:
Guess I need a better stud finder, I am getting nothing all the way across the wall. Would that because of the cement board?

I'm thinking I wouldnt be able to hit the stud (if I find it) with all three screws at each end. If I can hit with two at each end what do I use in the tile for the one (or two) that doesnt/dont hit a stud?
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Stud finder may be fooled by cement board. It is basically looking for changes in density. Studs behind cement board behind tile present a minimal change to pickup.

I'd probably use a butterfly. The right answer is probably strip wall, install plywood and start again.
 
I’ve yet to find a stud finder that actually works as advertised. Always hit and miss for the most part.

The best results for me have been with the thermal camera that I used recently. Though I doubt it would work as well through tile.

ABB4C384-81CD-4D50-BB1F-5A429EB78073.jpeg

As for me…buttoning up the basement.

D57D4C53-0F88-4D68-8D8A-C301875DF102.jpeg

And getting ready to rip Kevin’s walls because I can’t hit anything and get the screws to stick for some shelving. Need to try something different tomorrow as today I lost my patience.

DAC46F77-BB89-43E7-9A3A-E8A15208F897.jpeg

Anchors aren’t working. No studs. Anchors too long so they’re hitting the block behind the double drywall and strapping. Frak.

Looking at it now the thermal and wall picture are the same wall. Those are the strapping behind 2 layers of drywall. **** you Kevin.
 
mimico_polak said:
I’ve yet to find a stud finder that actually works as advertised. Always hit and miss for the most part.

The best results for me have been with the thermal camera that I used recently. Though I doubt it would work as well through tile.

View attachment 53086

As for me…buttoning up the basement.

View attachment 53087

And getting ready to rip Kevin’s walls because I can’t hit anything and get the screws to stick for some shelving. Need to try something different tomorrow as today I lost my patience.

View attachment 53089

Anchors aren’t working. No studs. Anchors too long so they’re hitting the block behind the double drywall and strapping. Frak.

Looking at it now the thermal and wall picture are the same wall. Those are the strapping behind 2 layers of drywall. **** you Kevin.
Click to expand...
Ahh the best part of the project is finishing it up and feeling that sense of accomplishment. (y)
I wrapped up my floor drain a couple of weeks again and everything is back to normal, feels good. Until the next project.

Curious your subfloor, no insulation, raised bubble vapour layer?
 
sburns said:
Ahh the best part of the project is finishing it up and feeling that sense of accomplishment. (y)
I wrapped up my floor drain a couple of weeks again and everything is back to normal, feels good. Until the next project.

Curious your subfloor, no insulation, raised bubble vapour layer?
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The subfloor has a styrofoam pad underneath. I find the floor quite warm from it. And it has channels for water.


Plus there is tile underneath that someone installed so that’s another layer atop the concrete slab.
 
mimico_polak said:
The subfloor has a styrofoam pad underneath. I find the floor quite warm from it. And it has channels for water.


Plus there is tile underneath that someone installed so that’s another layer atop the concrete slab.
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Ah ok was just curious, I wish I had room for Di core but I have a pretty low celing height in the basement.

What do you mean tile undernear, like a floor tile on the concrete (hopefully not vinyl tiles stuck on concrete) then Di-core on top?
 
sburns said:
Ah ok was just curious, I wish I had room for Di core but I have a pretty low celing height in the basement.

What do you mean tile undernear, like a floor tile on the concrete (hopefully not vinyl tiles stuck on concrete) then Di-core on top?
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Yes. Floor tile on concrete. We live in an area where majority of the houses have wet basements so it’s typical to have tile down there to help in case there’s a leak. Kevin had vinyl flooring on top of the tile but I removed it all and kept the tile with the dricore on top. I think it’s about 1” if that. The the engineered wood floor atop that. I find it keeps the floor warm and I don’t wear socks so it’s good. LoL
 
mimico_polak said:
I’ve yet to find a stud finder that actually works as advertised. Always hit and miss for the most part.

The best results for me have been with the thermal camera that I used recently. Though I doubt it would work as well through tile.

View attachment 53086

As for me…buttoning up the basement.

View attachment 53087

And getting ready to rip Kevin’s walls because I can’t hit anything and get the screws to stick for some shelving. Need to try something different tomorrow as today I lost my patience.

View attachment 53089

Anchors aren’t working. No studs. Anchors too long so they’re hitting the block behind the double drywall and strapping. Frak.

Looking at it now the thermal and wall picture are the same wall. Those are the strapping behind 2 layers of drywall. **** you Kevin.
Click to expand...
I found this type to work the best for me.
88N8710-franklint-stud-detector-f-01.jpg
 
Moved my WFH home office setup of 27 years so that the room could become the dedicated gym.

Moved all the exercise equipment from the random places around the house into 1 dedicated room. TV screen on wall etc.

I have my office simplified with the old paper systems of 25 years ago purged and recycled.

New office with multiple screens all set up.

Now I just need to figure out how to use these new systems for doing online meetings and presentations.

So how close in reality does the camera need to be to pick up my presentation foils on the wall?

20220125_195411.jpg
 
Not sure what happened but that link is MIGHTY long @backmarkerducati. But thank you for the response I appreciate it. That basically sums up my experience with any stud finder in my life.
 
mimico_polak said:
I’ve yet to find a stud finder that actually works as advertised. Always hit and miss for the most part.

The best results for me have been with the thermal camera that I used recently. Though I doubt it would work as well through tile.

View attachment 53086

As for me…buttoning up the basement.

View attachment 53087

And getting ready to rip Kevin’s walls because I can’t hit anything and get the screws to stick for some shelving. Need to try something different tomorrow as today I lost my patience.

View attachment 53089

Anchors aren’t working. No studs. Anchors too long so they’re hitting the block behind the double drywall and strapping. Frak.

Looking at it now the thermal and wall picture are the same wall. Those are the strapping behind 2 layers of drywall. **** you Kevin.
Click to expand...
Odds are, from your other posts, you have Rock Lath walls which were a transition between old school slat plaster and drywall as we know it today. I have never seen a stub finder that can go through this at any price point. Lots of claims and lots of failures, false positives, false negatives..... It is about 3/4" in total depth, gypsum boards that are usually ~18" X 48", scratch coat over this which is a concrete like mixture (the main problem), then plaster over that. That scratch coat eats tools and it is too dense for stud finders. Then if Kevin added more drywall on top....

ALL stud finders fail.
I also tried a metal detector for the nails, fail.

Your thermal camera works for exterior walls, if there was/is a wood burning fireplace you may see some ash ghosting on the straps for exterior walls. Sometimes you can actually see the joints between the gypsum boards with lighting on an angle to get a reference point. My best technique so far for all walls, take your best shot at finding a location based on the above or just logic, drill a very small hole, if you do not hit wood take a bent wire and insert it, spin it and see if it hits a stud/strap, rinse and repeat. May not work on the exerior for you if there is "that foam" in the wall as there will be no void to spin the wire, maybe just a series of very small holes.... Once you find one it is easy to find the others every 16". Small holes are easy to fill and touch up and can be low on the wall out of site.

For reference here is a cross section. This one is from an exterior wall so it is also foil backed. Left to right, surface plaster, concrete like scratch coat, plaster board, foil.... No foil on interior walls.

20220126_081419.jpg
 
@hdsomeday , for your grab bars if you measure out from a corner there is 'usually' a stud at 16" from the corner . The guys doing it for a living are using toggler zip anchors and the #12 screws in the bar kit. They do not always hit a stud, but I'm told they drill through the tile face where ever the bar makes sense and also put a BIG wad of silicone on the bar fitting, after 24hrs you need to actually pull tile off the wall as well as pull out any anchor. 12x24 tile well adhered would need a few hundred pounds of pull to remove it .
 
nobbie48 said:
I tried a decent sized neo magnet on my plaster / gypsum board walls and the magnet actually sticks to the nails. I can actually lay out the gypsom panels by the nail pattern. Holding a scrap of drywall against the wall still gives me a pull but its very slight and iffy.
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I cut the drywall anchor by 1/4” (dads idea) and they gripped properly and fit between the drywall/gypsom and the block.

Issue was they were too long and the gap was too small so they kept pushing out each time I tried to screw them in.

1643247412437.png
 
crankcall said:
You fix that with tapcons , right through into the block . Paint the blue heads black


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If it wasn’t for my dads suggestion to shorten the drywall anchors…I would’ve tossed those shelves out the window.
 
Those pan/ wall systems have really made the process faster and better . My last shower base weighed 100 lbs . That looks better .


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